Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

More fabrics are made with plain weave than any
other weave. These include such well-known fabrics as
gauze and chiffon (sheer), gingham, chambray (shirting/
blouse weight), taffeta and chintz (medium weight), and
burlap and canvas (heavier weight).
In plain weave, each warp yarn passes alternately
over one and then under one filling yarn, for the whole
length of the fabric. Two adjacent warp yarns interlace
exactly opposite. One warp yarn goes under the same
filling yarn that the next warp yarn goes over. The third
and fourth warp yarns weave the same as the first and
second, respectively (see Figure 5.8a and b).
As shown in Figure 5.8 each filling yarn passes
alternately over one and then under one warp yarn, for
the full width of the fabric. Two succeeding filling yarns
weave exactly opposite. When one filling yarn passes
over a warp yarn, the next filling yarn passes under the
filling yarns
plain weave
warp yarns
Figure 5.8
(a) Plain weave and (b) plain weave on graph paper.
a
b
FABRIC SCIENCE
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same warp yarn. The third and fourth filling yarns weave
the same as the first and second. The plain weave, therefore,
makes one complete cycle on two ends and two
picks. By definition, we say the repeat of this weave is
on two ends and two picks. More complex weaves have
larger repeats.
Plain-weave fabrics require only two harnesses to
weave the body of the fabric (excluding the selvage)
because the weave repeats every two ends. One harness
controls half the warp yarns (1, 3, 5, etc.), and the second
harness controls the other warp yarns (2, 4, 6, etc.).
When one harness is raised, the other is lowered, and
then the sequence is reversed for the next pick.
Plain-weave fabrics have firm constructions. They
tend to wear well and ravel less than comparable fabrics
of other weaves. Because the surface is plain, it offers
a good background for printed and decorative designs.
Plain-weave fabrics tend to wrinkle more than fabrics
of other weaves. Frequent interlacing does not allow
the yarns to move in the fabric to relieve stress from the
bent fibers. A high number of interlacings also results in
less bias stretch. Plain weaves usually have little surface
interest unless colored yarns are used to make designs
(for example, a plaid) or special yarns or finishes are
used to produce texture.
The tearing strength of a plain weave is lower
than that of any other weave. Because this weave has
no floats, when tearing a plain-weave fabric, the yarns
break one at a time. When tearing other woven fabrics,
however, the yarns shift and bunch together from the
tearing force being exerted. The fabric tearing strength
of such fabrics is higher because several yarns must be
torn simultaneously instead of only one at a time.
Ribbed Plain Weave
A fabric with a plain weave may have a ribbed surface.
The rib is produced because the filling yarns are thicker
than the warp yarns. The rib can be very pronounced,
as in a bengaline or ottoman fabric; easily visible, as
in a faille or poplin fabric; or less noticeable, as in a
broadcloth or taffeta. The rib, however, can always be
detected by running a fingernail up and down the fabric.
Although rib effects are popular, they can have
problems. The filling yarns that form the ribs may have
been made bulky by having little twist and/or short staple
fibers. Because wear occurs mainly on the top of the
ribs, if the heavy filling yarns are not well protected by
the set of thinner warp yarns, the fabric will not wear
well because the heavy yarns will abrade quickly.
Ribbed fabrics with thin warp yarns and fine ribs
possess better drape and a smoother surface, and fabrics