BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING I GUIDE
93
Boroli 2006 Cerequio (Barolo);
$80. Boroli is a young and dynamic winery
to watch. This Barolo from the gorgeous
Cerequio cru is ripe with traditional aromas of
wild berry, leather, soft spice and white truffle.
Extra character is added by slightly oddball aromas
of carrot and smoked ham that work overall
to the wine’s favor. Drink after 2015. Imported
by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L.
93
Brezza 2006 Bricco Sarmassa
(Barolo); $NA. Thanks to its plush and
velvety nature, this is a wine with universal
appeal. Barolo Bricco Sarmassa opens in big
fashion with aromas of black cherry, Indian
spice, vanilla and dark espresso bean. It’s tight
and tannic in the mouth but, fundamentally,
the wine’s saving grace is that it’s never too
extracted or overblown. Imported by Admiralty
Beverage. —M.L.
93
Cascina Adelaide 2006 Preda
(Barolo); $88. Cascina Adelaide always
stands out in a crowd of Barolos thanks to the
overall intensity of its Nebbiolo characteristics.
Thanks to careful winemaking techniques, Preda
takes that extra step: the fruit is brighter here and
the spice notes are noticeably more piquant.
You’ll also taste fine mineral notes, violets and
green olive. Imported by Tesori Wines. —M.L.
93
Castello di Verduno 2006 Massara
(Barolo); $75. Massara is textbook
Barolo with elegant and ethereal layers of wild
berry fruit, underbrush, hazelnut, cola, tar and
licorice. The finish is characterized by bright
acidity and fine, polished tannins. Pair this
wine with any dish that includes wild mushrooms
or truffles. Imported by Oliver McCrum
Wines. —M.L.
93
Cavallotto 2006 Bricco Boschis
(Barolo); $NA. From the Bricco
Boschis cru in Castiglione Falletto, this luminous
Barolo offers pretty elements of wild berry, forest
floor, leather, tar, licorice and eucalyptus. There’s
loads of power and personality here and the
mouthfeel is elegant and long lasting. Drink after
2018. —M.L.
93
Ceretto 2005 Bricco Rocche Prapó
(Barolo); $88. From iron-rich soils, this
expression of Barolo offers elegant mineral tones
and slate backed by plump aromas of blackberry,
currant, cola, leather, spice and smoked cedar
wood. There’s also an attractive floral note at the
back. The wine offers notably fine textured tannins,
with a smooth and polished feel. Imported
by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L.
93
Ciabot Berton 2006 Ciabot Berton
(Barolo); $80. This is a lovely Barolo
with oak-driven aromas of vanilla and sweet spice
between delicate layers of rose, tar and wild
berry. There’s plenty of tasty pulp and substance
backed by tight tannins that will undoubtedly
relax with more time in the bottle. Cellar age this
wine five to ten more years. Imported by Superior
Wines LLC. —M.L.
93
Damilano 2006 Brunate (Barolo);
$NA. The beautiful Brunate cru is
known for heavier, darker expressions of Nebbiolo
and this wine does a wonderful job of showing
off its territorial traits. Aromas here include coffee,
hazelnut, wild berries, tar, leather and exotic
spice. It’s balanced and firm and will surely evolve
favorably over the next decade. Imported by Vias
Imports. —M.L.
93
E. Pira e Figli (Chiara Boschis)
2006 Cannubi (Barolo); $95. Here
is a beautifully extracted and voluptuous Barolo
from the Cannubi cru that would pair with tender
veal shank, slow cooked until falling off the
bone. Black cherry, spice, root beer and fragrant
earthy tones all appear on the nose and the wine
closes with tight, firm structure. Cellar age ten
years or more. Imported by Indigenous Selections.
—M.L.
93
Enzo Boglietti 2006 Case Nere
(Barolo); $NA. Barolo Case Nere from
La Morra opens with extremely dark and concentrated
extraction followed by young oak-related
aromas of spice, leather and tobacco. But, thanks
to the bright fruit notes at the back—blueberry,
cassis and pomegranate—those toasted notes will
fade further into the background as the wine
evolves in time. Imported by Cutting Edge Selections.
—M.L.
93
Francesco Sobrero 2006 Ciabot
Tanasio (Barolo); $NA. Francesco
Sobrero is an up and coming wine star in the Italian
media. Indeed, this is a fascinating wine that
offers a unique glimpse into Barolo typicity. This
is a wine with a holistic approach: the spice and
fruit notes are well integrated and the wine offers
aged aromas of earth, leather and root beer. It’s
definitely worth a peek. —M.L.
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93
Fratelli Alessandria 2006 Monvigliero
(Barolo); $67. Fratelli
Alessandria’s flagship Barolo opens with pretty
spice nuances followed by cherry, blueberry and
loads of buoyant fruit. This is a happy, cheerful
wine with a vertical lift and tonic notes of eucalyptus
and root beer. The tannins are drying and
fine. Drink after 2018. Imported by Villa
Italia. —M.L.
93
Fratelli Casetta 2004 Riserva
(Barolo); $NA. This Riserva Barolo
from the La Morra subzone opens with a surprisingly
bright and concentrated color, followed by
rich aromas of cherry, black fruit, exotic spice and
smoke. There are dusty layers of crushed stone as
well and the wine fades long with polished tannins.
Imported by Sober LLC. —M.L.
93
Giacosa Fratelli 2006 Vigna Mandorlo
(Barolo); $75. Sassy spice and
piquant touches of furniture wax, root beer, wild
berries, licorice and white truffle open the nose
of this vineyard-designate Barolo. In general, the
spice aromas stand out most and the wine is
squeaky-polished in the mouth. Drink after 2015.
Imported by Bedford International. —M.L.
93
Gianfranco Alessandria 2006
(Barolo); $NA. This is a lovely wine
with a generous disposition and intense aromas
of forest fruit, nutmeg, clove, anise seed and
licorice. In the mouth, it boasts a broad, round
feel with a long, velvety finish. Pair this wine
with thin slices of grilled steak topped with
porcini mushrooms. Imported by T. Edward
Wines Ltd. —M.L.
93
Gianni Gagliardo 2006 Serre
(Barolo); $75. Gianni Gagliardo’s
Barolo Serre is an impressively delicate wine with
layers of wild berry, red rose, pressed violets,
smoke and mineral. The mouthfeel is fresh, tannic,
clean and very long lasting. This classic
expression of Nebbiolo shows the best qualities of
this noble Italian variety. Imported by Enotec
Imports, Inc. —M.L.
93
Giovanni Rosso 2006 Cerretta
(Barolo); $55. Barolo Cerretta is a
cheerful and friendly wine with defined aromas of
cherry, wild berry, dusty mineral, bright spice,
root beer and ground ginger. This wine is built to
last and will age gracefully ten years or more.
Imported by Massanois Imports. —M.L.