BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine
BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine
BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine
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<strong>BUYING</strong> I <strong>GUIDE</strong><br />
Champagne may be the exception. Imported by<br />
Terlato <strong>Wine</strong>s International. —R.V.<br />
95<br />
Deutz 2000 L’Amour de Deutz<br />
Brut (Champagne); $NA. Elegance<br />
and finesse mark this beautiful wine. It has a tight<br />
minerality to go with white fruits, crisp apple<br />
juice, a hint of yeast and the purest acidity. With<br />
this structure, it should age gracefully for many<br />
years. Imported by Maisons Marques &<br />
Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />
95<br />
Louis Roederer 2003 Blanc de<br />
Blancs Brut (Champagne); $69. A<br />
rich Chardonnay, full of white fruits and the merest<br />
touch of toast and yeast. It is ripe, full in the<br />
mouth, but never loses sight of pure elegance. A<br />
great success in balancing freshness and richness<br />
from this hot vintage. Imported by Maisons Marques<br />
& Domaines USA. —R.V.<br />
95<br />
Louis Roederer 2004 Vintage Brut<br />
(Champagne); $67. A great celebration<br />
of the fine 2004 vintage, this wine reveals<br />
both generosity and a steely resolve. It has a cool<br />
elegance as well, giving it a sense of refinement,<br />
while still preserving the Roederer richness. The<br />
tight acidity holds the wine together and promises<br />
long aging. Imported by Maisons Marques &<br />
Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />
95<br />
Moët & Chandon 2000 Dom<br />
Pérignon Brut (Champagne); $NA.<br />
Nutty and toasty, this is already maturing. It has a<br />
ripe, soft texture, deliciously balanced between<br />
acidity, grapefruit and riper peach flavors. It feels<br />
sumptuous, rich and certainly ready to drink.<br />
Imported by Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.<br />
94<br />
Moët & Chandon 2002 Grand Vintage<br />
Brut (Champagne); $NA. In<br />
acknowledgement of the superior quality of 2002,<br />
Moët has released this wine well after the 2003.<br />
The decision is fully justified, for this is still<br />
young. It is impressive, intensely concentrated,<br />
mineral, showing tight grapefruit and apple flavors.<br />
Excellent aging potential. Imported by<br />
Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.<br />
94<br />
Taittinger 2004 Brut Millesimé<br />
(Champagne); $80. A wonderfully<br />
toasty, yeasty wine, with creamed apple fruits, flavors<br />
that show some softness but never deviate<br />
from a crisp, steely character. Although this wine<br />
is ready to drink, consider keeping for 3–4 years.<br />
Imported by Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />
93<br />
Gosset 2000 Grand Millésime Brut<br />
(Champagne); $90. A soft and beauti-<br />
fully ripe Champagne, albeit with a steely, mineral<br />
core. It is very much in the Gosset pure, dry<br />
style, full of apple and grapefruit acidity to go<br />
with a light yeast character. Unlike some 2000s,<br />
this should age well. Imported by Palm Bay<br />
International. —R.V.<br />
93<br />
Perrier Jouët 2002 Fleur de Champagne<br />
Brut (Champagne); $139.<br />
With its distinctive flower bottle, this is an immediately<br />
recognizable Champagne, both in its looks<br />
and its distinctive Perrier-Jouët elegance. Lively<br />
white fruits play with acidity and a tangy backbone<br />
of apple skins. Age this for 4–5 years and<br />
maybe more. Imported by Pernod Ricard. Cellar<br />
Selection. —R.V.<br />
93<br />
Philipponnat 2004 Grand Brut<br />
Blanc (Champagne); $80. This wine<br />
is on the dry side of Brut. It is rich, at the same<br />
time crisp with a delicious creamed pear and<br />
apple flavor, lifted even further by pineapple<br />
acidity. Congratulations to Philipponnat for indicating<br />
disgorgement date and even the dosage on<br />
the back label. Imported by Ex-Cellars <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Agencies, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />
92<br />
Drappier 2002 Millésime Exception<br />
Brut (Champagne); $NA. This<br />
is a balanced wine, moving easily between rich<br />
fruit and a tight mineral and grapefruit texture.<br />
There is a hint of toast to give extra weight. Worth<br />
aging for several years. Imported by A. Hardy<br />
USA. —R.V.<br />
92<br />
Drappier 2004 Grande Sendrée<br />
Brut (Champagne); $NA. Warm and<br />
rich, even if still young, this is a rounded Champagne,<br />
full of ripe apple and spice, pink grapefruit,<br />
lined with intense acidity. Because it is still<br />
so young, it needs several years’ aging. Imported<br />
by A. Hardy USA. —R.V.<br />
92<br />
Lallier 2002 Millésime Grand Cru<br />
(Champagne); $75. A rich wine, with<br />
delicious cream and apple flavors, lifted by fine<br />
acidity. It is opulent, packed with apricot and light<br />
honey character encased in a dry, mineral framework.<br />
Imported by Massanois Imports. —R.V.<br />
92<br />
Laurent-Perrier 2000 Brut Millésimé<br />
(Champagne); $69. A soft,<br />
ripe Champagne, as befits the year. Attractive<br />
apples, spice and toast go beautifully with sweet<br />
1 2 | W I N E E N T H U S I A S T | D E C E M B E R 1 , 2 0 1 0<br />
THE WINE ENTHUSIAST<br />
<strong>BUYING</strong> <strong>GUIDE</strong><br />
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new<br />
releases and selected older wines evaluated by <strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Enthusiast</strong><br />
<strong>Magazine</strong>’s editors and other qualified tasters. On a regular<br />
basis the Buying Guide includes reports on special<br />
tastings and the wines of specific producers. Regular contributors<br />
to our Buying Guide include Senior Editor/ Tasting<br />
Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren<br />
Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Contributing<br />
Editor Michael Schachner and Contributing Reviewer Jean<br />
Reilly in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux,<br />
Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, Contributing<br />
Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland and Contributing Editor<br />
Paul Gregutt in Seattle. If a wine was evaluated by a single<br />
reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note.<br />
When no initials appear, the wine was evaluated by two or<br />
more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the<br />
input of all tasters.<br />
Each review contains a score, the full name of the wine,<br />
its suggested national retail price, and a tasting note. If price<br />
cannot be confirmed, $NA (not available) will be printed.<br />
Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.<br />
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS<br />
Tastings are conducted individually or in a group setting and<br />
performed blind or in accordance with accepted industry<br />
practices. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible,<br />
wines considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.<br />
ABOUT THE SCORES<br />
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular wine.<br />
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying<br />
tasting note to learn about a wine’s special characteristics.<br />
Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality.<br />
Superb 94–97: A great achievement.<br />
Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended.<br />
Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended.<br />
Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption;<br />
often good value.<br />
Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, lesscritical<br />
circumstances.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed.<br />
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS<br />
Editors’ Choice wines are those that offer excellent quality<br />
at a price above our Best Buy range, or a wine at any price<br />
with unique qualities that merit special attention.<br />
Cellar Selections are wines deemed highly collectible<br />
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar<br />
to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation<br />
does not mean that a wine must be stored to be<br />
enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more<br />
enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring<br />
will be indicated.<br />
Best Buys are wines that offer a high level of quality in<br />
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae<br />
for determining Best Buys, but they are generally<br />
priced at $15 or less.<br />
SUBMITTING WINES FOR REVIEW<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing<br />
location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via<br />
winemag.com/contact. Inquiries should be addressed to<br />
Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo at 914.345.8463 or<br />
email tastings@wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for<br />
submitting wines. We make every effort to taste all wines<br />
submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all wines<br />
submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the<br />
magazine. All wines must be accompanied by a submission<br />
form, which may be downloaded from our Web site.<br />
LABELS<br />
Labels are paid promotions. <strong>Wine</strong>ries and winery<br />
representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels,<br />
which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes<br />
and scores. For information on label purchases, contact<br />
Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or<br />
email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net.<br />
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at<br />
buyingguide.winemag.com