BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING I GUIDE
93
Moët & Chandon 2002 Grand Vintage
Rosé Brut (Champagne);
$NA. So many great years in Champagne—like
2002—give the most wonderful complexity to the
wines. This rosé is no exception, very crisp, shot
through with acidity, with delicious mulberry and
cherry flavors, just a hint of grilled nuts. It could
well age for many years. Imported by Moët Hennessy
USA. —R.V.
93
Ruinart 1996 Dom Ruinart Brut
Rosé (Champagne); $295. Pale pink
in color, this is stylish rosé. It has the intense
acidity of the 1996 vintage, meaning that it still
tastes young, crisp, vibrant. The only suggestion
that this is 14 years old is in the slight toastiness.
But it should go on for many more years.
Imported by Moët Hennessy USA. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
93
Taittinger 2004 Comtes de Champagne
Rosé Brut (Champagne);
$290. A gloriously rich rosé that is full of ripe
raspberries that burst in the mouth. It has a tight
texture, balanced by a rounded feel. It is still
young, of course, and the sweet finish needs time
to integrate. Even so, relish the wine now, or wait
3–4 years. Imported by Kobrand. —R.V.
92
Deutz 2006 Rosé Brut (Champagne);
$73. Very young wine, one
which is full and rich, but which needs several
years to blossom into its full potential. It is in the
dry Deutz style, emphasizing acidity and elegance,
even though it also has a wonderful ripe
intensity. Imported by Maisons Marques &
Domaines USA. —R.V.
92
Moët & Chandon 2003 Grand Vintage
Rosé Brut (Champagne);
$NA. Onion skin color, showing signs of aromatic
toast character, this is a rich, round wine from the
hot 2003 vintage. Raspberry fruits are rich and
full, lifted by acidity. A great success. Imported by
Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.
92
Perrier Jouët 2002 Fleur de Champagne
Rosé Brut (Champagne);
$349. All raspberries and red currants, this is a
delicious, instantly approachable wine. It also has
a more complex side, intense acidity, a tight texture
followed by a juicy fruit character. It is a
wine for celebration as well as more serious
appreciation. Imported by Pernod Ricard. —R.V.
88
Nicolas Feuillatte 2003 Palmes
d’Or Rosé Brut (Champagne);
$200. The Palmes d’Or rosé is always distinctive,
not always for the good. However, this 2003
vintage shows well, with ripe cherry flavors, yeast
and a soft, open texture. The acidity adds a crisp
lemon zest aftertaste. Imported by Ste. Michelle
Wine Estates. —R.V.
NONVINTAGE
94
Krug NV Grande Cuvée Brut
(Champagne); $180. With its mini-
mum of six years’ bottle aging, this is a beautifully
integrated, mature wine. It has a wonderful toast
character, layered over sliced pears and ripe acidity.
With its complex poise between lightness and
richness, this remains an intensely impressive
wine. Imported by Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.
93
Bollinger NV Special Cuvée Brut
(Champagne); $65. Always a rich non-
vintage, this latest bottling doesn’t disappoint
expectations. It has a rich, biscuity character, hints
of toast along with pure citrus and fresh apricots. It
is ripe, generous, to be drunk with food. Imported
by Terlato Wines International. —R.V.
92
Lallier NV Grande Réserve Grand
Cru Brut (Champagne); $55. With a
fine sense of maturity, this is rich, toasty, full-bodied
and concentrated. It is a Champagne with
weight, showing pink grapefruit, melon and green
plum flavors inside an intense texture. At the end,
acidity combines with a fine toasty flourish.
Imported by Massanois Imports. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
92
Pascal Doquet NV Grand Cru Le
Mesnil sur Oger Blanc de Blancs
(Champagne); $79. A smooth and creamy
Champagne, delicious peach and apricot fruits
linked by acidity into a harmonious whole. There
is a great apple skin texture that gives a bite, just
enough to shape the rich aftertaste. Imported by
Robert Kacher Imports. —R.V.
92
Ruinart NV Blanc de Blancs Brut
(Champagne); $70. White flower and
pear aromas offer a wine that is mineral, nervy,
vibrating with the freshest white fruits and lemon
juice. It is concentrated, showing strong signs of
toast, mature flavors, while keeping great richness.
Imported by Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.
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91
G. H. Mumm NV Mumm de Cramant
Grand Cru Brut (Champagne);
$75. Once called Crémant de
Cramant, this has long been Mumm’s signature
Champagne. Creamy and soft, it is deliciously
balanced, a wine that is both crisp and toasty, with
mouthwatering acidity to go with its white currant
and green apple flavors. Imported by Pernod
Ricard. —R.V.
90
Drappier NV Carte d’Or Brut
(Champagne); $NA. This is rich
Champagne, full with a lively mousse and a dominance
of Pinot. The acidity and grapefruit flavors
are intense, with just a hint of yeastiness.
This bottling seems youthful and could age a few
months. Imported by A. Hardy USA. —R.V.
90
Drappier NV Quattuor Blanc de
Blancs Brut (Champagne); $70. A
blend that includes three ancient Champagne
varieties—Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Blanc
Vrai—along with Chardonnay. The mix gives a
full, perfumed and rich wine, with intense acidity
as well as the crispest apple flavor. It is without
question a wine for food. Imported by A. Hardy
Usa. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
90
Drappier NV Zéro Dosage Brut
Nature (Champagne); $NA. Mouthtingling
freshness in a very crisp, dry wine that
lives up to its Zéro Dosage moniker. It is all about
green apples, freshly sliced lemon, a taut minerality.
A few months bottle age will help to bring out
a rounder, yeasty character. Imported by A.
Hardy USA. —R.V.
90
J. Dumangin Fils NV Premier Cru
Blanc de Blancs Premium Brut
(Champagne); $85. Pure, beautifully delicate
wine, with mineral striations that line out the
grapefruit and citrus flavors. It is certainly very
crisp, with a light touch of toast just showing, finishing
with a delicious burst of acidity. Imported
by Palateur Imports. —R.V.
90
Lallier NV Blanc de Blancs Grand
Cru Brut (Champagne); $75. Beautifully
perfumed Champagne, creamy and mineral
at the same time. It has the freshest green apple
character to go with a delicious rich, full flavor,
grapefruit juice and a tight texture. Imported by
Massanois Imports. —R.V.
90
Lallier NV Zero Dosage Grand Cru
Brut (Champagne); $84. Very dry,