Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

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Figure 5.15 (a) Five-shaft warp-face satin weave; (b) five-shaft filling-face satin weave; (c) five-shaft warp-face satin weave on graph paper; and (d) five-shaft filling face satin weave on graph paper. end uses that are not subject to hard wear, such as evening dresses, fine lingerie, and draperies. Under certain conditions, however, good abrasion resistance and strength can occur in satin-weave fabrics. The long floats found in this weave enable the yarns to slide under one another, thus allowing more yarns per inch than if woven with shorter floats or none at all. If the fabric is made with a very large number of yarns per inch, an extremely durable fabric results because the fiber is very dense. With yarns tightly packed, and using spun yarns, snagging is not a serious problem. Examples of several of these fabrics, which also have satisfactory drapability, are the sateen materials used for military combat uniforms frequently used for camouflage. Which Weave Makes the Strongest Fabric? Weaves with long floats produce the strongest fabric because these fabrics can be made with the greatest number of yarns per inch. Figure 5.16a shows the yarns at the edge of fabric with a weave that has no floats. Figure 5.16b shows the yarns at the edge of a fabric with a weave FABRIC SCIENCE A 102 F a b c that does have floats. In Figure 5.16a the filling yarn is interlacing with six yarns, whereas in Figure 5.16b the filling is interlacing with eight yarns. Thus, satin-weave fabric is the strongest because it can be made with the most yarns per inch since it has the fewest interlacings. a b Figure 5.16 Weave influence on maximum yarns per inch of a fabric. Notice that illustration b has fewer interlacings and therefore more yarns per inch. d
Special Fabric Weaves Various special fabric weaves besides the basic weaves are also used. Three of the most common special weaves are leno weave, pile weave, and weaves that make a double cloth. Leno Weave In the simplest leno weave, the warp yarns twist back and forth in pairs around each pick, firmly holding the filling yarn in the figure-eight loops formed. Because the filling yarns are firmly held in place, they cannot shift in the warp direction (Figure 5.17). However, the warp yarns can shift in the filling direction. Adhesive may be used in finishing leno fabrics to cement the yarn in place to further reduce slippage. In counting yarns per inch in leno weave, the two warp yarns that twist to form a loop for the filling count as two separate yarns. They do not form a ply yarn. These yarns twisting identify this as a leno fabric. Leno weave is especially useful for reducing yarn slippage in fabrics that require yarns spaced far apart. It has greater firmness and strength than plain weave of the same low cloth count. The construction is used in mosquito netting, sheer curtains (e.g., marquisette), and some summer apparel fabrics in open and see-through constructions. It is used for industrial purposes and as packaging for fruits and vegetables. It is also used to make chenille yarns (see p. 80). Pile Weaves <strong>Woven</strong>-pile fabrics are material with a raised hairlike or furlike surface. Two well-known fabrics with such a surface are velvet and terry cloth. The surface is produced with an extra set of yarns (warp or filling) known as pile yarns. Thus, pile fabrics have the regular warp yarns and filling yarns (called ground yarns) that are common to Figure 5.17 Leno weave. Notice how each pair of warp yarns twists to hold the filling yarns. WOVEN FABRICS A 103 F all wovens, plus an additional set of yarns to create the pile surface. There are two basic types of pile-weave fabrics: the warp-pile fabrics, which have an extra set of warp yarns, and the filling-pile fabrics, which have an extra set of filling yarns. When the pile yarns are cut, the resulting fabric is referred to as a cut-pile weave fabric. These yarns are cut between interlacings to form many cut ends, which point up on the surface of the cloth and form the pile. If the pile yarns are not cut, an uncut-pile weave fabric is produced. (See Figure 5.18.) Velvet is an example of a cut warp-pile weave fabric, and terry cloth is an example of an uncut warp-pile weave fabric. (See Figure 5.19.) Filling-pile weave fabrics, such as corduroy and velveteen, are always cut. A napped fabric is different from a pile fabric. Nap is a fibrous surface produced by brushing up fibers on the cloth during a textile finishing process. (See p. 205.) Extra yarns are not used to produce the surface effect. When warp yarns are removed from corduroy or velveteen fabrics, they are covered with short lengths of fibers. The same occurs with filling yarns removed from velvet. The pieces of pile yarns that were cut cling to the yarns that were removed. Cut-Pile <strong>Fabrics</strong> Cut-pile fabrics are cut on the face after the fabric is completely woven. Two methods are used for making cut-warp pile fabrics. In one method, a double cloth is woven (see p. 106) with pile yarns interlacing between and connecting the two fabrics. The completed double cloth is cut into two fabrics by cutting the interlacing warp yarns. These cut yarns form the pile for each of the resulting fabrics. In the second method, after a number of filling yarns have been inserted, a special rod with a blade at one end is interlaced instead of a filling yarn. The harnesses operate so that only pile warp yarns pass over the rod. After several more filling yarns have been
Page 2 and 3: j.j. pizzuto’s FABRIC SCIENCE ten
Page 4 and 5: Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias
Page 6 and 7: Preface xv Acknowledgments xvii 1 T
Page 8 and 9: Secondary Manufactured Fibers for C
Page 10 and 11: 7 Other Types of Textiles 147 Objec
Page 12 and 13: Nonhazardous 224 Recycling 224 Work
Page 14 and 15: Fabric Performance Testing 316 Text
Page 17 and 18: air-jet bare elastic yarn blended y
Page 19 and 20: Identifying Spun and Filament Yarns
Page 21 and 22: Uses of Spun and Filament Yarns Som
Page 23 and 24: Fabrics made from worsted yarn are
Page 25 and 26: this system, one end of a fiber is
Page 27 and 28: textured yarn a b heater c d high p
Page 29 and 30: Table 4.1 Comparison oF sTreTCh Yar
Page 31 and 32: warp yarn Figure 4.14 Making chenil
Page 33 and 34: Table 4.2 Yarn number Conversions W
Page 35 and 36: Table 4.4 Thread Finishes and Their
Page 37: FABRIC SCIENCE / Swatch Kit Assignm
Page 40 and 41: Over 4,000 years ago, man created f
Page 42 and 43: yarn package yarn package yarn pack
Page 44 and 45: Figure 5.5 Various types of selvage
Page 46 and 47: the same appearance as when the fab
Page 48 and 49: More fabrics are made with plain we
Page 50 and 51: Most twills are either warp face or
Page 54 and 55: Figure 5.18 Filling-pile weave fabr
Page 56 and 57: Sometimes the pile loops are cut in
Page 58 and 59: light-pattern changes to create a r
Page 60 and 61: A product that can be considered as
Page 62 and 63: Glossary of Classic Woven Fabrics A
Page 64 and 65: Frieze: Heavy, thick, rough-surface
Page 66 and 67: Taffeta: Medium-weight, plain-weave

Woven Fabrics - Fairchild Books

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