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BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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<strong>BUYING</strong> I <strong>GUIDE</strong><br />

the same time finally crisp. Imported by Pernod<br />

Ricard. —R.V.<br />

88<br />

J. Dumangin Fils NV Rosé Premier<br />

Cru Brut (Champagne); $54. Bright,<br />

very crisp wine with fresh strawberry flavors. It is<br />

dry, light, a grapefruit zest character over the red<br />

fruits. This is great apéritif Champagne.<br />

Imported by Palateur Imports. —R.V.<br />

88<br />

Lallier NV Rosé Premier Cru Brut<br />

(Champagne); $65. Light pink in<br />

color, this is a bone-dry wine, with raspberry as<br />

well as an intense apple skin and grapefruit zest<br />

texture. A linear wine, very direct in its fruit character.<br />

Imported by Massanois Imports. —R.V.<br />

88<br />

Mailly Grand Cru NV Brut Rosé<br />

(Champagne); $57. A soft wine that is<br />

full of strawberry fruits to go with a sweet citrus<br />

edge. The wine has good acidity, in a light apéritif<br />

style with pure final raspberry juice. Imported by<br />

Total <strong>Wine</strong> & More. —R.V.<br />

87<br />

Charles Ellner NV Rosé Brut<br />

(Champagne); $50. On the dry side,<br />

the red cherry flavor is concentrated inside acidity<br />

and a fruit skin texture. Very fresh, very crisp,<br />

for food. Imported by Massanois Imports. —R.V.<br />

87<br />

G. H. Mumm NV Brut Rosé (Champagne);<br />

$75. Attractive strawberry flavors<br />

give this bright wine both softness and<br />

richness. It has a light bitter cherry character and<br />

balancing acidity, while finishing softly. Imported<br />

by Pernod Ricard. —R.V.<br />

86<br />

Drappier NV Rosé Brut (Champagne);<br />

$NA. Soft, sweet wine with<br />

crushed strawberry flavors that show a high<br />

dosage and sweet acidity. It is full-bodied, rich,<br />

but not well balanced. Imported by A. Hardy<br />

USA. —R.V.<br />

OTHER FRENCH<br />

SPARKLING WINE<br />

ALSACE<br />

88<br />

Gustave Lorentz NV Brut (Crémant<br />

d’Alsace); $25. A crisp, appleand<br />

grapefruit-flavored wine, with bright, light<br />

acidity and a floral character. The wine has an<br />

attractive mineral edge, great as an apéritif.<br />

Imported by Quintessential <strong>Wine</strong>s. —R.V.<br />

88<br />

René Muré NV Cuvée Prestige<br />

Brut (Crémant d’Alsace); $25. Rich,<br />

sumptuous wine that shows weight of ripe fruit, a<br />

smooth texture and delicious peach and apple flavors.<br />

The crisp edge comes from a lemon zest<br />

burst, breaking out of the minerality. Imported<br />

by Robert Kacher Imports. —R.V.<br />

87<br />

Gustave Lorentz NV Brut Rosé<br />

(Crémant d’Alsace); $25. Based on<br />

Pinot Noir, this attractive rosé is packed with wild<br />

strawberry and fresh orange zest flavors. It’s<br />

beautifully clean, crisp, with just a warmer touch<br />

in the aftertaste. Imported by Quintessential<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>s. —R.V.<br />

87<br />

Lucien Albrecht NV Brut Rosé<br />

(Crémant d’Alsace); $23. From<br />

100% Pinot Noir, here is a delicious, crisp, wild<br />

raspberry- and mulberry-flavored wine. The acidity<br />

shines through the fruit skin texture, giving a<br />

mouthtingling feel. Imported by Pasternak <strong>Wine</strong><br />

Imports. —R.V.<br />

86<br />

Lucien Albrecht NV Brut Blanc de<br />

Blancs (Crémant d’Alsace); $23. A<br />

creamed pear wine, with an attractive tang of<br />

orange zest. It is light, bright, vibrant, very fruity.<br />

The acidity does seem to be excessive, so give this<br />

wine a few months in bottle. Imported by Pasternak<br />

<strong>Wine</strong> Imports. —R.V.<br />

86<br />

René Muré NV Brut (Crémant<br />

d’Alsace); $19. Very soft, ripe, this is a<br />

gentle sparkler. White fruits dominate along with<br />

crushed almond, layered acidity and a bone-dry<br />

perfumed aftertaste. Imported by Robert Kacher<br />

Imports. —R.V.<br />

LOIRE<br />

90<br />

Chateau Moncontour 2008 Cuvée<br />

Prédilection (Vouvray); $19. A<br />

sumptuous wine, creamy and nutty, full of ripe<br />

apples, touched by yeast. It is fresh and rich, very<br />

dry, a toasty character yielding to final crisp, clean<br />

acidity. Imported by USA <strong>Wine</strong> West. Editors’<br />

Choice. —R.V.<br />

88<br />

Chateau Moncontour NV Brut<br />

(Montlouis-sur-Loire); $14. A<br />

creamy-textured wine, with soft nuts, star fruit<br />

1 6 | W I N E E N T H U S I A S T | D E C E M B E R 1 , 2 0 1 0<br />

and rambutan flavors, along with some good crisp<br />

acidity. There is a fine texture here, giving a wine<br />

that is already delicious to drink. Imported by<br />

USA <strong>Wine</strong> West. —R.V.<br />

88<br />

Couly-Dutheil NV Brut de Franc<br />

(Vin Mousseux); $30. A richer version<br />

of a Saumur sparkling wine, this is soft, ripe<br />

and creamy. The dosage feels on the sweet side,<br />

although it is labeled Brut. There is just a touch<br />

of fruit skin texture to give it a firm edge, but<br />

there is also great final acidity. Imported by<br />

Frank-Lin International. —R.V.<br />

87<br />

Chateau Moncontour NV Tête de<br />

Cuvée Brut (Touraine); $NA. Bright,<br />

apply acidity with just an edge of nuttiness gives a<br />

bone-dry, very fresh wine, textured with green<br />

herbs and lemon zest. To enjoy now. Imported<br />

by USA <strong>Wine</strong> West. —R.V.<br />

86<br />

Hospices de Saumur NV La Rosée<br />

Brut (Vin Mousseux); $22. Fresh<br />

raspberry-flavored sparkling wine, with vivid acidity<br />

but also some softness. It has a bright, crisp<br />

texture, lively and refreshing. The wine comes<br />

from a small parcel next to the Hospices de<br />

Saumur. Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections.<br />

—R.V.<br />

83<br />

Domaine de Vaugondy NV Brut<br />

(Vouvray); $15. Biting acidity, tight<br />

with a tart edge, give this wine a seriously crisp<br />

character. It is all sharp edges, with grapefruit<br />

intensity and a final almond character. Imported<br />

by European <strong>Wine</strong> Imports. —R.V.<br />

OTHER REGIONS<br />

88<br />

Domaine Sarrabelle NV Méthode<br />

Gaillacoise (Gaillac); $12. Lightly<br />

sparkling, just off-dry wine, deliciously appley and<br />

fresh. There is a lovely edge of crisp, crunchy<br />

fruit along with a gentle acidity. Low in alcohol,<br />

this is a great apéritif, made by the single fermentation<br />

Gaillac method. Imported by Jon-David<br />

Headrick Selections. —R.V.<br />

83<br />

Domaine du Grand Cros NV Le<br />

Grand Cros Rosé (Vin Mousseux);<br />

$17. Full and fat mousse over peachy fruit, acidity<br />

and an earthy character. This sparkling wine<br />

from Provence finishes with some crushed<br />

strawberry sweetness. Imported by The Barter<br />

House. —R.V.

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