BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

94
Marchesi di Barolo 2006 Sarmassa
(Barolo); $NA. Here’s an excellent
measuring stick with which to gauge some of the
world’s best Nebbiolo-based wines. This bright
Barolo from the Sarmassa cru delivers textbook
aromatic nuances of small berry, cinnamon, dried
currants, licorice and balsam freshness. Tight tannins
and a fine texture will enable longevity. Cellar
this wine ten years or more. Imported by
Wine Wave. —M.L.
94
Massolino 2006 Margheria
(Barolo); $94. This is a rich and beautifully
extracted Barolo that opens with concentrated
aromas of toasted hazelnut, chocolate
fudge, cherry, licorice and exotic spice. In the
mouth, it offers firm, finely textured tannins and a
powerful but delicious finish. Imported by
Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.
94
Pio Cesare 2006 Ornato (Barolo);
$109. Barolo Ornato is a beautiful wine:
rich in flavor, intensity and personality. You can
taste the quality of the fruit here thanks to the
pristine notes of cherry, wild berry, spice and ginger
that emerge from the nose. Oak notes of
vanilla and cinnamon are nicely integrated and
folded within the wine’s dense, supple texture.
Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines
USA. —M.L.
94
Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2006 Nei
Cannubi (Barolo); $100. Nei Cannubi
from Poderi Einaudi is textbook Barolo; the
kind of wine you can bank on for an elegant and
enlightening drinking experience. You see that,
here, all the elements are perfectly in place and
stacked for maximum pleasure. Aromas of blue
flower, berry and shaved mineral build in
intensity and the wine is determined and persistent
on the palate. Imported by Empson (USA)
Ltd. —M.L.
94
Renato Ratti 2006 Marcenasco
(Barolo); $50. Dark in color with a
modern style and velvety extraction, the gorgeous
Marcenasco expression of Barolo is redolent of
blackberries, cherries, spice, leather and tobacco.
The finish is long and elegant but not without
power and determination. Keep this wine cellared
for ten years plus. Imported by Dreyfus,
Ashby & Co. —M.L.
94
Rivetto 2006 Serralunga (Barolo);
$NA. Rivetto has delivered an impressive
portfolio this year with vineyard-designate
Barolos and a stellar Riserva. This Serralunga
expression is ripe with generous, velvety fruit
tones and loads of mineral, cola and spice. The
wine shows balance and personality and definitely
has the qualities needed for long aging. Imported
by Vintage Imports, Inc. —M.L.
94
Schiavenza 2004 Broglio Riserva
(Barolo); $NA. Riserva Broglio Barolo
from Schiavenza opens with generous tones of
red berry fruit, spice, vanilla, polished mineral,
licorice and cola. It is already showing some delicate
tertiary aromas and, in the mouth, you can
feel the fine texture of the tannins. Hold five
more years. —M.L.
94
Schiavenza 2004 Prapò Riserva
(Barolo); $NA. Riserva Barolo Prapò
delivers modern oak tones followed by nice
integrity of fruit and well-integrated aromas of
spice, prune, blackberry and cola. The mouthfeel
is very velvety and smooth and the tannins show
an extreme fine grain quality. Hold ten years or
more. —M.L.
94
Silvio Grasso 2006 Ciabot Manzoni
(Barolo); $NA. Barolo Ciabot
Manzoni is a tremendous wine with rich notes of
cherry, vanilla and chocolate. Yes, it’s a bold, modern
wine but there’s no denying the quality and
beauty here. Give it more time in the cellar to
allow those oak notes to integrate and give more
prominence to the sophisticated aromas of wild
berries, mineral, cola and licorice that are generously
present. A Marc de Grazia selection; various
American importers. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
94
Silvio Grasso 2006 Bricco Luciani
(Barolo); $NA. Here’s a wine that
shows careful craftsmanship in both the vineyard
and the winery. Silvio Grasso’s Barolo Bricco
Luciani is a bold and expertly extracted wine with
heft and determination that is in no way overdone.
You’ll identify aromas of spice, smoke, cinnamon
and clove lavished over a bright core of
blackberry and plum. The wine also offers interesting
earthy tones, with smoked or cured meat
nuances. A Marc de Grazia selection; various
American importers. —M.L.
94
Tenuta Duecorti 2006 Due Corti
(Barolo); $NA. This is an impressive
Barolo by a wine company (with superstar consulting
enologist Carlo Ferrini at the head of
winemaking) that is relatively new to the scene.
Due Corti proves this winery knows what it’s
doing. Aromas of red rose, violet and exotic spice
come forward immediately. Indeed, this is an
extremely floral and perfumed wine with silky,
smooth tannins. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
94
Viberti 2006 Rocchettevino
(Barolo); $NA. Here’s a super-modern,
piacione (roughly translated from the Italian as
“no one can resist it”) wine with deep layers of
vanilla, toast, roasted espresso bean, blackberry,
balsam notes, smoke, spice and tar. The wine is
thick and soft in the mouth and almost ready to
drink now (or in five years). The finish is delicious
with a long cherry-flavored fade. —M.L.
93
Agostino Bosco 2006 La Serra
(Barolo); $50. This Barolo from the La
Serra vineyard in La Morra really hits all the right
marks. The wine is rich, complex and enticing
with aromas of cherry, mesquite, herbs, tar, earth
and cassis. It’s elegant and traditional with a
bright tonic finish. What’s really nice is that the
wine is not too big. It’s just right. Imported by
Tanaro River Imports LLC. —M.L.
93
Andrea Oberto 2006 Vigneto Rocche
(Barolo); $NA. Here’s a dark,
thick expression of Nebbiolo that is enhanced by
modern touches of vanilla, espresso bean and
sweet Christmas spice. There are background
notes here of smoked ham, prune and earth and
this beautiful wine radiates elegance and complexity.
Pair it with gourmet Kobe beef. Imported
by Chambers & Chambers. —M.L.
93
Aurelio Settimo 2006 Rocche
(Barolo); $NA. Barolo Rocche scored
considerably higher than Aurelio Settimo’s base
Barolo this year and would make a wonderful
addition to your cellar. This is a gorgeous wine
with impressive intensity and penetrating aromas
of balsam, chopped mint, forest berry, underbrush
and white mushroom. It’s elegant and compact
in the mouth with a long, firm finish.
Imported by Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L.
93
Bel Colle 2004 Monvigliero Riserva
(Barolo); $69. This is a very
impressive Riserva that shows personality and
longevity. Tar, asphalt and licorice notes are
enhanced by delicate tones of balsam, cola and
candied orange peel. In the mouth, this Barolo is
a real charmer: the fullness and long persistency
will win you over. Drink after 2015. Imported by
Aventine Hill LLC. —M.L.
W i n e M a g . c o m | 1 9