BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING I GUIDE
Merlot. Imported by Moët Hennessy
USA. —M.S.
88
Arboleda 2007 Merlot (Aconcagua
Valley); $19. Powerful, driving Merlot
with spice, cherry, herbal olive notes and some
meatiness to the bouquet. The palate is racy and
forward, with cherry-berry flavors, cola, mocha
and oak notes on the finish. A solid, strong-boned
wine. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. —M.S.
87
Montes 2007 Alpha Merlot (Colchagua
Valley); $24. Warm, rubbery
berry aromas mixed with smoked meat and
herbal accents make for a solid nose, and while
the palate has clampy acidity and herbal notes,
there’s ample body, roundness and berry fruit to
bring it home. Both leafy and candied on the finish.
Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
87
Viña Bisquertt 2007 Ecos de Rulo
Merlot (Colchagua Valley); $18.
Leafy and leathery to start, with olive, prune and
herb aromas filling in the fabric. The palate has a
fleshy, fairly tannic grab but the flavors are round
and full, with a tack toward blackberry. Mildly
herbal on the finish, which is par for the course
with Chilean Merlot. Imported by Prescott
Wines. —M.S.
87
Viña Casablanca 2008 Cefiro
Reseva Merlot (Maipo Valley);
$10. Licorice, mint leaf, black pepper and a hint
of tomato define the nose, while the palate has a
regular, lightly choppy feel along with flavors of
olive, herbal berry fruit and pepper. Dry and
smooth on the finish, with lightness and good balance.
Good Merlot for the price. Imported by
Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
86
Arboleda 2008 Merlot (Aconcagua
Valley); $19. Dark and charred, with
black cherry, black licorice and a burnt-oak element
on the nose. The palate is thick and firm,
with dark berry, herbal notes and some additional
burnt char. Finishes with herbal flavors, olive
notes and carob. An obvious Chilean Merlot;
comes straight from central casting. Imported by
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
86
Viña Bisquertt 2008 La Joya
Reserve Merlot (Colchagua Valley);
$12. An earthy wine with aromas of saddle
leather, roast berries and some rubber. The palate
feel is reasonably smooth, while the flavor profile
blends creamy chocolaty notes with standard cassis
and blackberry fruit. A little cooked and candied
but holds it together for the most part.
Imported by Prestige Wine Group. —M.S.
83
Crucero 2007 Reserva Merlot
(Colchagua Valley); $10. Warm,
earthy and stewed smelling, but then sharp and
tangy and acidic in the mouth. Red fruits are
dominant, but there’s a persistent scour to the
wine that doesn’t allow it to get to the next level
of quality or ripeness. Imported by Kysela Père et
Fils. —M.S.
83
Viña La Rosa 2008 La Palma
Reserva Merlot (Cachapoal Val-
ley); $10. Mild vinegar and full-fledged herbal
aromas are typical of traditional Chilean Merlot,
and while the palate is solid, it’s also scratchy, with
tart raspberry and semiweedy flavors. Finishes
with burnt brown sugar, herbal flavors and grating
acidity. Imported by MJM Imports. —M.S.
81
Asunto de Vino 2008 Merlot (Central
Valley); $12. Hot, herbal and just
not convincing. The palate is dilute and offers no
midlevel, and the flavors are a strange mix of citrusy
fruit and herbal weediness. Crisp and lean
on the finish, and not bringing much to the table
as a whole. Imported by Testa Wines Of The
World. —M.S.
PINOT NOIR
85
Simone 2007 Winemaker’s Collection
Pinot Noir (Bío Bío Valley);
$15. Earthy and a touch burnt on the nose, with
standard berry and black cherry aromas. The
palate is mostly fresh and clean, with honest but
limited flavors of dried cherry, spice and tea. Not
a strained or forced PN, but basic nonetheless.
Imported by Simone International. —M.S.
84
Viña el Aromo 2007 Winemaker’s
Selection Pinot Noir (Bío Bío Val-
ley); $16. Citric on the nose, with cherry and
bland earthy notes. The palate has an inoffensive
feel and sweet flavors of black cherry and vanilla.
That sweetness carries onto the finish, which is
also candied. Generally decent but highly regular.
Imported by Simone International. —M.S.
83
Sassy Bitch 2008 Pinot Noir (Central
Valley); $10. The bouquet suggests
burnt rubber, compost and briar patch along
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with basic raspberry/cherry. The palate has a mild
creaminess to it and herbal, lightly stemmy flavors
of raspberry and rhubarb. Finishes tart, with
herbs and vanilla. Imported by Seven Hills Trading
Company. —M.S.
82
Llai Llai 2008 Pinot Noir (Bío Bío
Valley); $13. Flat, dusty and candied
smelling, with little body or concentration. The
flavors are generic and hint at strawberry, and
overall it fits the definition of a subpar New
World Pinot Noir. Acceptable but barely worth a
go. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.S.
SYRAH/SHIRAZ
89
Montes 2008 Alpha Syrah (Colchagua
Valley); $24. Opens nicely, with
hints of olive, earth, rubber and leather. The
palate is juicy and lively, while flavors of coconut,
toast and black fruit meld together in good fashion.
A fresh, clean style of Syrah that’s forward
but not hard or tannic. Imported by T.G.I.C.
Importers. —M.S.
88
Concha y Toro 2008 Marques de
Casa Concha Syrah (Maipo Valley);
$22. Nice aromas of cherry fruit and
sweetness are perfectly clean, while the palate is
slightly spunky and high in acid, with wild-berry
flavors running side by side with red cherry and
citrus. Has a tart, blazing side but also very good
fruit character and purity. Imported by Banfi
Vintners. —M.S.
87
El Huique 2005 Special Selection
Syrah-Cabernet (Colchagua Valley);
$15. Slightly rough and leathery on first
take, and a little soupy as well. Airing clears
things up, leaving a steady, mildly stewed wine
with roasted plum and blackberry flavors.
Ripe, sweet and generous, with a controlled finish
that properly reflects the wine’s flavors and
mouthfeel. Imported by Vidalco International,
LLC. —M.S.
87
Gracia de Chile 2008 Reserva
Superior Syrah-Grenache-Viognier
(Cachapoal Valley); $14. A little funky and
murky at first, but airing reveals meaty, leathery
aromas. The palate is solid and shows good balance,
while the flavors of berry and cherry fruit
carry an herbal element. Finishes mildly peppery
and bitter, but also floral and spicy. Imported by
Great Wines Corpora. —M.S.