BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

92
Giacomo Grimaldi 2006 Le Coste
(Barolo); $NA. Very different than the
2005 vintage, Barolo Le Coste from Giacomo
Grimaldi opens with a brownish-amber color and
ripe berry or candied fruit aromas. There are
beautifully fine aromas of tar, asphalt and licorice
in the background that help balance it out. A
Marc de Grazia selection; various American
importers. —M.L.
92
Giacosa Fratelli 2006 Bussia
(Barolo); $52. Here’s an expression of
Nebbiolo from the celebrated Bussia cru that
opens with juicy fruit tones of cherry and blackberry
backed by charred notes of campfire, cured
beef, cigar box, leather and crushed granite. The
tannins here boast a very polished, almost
squeaky quality. Hold for five more years at least.
Imported by Bedford International. —M.L.
92
Giacosa Fratelli 2005 Vigna Mandorlo
(Barolo); $75. This is an elegant
and refined Barolo with focused aromas of black
fruit, drying mineral and root beer. There’s also a
playful side that emerges thanks to the wine’s ripe
and plush mouthfeel. Sure, it’s a structured, tannic
wine but its fine texture helps make it
approachable within the next five years or so.
Imported by Bedford International. —M.L.
92
Gian Piero Marrone 2006
Pichemej (Barolo); $NA. This Barolo
with the vocally challenging name Pichemej
reveals a dark and moody side that is reinforced
by aromas of black fruit, plum, pressed rose, tar
and asphalt. There’s a textured, earthy quality
here followed by firmly drying tannins. Pair this
wine with tender beef ribs. Imported by Latitude
Wines, Inc. —M.L.
92
Gianfranco Bovio 2006 Rocchettevino
(Barolo); $NA. Extreme elegance
and balance characterize Gianfranco Bovio’s
Barolo Rocchettevino. The wine is studied and
sophisticated with a clean presentation of fruit,
spice and ethereal balsam or herbal aromas. It’s a
toned and carefully structured wine that will last
many long years in the cellar. Imported by Robert
Chadderdon Selections. —M.L.
92
Gianni Gagliardo 2004 Preve Riserva
(Barolo); $125. Here’s a Barolo
that lives up to its “riserva” status thanks to aged
aromas of old spice, leather, black mineral, root
beer, tar and menthol-like intensity. There are
some earthy, dusty tones on the finish and the
wine imparts firm, ripe tannins in the mouth.
Riservas are usually aged one more year
than base Barolos. Imported by Enotec Imports,
Inc. —M.L.
92
Giovanni Rosso 2006 Serralunga
(Barolo); $38. Giovanni Rosso’s Barolo
Serralunga opens with bright intensity and lively
aromas of black cherry, raspberry, smoke, mineral,
red rose, licorice and root beer. Those floralrose
nuances are especially beautiful and the
wine should age at least five more years so that
the tannins soften. Imported by Massanois
Imports. —M.L.
92
Grimaldi Bruna 2006 Camilla
(Barolo); $NA. This Barolo exhibits
sweet aromas of berry fruit, Christmas spice and
vanilla. It’s a bold, confident wine with a smooth
but firm quality in the mouth that hits all the
right marks. Pair this Barolo with marinated
lamb and dried fig jelly. Imported by Premium
Brands. —M.L.
92
Guido Porro 2006 Vigna S. Caterina
(Barolo); $39. Elegant and pure
in essence, this traditional interpretation of
Barolo offers a long and steady aromatic lineup
of wild berry, spice, cola and mineral aromas.
The wine feels streamlined and pristine in
the mouth and will age many more years in the
cellar. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant.
—M.L.
92
Guido Porro 2006 Vigna Lazzairasco
(Barolo); $39. Compared to
the estate’s S. Caterina expression of Barolo, the
Lazzairasco cru delivers higher intensity in terms
of its spice and vanilla tones. The wine is young,
well structured, lively and fresh with a very elegant
mouthfeel. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine
Merchant. —M.L.
92
Marziano Abbona 2006 Pressenda
(Barolo); $56. The Barolo Pressenda
opens with bold, black aromas of toasted hazelnut,
crushed granite, prunes, plums and smoky
barbecue sauce. That thick intensity follows
through to the mouth where the wine shows concentration
and a tight, dense style: Hold for five
to ten years. Imported by Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —M.L.
92
Palladino 2006 Serralunga
(Barolo); $48. Here’s a beautiful
expression of Barolo with finely textured tannins,
bright acidity, drying talc powder or mineral notes
and tons of fresh berry and cherry intensity. This
is a particularly refined and elegant wine that,
when aged a few more years in the bottle, will
pair with veal, pork or beef. Imported by Enotec
Imports, Inc. —M.L.
92
Parusso 2006 Le Coste Mosconi
(Barolo); $94. Le Coste Mosconi delivers
a very attractive ensemble of ripe fruit aromas
with oak-driven shadings of vanilla, cinnamon and
clove. No single aroma is over the top and the
wine is indeed nicely integrated and balanced.
The tannins are drying and tight, creating a firm
impression on the close. Imported by Montecastelli
Selections. —M.L.
92
Piazzo Armando 2006 Barolo;
$40. Sure this Barolo is slightly on the
ripe side with mature fruit notes of strawberry
and raspberry aromas. But it also offers elegance
and complexity with supporting notes of
coffee, espresso and spice. A long finish and drying
tannins close the deal. Imported by Angelini
Wine. —M.L.
92
Pio Cesare 2006 Barolo; $61. Here
is a classic expression of Barolo from a
very good vintage that opens with bright fruit aromas
that are embellished by carefully measured
oak tones. You’ll recognize blackberry, cassis,
tobacco, mineral, cola and humus. The tannins
are young and this wine requires more years of
bottle aging. Imported by Maisons Marques &
Domaines USA. —M.L.
92
Rivetto 2006 Leon (Barolo); $NA.
Rivetto is making some very interesting
wines and is worth keeping a close eye on. The
Leon Barolo opens with plump aromas of coffee,
cherry, blackberry, spice and ripe berry fruit. It’s a
generous and velvety wine with firm tannins and
a dusty, finely textured mouthfeel. Imported by
Vintage Imports, Inc. —M.L.
92
Rivetto 2005 Leon (Barolo); $50.
The dynamic Rivetto family has been
making wine since 1902 and the newest generation
of winemakers is worth keeping an eye on.
This bright and elegant Barolo shows aromas of
spice, cola, cherry, tar, prune and black currants.
It tastes smooth and elegant and shows
firm structure in the mouth. Imported by
Voliovino. —M.L.
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