BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING GUIDE
94
Meander 2007 Morisoli Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford);
$120. Such are the tannins in this 100% Cab
that it demands cellar time. It’s really shut down
and astringent in youth, which emphasizes the
dryness. But it’s very fine, with a solid core of ripe
black cherry fruit that will express its sweetness
when the tannins melt away. Winemaker Amy
Aiken is really showing her stuff with this polished
ager. Best 2013–2019. Cellar Selection.
94
Peju 2007 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Rutherford); $105.
Erupts out from the glass with beautiful Cabernet
perfume, suggesting cherry pie from the
oven, licorice, sandalwood and dusty dried herbs,
like sage and thyme. Very dry, with a long spicy
finish, but also quite tannic, although lots of the
tannins come from new oak. Best to age this polished
100% Cab for at least six years.
94
Renato Ratti 2006 Marcenasco
(Barolo); $50. Dark in color with a
modern style and velvety extraction, the gorgeous
Marcenasco expression of Barolo is redolent of
blackberries, cherries, spice, leather and tobacco.
The finish is long and elegant but not without
power and determination. Keep this wine cellared
for ten years plus. Imported by Dreyfus,
Ashby & Co.
94
Schramsberg 2007 Blanc de Noirs
Brut (North Coast); $38. Mainly
Pinot Noir, with some Chardonnay for brightness
and citrusy zest, this brilliantly clean wine has an
incredibly fierce mousse. It seems to boil in the
glass, and the followup mouthfeel is as creamy
and refined as any California sparkler in memory.
The Pinot asserts itself in delicate touches of
raspberries and strawberries. Delicious and compelling
now. Try with sushi. Editors’ Choice.
94
Schramsberg 2007 Brut Rosé
(North Coast); $41. With a pretty
pink-salmon color, this Pinot Noir-based blush is
rich and full-bodied. It has considerable weight
for a bubbly, but the acidity and freshness and
yeasty tang lift it up to Champagne elegance.
Impossible not to fall in love with this raspberryscented
beauty, but why wouldn’t you want to?
94
Schramsberg 2003 J. Schram
(North Coast); $100. A beautiful,
rich, elegant, fancy sparkling wine. Feels so fine
in the mouth, all silk and satin, with deep, dry
raspberry, strawberry, vanilla, toast, yeasty lees,
brioche and honey flavors. Superb, but young.
Needs time. Give it until 2011, if you can keep
your hands off, and should develop until 2015, if
not longer. Cellar Selection.
4 | W I N E E N T H U S I A S T | D E C E M B E R 1 , 2 0 1 0
94
White Cottage Ranch 2007 Estate
Merlot (Howell Mountain); $50.
The best things about this Merlot are its extreme
dryness, tannin integrity and relative austerity. It’s
a pleasure to drink a Merlot that’s not a fruit bomb.
That doesn’t mean you won’t find complex flavors
of blackberries and currants. You will. It means
that this extraordinary Merlot is pushing the envelope
on what California, and Napa Valley in particular,
is able to achieve in making Merlot along
classically structured lines. Editors’ Choice.
93
Conspire 2008 Russian River Pinot
Noir (Sonoma County); $42. Richly
textured, this Pinot comes from the Sebastopol
area. In this cool vintage, it has a bright burst of
acidity and is very dry, with intricate flavors of
raspberries, cherries, pomegranates, licorice,
sweet oak and lots of dusty spices. Now–2014.
93
Gosset 2000 Grand Millésime Brut
(Champagne); $90. A soft and beautifully
ripe Champagne, albeit with a steely, mineral
core. It is very much in the Gosset pure, dry
style, full of apple and grapefruit acidity to go
with a light yeast character. Unlike some 2000s,
this should age well. Imported by Palm Bay
International.