Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

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More fabrics are made with plain weave than any other weave. These include such well-known fabrics as gauze and chiffon (sheer), gingham, chambray (shirting/ blouse weight), taffeta and chintz (medium weight), and burlap and canvas (heavier weight). In plain weave, each warp yarn passes alternately over one and then under one filling yarn, for the whole length of the fabric. Two adjacent warp yarns interlace exactly opposite. One warp yarn goes under the same filling yarn that the next warp yarn goes over. The third and fourth warp yarns weave the same as the first and second, respectively (see Figure 5.8a and b). As shown in Figure 5.8 each filling yarn passes alternately over one and then under one warp yarn, for the full width of the fabric. Two succeeding filling yarns weave exactly opposite. When one filling yarn passes over a warp yarn, the next filling yarn passes under the filling yarns plain weave warp yarns Figure 5.8 (a) Plain weave and (b) plain weave on graph paper. a b FABRIC SCIENCE A 98 F same warp yarn. The third and fourth filling yarns weave the same as the first and second. The plain weave, therefore, makes one complete cycle on two ends and two picks. By definition, we say the repeat of this weave is on two ends and two picks. More complex weaves have larger repeats. Plain-weave fabrics require only two harnesses to weave the body of the fabric (excluding the selvage) because the weave repeats every two ends. One harness controls half the warp yarns (1, 3, 5, etc.), and the second harness controls the other warp yarns (2, 4, 6, etc.). When one harness is raised, the other is lowered, and then the sequence is reversed for the next pick. Plain-weave fabrics have firm constructions. They tend to wear well and ravel less than comparable fabrics of other weaves. Because the surface is plain, it offers a good background for printed and decorative designs. Plain-weave fabrics tend to wrinkle more than fabrics of other weaves. Frequent interlacing does not allow the yarns to move in the fabric to relieve stress from the bent fibers. A high number of interlacings also results in less bias stretch. Plain weaves usually have little surface interest unless colored yarns are used to make designs (for example, a plaid) or special yarns or finishes are used to produce texture. The tearing strength of a plain weave is lower than that of any other weave. Because this weave has no floats, when tearing a plain-weave fabric, the yarns break one at a time. When tearing other woven fabrics, however, the yarns shift and bunch together from the tearing force being exerted. The fabric tearing strength of such fabrics is higher because several yarns must be torn simultaneously instead of only one at a time. Ribbed Plain Weave A fabric with a plain weave may have a ribbed surface. The rib is produced because the filling yarns are thicker than the warp yarns. The rib can be very pronounced, as in a bengaline or ottoman fabric; easily visible, as in a faille or poplin fabric; or less noticeable, as in a broadcloth or taffeta. The rib, however, can always be detected by running a fingernail up and down the fabric. Although rib effects are popular, they can have problems. The filling yarns that form the ribs may have been made bulky by having little twist and/or short staple fibers. Because wear occurs mainly on the top of the ribs, if the heavy filling yarns are not well protected by the set of thinner warp yarns, the fabric will not wear well because the heavy yarns will abrade quickly. Ribbed fabrics with thin warp yarns and fine ribs possess better drape and a smoother surface, and fabrics
with large ribs possess an uneven surface and more body. Sometimes, the ribbed fabrics are also called unbalanced fabrics because the sizes of the warp and filling yarns, as well as the number of ends and picks per inch within the fabric, are greatly different from one another. Ribbed fabrics can also be made with a rib weave— a variation of a plain weave. The weave creates ribs in either the warp or filling direction when two or more yarns interlace in the same sequence. A warp rib creates a rib across the fabric in the width direction (ribs). A filling rib creates a rib in the warp or length direction (cords). Examples of ribbed fabric include grosgrain and repp, among others. Basket Weave A major plain-weave variation is the basket weave. Basket weaves are made by having groups of two or more warp yarns interlacing as one yarn with groups of two or more filling yarns that also interlace as one yarn. The groups of yarns interlace in plain-weave sequence. <strong>Fabrics</strong> with basket weaves are reversible unless the finish or print makes one side the face. Two well-known fabrics made with basket weave are monk’s cloth and hopsacking. The two-by-two (2 × 2) basket weave is the most common. In this weave, the warp yarns in pairs interlace in plain-weave sequence with the filling yarns in pairs. (See Figures 5.9a and b.) The weave repeats on four ends and four picks and requires two harnesses to make. Basket weave is a decorative weave. Most basketweave fabrics are made with relatively few yarns per inch and frequently with low-twist yarns to increase the weave effect. Thus, these types of fabric tend not to be durable and easily shrink when washed. They are frequently difficult to sew because the yarns can move easily; this also causes the fabric to lose its shape. Twill Weave Twill weaves (Figure 5.10) produce diagonal lines on the cloth. In a right-hand twill, the diagonals run upward to the right; in a left-hand twill, the lines run upward to the left. The direction of the twill on the back of the cloth is opposite to the twill line on the face. Some well-known twill weave fabrics are denim, gabardine, serge, and chino. There are many twill weaves. The simplest is a 2 — 1 twill (referred to as two up, one down) or a 1 — 2 twill (one up, two down), which repeat on three ends and three picks. (Only three harnesses are required for body of the cloth.) Most twills are made on fewer than six harnesses. WOVEN FABRICS A 99 F Figure 5.9 (a) A 2 × 2 basket weave and (b) a 2 × 2 basket weave on graph paper. b a b Figure 5.10 Denim twill weave (a) back and (b) face. In a 3 — 1 twill (three up, one down), each warp yarn passes over three filling yarns and then under one filling yarn. The warp is on the face three times more than the filling, forming a warp-face twill. In a 1 — 3 twill (one up, three down), the warp passes over one filling yarn and then under three filling yarns, to produce a fillingface twill. A 2 — 2 twill has both warp and filling showing to the same extent on the face, and it is known as a balanced twill. A balanced fabric would have about the same size and number of warp and filling yarns per inch. a a b
Page 2 and 3: j.j. pizzuto’s FABRIC SCIENCE ten
Page 4 and 5: Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias
Page 6 and 7: Preface xv Acknowledgments xvii 1 T
Page 8 and 9: Secondary Manufactured Fibers for C
Page 10 and 11: 7 Other Types of Textiles 147 Objec
Page 12 and 13: Nonhazardous 224 Recycling 224 Work
Page 14 and 15: Fabric Performance Testing 316 Text
Page 17 and 18: air-jet bare elastic yarn blended y
Page 19 and 20: Identifying Spun and Filament Yarns
Page 21 and 22: Uses of Spun and Filament Yarns Som
Page 23 and 24: Fabrics made from worsted yarn are
Page 25 and 26: this system, one end of a fiber is
Page 27 and 28: textured yarn a b heater c d high p
Page 29 and 30: Table 4.1 Comparison oF sTreTCh Yar
Page 31 and 32: warp yarn Figure 4.14 Making chenil
Page 33 and 34: Table 4.2 Yarn number Conversions W
Page 35 and 36: Table 4.4 Thread Finishes and Their
Page 37: FABRIC SCIENCE / Swatch Kit Assignm
Page 40 and 41: Over 4,000 years ago, man created f
Page 42 and 43: yarn package yarn package yarn pack
Page 44 and 45: Figure 5.5 Various types of selvage
Page 46 and 47: the same appearance as when the fab
Page 50 and 51: Most twills are either warp face or
Page 52 and 53: Figure 5.15 (a) Five-shaft warp-fac
Page 54 and 55: Figure 5.18 Filling-pile weave fabr
Page 56 and 57: Sometimes the pile loops are cut in
Page 58 and 59: light-pattern changes to create a r
Page 60 and 61: A product that can be considered as
Page 62 and 63: Glossary of Classic Woven Fabrics A
Page 64 and 65: Frieze: Heavy, thick, rough-surface
Page 66 and 67: Taffeta: Medium-weight, plain-weave

Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

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