BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING I GUIDE
$17. This new vintage of Consequence deftly
mixes the strengths of each grape. The Sauv
Blanc provides a pleasingly green, herbal base;
the Aligoté fills in with some stone fruit flesh; and
the Viognier boosts the aromatics, with floral/citrus
highlights. —P.G.
87
Milbrandt 2009 Traditions Pinot
Gris (Columbia Valley); $13. This is
quite light and lemony, closer to an Italian Pinot
Grigio than to an Oregon Pinot Gris. What it
lacks in flesh it compensates for in freshness and
vitality; the subtle fruit flavors suggest Asian pear,
jicama and cucumber. It would be a lovely match
for a light fish such as rainbow trout or Dover
sole. —P.G.
81
Martinez & Martinez 2009 Alder
Ridge Vineyard Roussanne (Horse
Heaven Hills); $18. Yeasty and beery, this
young Roussanne also carries a strong impression
of residual sugar. Add alcoholic burn to the mix
and the combination does not work; it’s a wine at
war with itself. —P.G.
CHILE
RED WINES
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
93
Concha y Toro 2007 Don Melchor
Cabernet Sauvignon (Puente
Alto); $95. Deep, a bit reduced on the nose,
and full as can be, with blackberry, cassis and
prune aromas. The palate is super rich and concentrated,
and frankly a bit heady. Flavors of
burnt brown sugar, toast, tobacco, pepper and
baked berry fruits are delicious, and the finish is
dense and long. Drinkable now but best in
another two to four years. This marks the 20th
anniversary of Concha y Toro’s Don Melchor
Cabernet. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.S.
93
Domus Aurea 2007 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $60.
After a few down years and a couple of winemaker
changes, Domus Aurea is back in fine
form. The nose is heady, leathery and powerful,
while the palate is compact, bullish and tannic.
Tastes fabulous with its dynamic mix of brawny
berry, tobacco, toast and leather. A Maipo Valley
gem with length and complexity. Drink now
through 2014. Imported by Global Vineyard
Importers. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
92
Errazuriz 2007 Viñedo Chadwick
Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Val-
ley); $260. Chile’s most expensive wine is excellent,
and with only 50 cases being imported it’s
definitely a collector’s edition. The nose is deep,
dense and black as night, with olive, tobacco,
coconut and bold black fruit aromas. The palate
is racy and tannic, and the flavors of plum, cassis,
blackberry, chocolate, prune and fig are elevated.
A tough and ribald wine that will be at its
best from 2012–2015. Imported by Vintus
LLC. —M.S.
91
Echeverria 2006 Founder’s Selection
Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo
Valley); $35. Earthy and a touch shy at first,
with lightly floral aromas that blend well with the
scents of baked plum, prune and blackberry. It’s
heavy and cheek-grabbing, but also hugely flavorful
and loaded with cassis, blackberry, herbs
and tobacco. Long as a marathon on the finish.
Drink from 2011 through 2014. 1,000 cases
made. Imported by Ararat Import/Export Co.
LLC. —M.S.
91
Indomita 2008 Zardoz Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $30.
Let’s face it, my scores for Indomita’s wines have
never been very high. But this high-end, best-oflot
Cabernet is excellent and an eye-catcher. The
nose of mocha, coconut, blackberry and herbs is
classic Maipo Valley, while the mouth is lush, correct
and full of sweet cherry, cassis and tobacco
flavors. Comfortable throughout, with unbreakable
smoothness. Drink now through 2013.
Imported by David Milligan Selections. Editors’
Choice. —M.S.
90
Caliterra 2008 Tributo Single Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Colch-
agua Valley); $20. Dusty, sweet, dark-fruited
and properly herbal, this is a Cabernet that very
much fits the Chilean blueprint of what the variety
should smell and taste like. Creamy and full,
with bold berry, herb and vanilla flavors, and then
with a lush, dense finish. Drink now through
2012. Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S.
90
Errazuriz 2008 Single Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Aconcagua
Valley); $21. Dark, sultry and hard at first, but
with airing comes a wave of cola, vanilla and black
fruit notes that settle in the right way. The palate
is healthy and balanced, and the flavors of cherry,
currant, plum and tobacco are enticing and long.
Herbal in some ways, but not too much. Shows
6 8 | W I N E E N T H U S I A S T | D E C E M B E R 1 , 2 0 1 0
quality and some short-term aging ability; drink
now through 2012. Imported by T.G.I.C.
Importers. —M.S.
89
La Playa 2007 Axel Cabernet
Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley);
$20. Solid from front to back. The nose is your
normal mix of cassis, blackberry, latex glove and
licorice nibs, while the palate runs hard and condensed,
with ripe black fruit flavors. A little clacky
and tough on the tongue and cheeks, but true as
you can ask for from a Colchagua Cabernet.
Imported by Cabernet Corporation. —M.S.
88
Arboleda 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Aconcagua Valley); $19.
Dark and charred, with aromas of shoe polish,
asphalt, coconut and blackberry. It’s masculine
in style, with firm tannins that bite down in support
of concentrated black fruit, chocolate and
spice flavors. Coffee, bitterness and heat work
the finish on this tannic, full-bodied Cabernet.
Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. —M.S.
88
Aresti 2008 Equilibrio Organically
Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maipo Valley); $11. There’s plenty of
black fruit and power on the nose. The palate
matches that aromatic intensity by showing tannic
grab and body along with deep cherry, cassis and
tobacco flavors. Finishes earthy and leathery, but
with enough berry fruit and richness. Imported
by Broadbent Selections, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
88
Asunto de Vino 2008 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Central Valley); $12.
Basic but in the best possible way. The nose is
familiar, clean and inviting due to licorice, sweet
black fruit and smoky aromas. Fresh in the
mouth, with bright acidity pumping up berry, cassis
and herbal flavors. Composed on the finish,
with a high level of competence. Imported by
Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. —M.S.
88
Koyle 2008 Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley);
$17. A touch earthy and leathery at first, but
also berry driven and full, with a lot of run to it.
The palate has a round, full feel as well as flavors
of black cherry, cassis, herbs and tobacco.
Chunky on the finish, where it flattens out.
Drink now through 2011. Imported by Quintessential
Wines. —M.S.