BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

fun, fresh and bright Barbera (aged in large oak
casks) that shows good integrity of fruit and an
easy, informal personality. Pair this wine with
risotto cooked with cream of asparagus. Imported
by Nicola Biscardo Selections. —M.L.
86
Cantine San Silvestro 2009 Ottone
I (Barbera di Piemonte); $10. This is
a fruit-forward wine (aged only in stainless steel
to maintain the freshness of the berry aromas)
that would pair with cheesy pasta dishes. It’s an
easy, no-fuss Barbera with a refreshing note of
acidity on the close. Imported by BelVino LLC.
Best Buy. —M.L.
86
Carlin De Paolo 2009 Cursus Vitae
(Barbera d’Asti); $15. Aged only in
stainless steel, this youthful Barbera d’Asti shows
cheerful aromas of ripe fruit and sweet berries.
The wine does a very nice job of balancing its
naturally fresh acidity with the bright, pristine
nature of its fruit. Imported by American Northwest
Distributors Inc. —M.L.
86
Carlin De Paolo 2008 Cursus Vitae
(Barbera d’Asti); $15. Perfect for
pairing with cheesy pizza, pasta topped with
grated Pecorino cheese, or cold cuts of salami and
ham, this fresh Barbera d’Asti cleans the palate
with its fresh acidity and wild berry flavors.
Imported by American Northwest Distributors
Inc. —M.L.
86
Gianni Gagliardo 2008 Barbera
d’Alba; $19. Beautifully packaged in a
simple bottle with a red seal, this fresh Barbera
d’Alba (aged only in stainless steel) offers bright,
sharp acidity that would cut straight through butter-
or cream-based dishes. Imported by Enotec
Imports, Inc. —M.L.
86
Massimiliano Vivalda 2008
Vivalda (Barbera d’Asti); $13. Aged
in stainless steel to maintain the integrity of its
fresh fruit aromas, this bright wine presents layers
of cherry, raspberry, spice cake and cola. It’s a
fresh, easy wine that would pair with sausage or
pepperoni pizza. Imported by Testa Wines Of
The World. —M.L.
OTHER RED WINES
92
Ceretto 2007 Monsordo (Langhe);
$38. Monsordo is an innovative concept
and is a premier example of a modern, interna-
tional wine with unmistakable roots in Piedmont.
Fruit used here includes Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Syrah and Nebbiolo and the overall effect
it that of harmony and power. The wine is packed
tight with red fruit, spice and tobacco and its texture
is smooth, dense and rich. Very nice.
Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L.
90
Anna Maria Abbona 2004 Cadò
(Langhe); $30. This beautiful blend of
Barbera and Dolcetto shows characteristics of
both native grapes (although the Barbera component
is an overwhelming 90%). There are
mature fruit aromas here with cherry, blackberry
and raspberry but there’s also a touch of spice
cake and leather. From the 2004 vintage, the
wine shows a soft and sophisticated side.
Imported by Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L.
88
Castello di Verduno 2008
Basadone (Verduno); $28. Made
with the little-known indigenous Pelaverga Piccolo
grape, this ruby-colored red wine from Piedmont
delivers a crisp, fresh and streamlined
package that is distantly reminiscent of Nebbiolo.
It’s rustic but ripe with personality and if you are
curious about new Italian varieties, give it a try.
Imported by Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L.
88
Montalbera 2008 Laccento (Ruché
di Castagnole Monferrato); $28.
Laccento (from the Bricco Montalbera cru) is a
luminous, ruby-colored wine with fresh aromas
of raspberry, spice, cola, pressed violets and
crushed black pepper. The wine is crisp and sharp
with a good capacity to refresh the palate after
cheesy or fatty foods. Imported by Bonhomie
Wine Imports. —M.L.
87
Montalbera 2008 La Tradizione
(Ruché di Castagnole Monfer-
rato); $22. Made with the little-known Ruché
grape that is believed to be native of the Asti area
of Italy’s Piedmont region, this bright and rubycolored
red wine offers floral and simple berry
aromas. It shows freshness and structure,
making it a good pairing partner to pasta or
quiche lorraine. Imported by Bonhomie Wine
Imports. —M.L.
87
Rizzi 2009 Dolcetto d’Alba; $18.
There’s a very nice aromatic quality to
this young Dolcetto d’Alba that can best be
described as raspberry, blackberry and crushed
black pepper. The spicy note gives the wine per-
sonality and staying power. Imported by Opici
Import Company. —M.L.
87
Tenuta La Marchesa 2007 (Monferrato);
$19. This fun blend of Barbera,
Merlot and Albarossa drinks easily and
would pair with a long list of foods including
pasta, chicken and spicy ground beef. Aromas
include cherry, blackberry, cola and chocolate and
the wine’s finish is smooth and soft. Imported by
Saranty Imports. —M.L.
85
Quattro Leoni 2008 Grignolino
(Monferrato); $17. The name Grignolino
comes from the dialect word for “seeds.”
The grape, on the other hand, requires special
winemaking techniques in order to soften the
wine’s tannins due to the natural abundance of
seeds. Light in color and bright with fresh fruit
characteristics, this would make an ideal red
aperitivo wine. Imported by Marquee Artisan
Wines. —M.L.
PIEDMONT
WHITE WINES
ARNEIS
88
Giacomo Vico 2009 Arneis
(Roero); $18. Here is a very satisfying
white wine from northern Italy that offers
extreme freshness on the bouquet along with a
creamy, silky structure at the end. Pair this Roero
Arneis with seafood risotto or steamed mussels.
Imported by The Wine Company. —M.L.
87
Ceretto 2008 Blangé Arneis
(Langhe); $27. Blangé is a supremely
clean and pristine white wine to drink as an aperitivo
or with fresh salads or seafood. There are
bright fruit notes here of peach, pear and citrus
but there’s also a very attractive mineral tone that
holds it all together. The wine is fresh, crisp and
tonic throughout. Imported by Wilson Daniels
Ltd. —M.L.
87
Pioiero 2008 Cascina Pioiero
Arneis (Roero); $23. Light, bright and
luminous, this fresh and floral Roero Arneis is
aged in stainless steel to maintain its natural
zest and fruitiness. Pair the wine with shellfish
or white meat. Imported by Enotec Imports,
Inc. —M.L.
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