BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING I GUIDE
90
Judith Beck 2007 Schafleiten St.
Laurent (Burgenland); $37. From
well-drained gravel soil, this is a structured wine,
flavored with red plums, red berries and firm tannins.
St Laurent is an underestimated grape, and
this wine shows its wonderful, juicy potential.
Imported by Adventures In Wine. —R.V.
90
Kollwentz 2007 Eichkogel (Burgenland);
$55. A beautiful, smooth,
rich, intense wine, the structure clothed in great
ripe layers of fruit. Touches of paprika balance
with lively acidity and fresh berry flavors.
Imported by Vos Selections. —R.V.
85
Zull 2009 Lust & Laune Red
(Niederösterreich); $14. Light Beaujolais
in style, very fruity, packed with red cherry
and juicy spice. It is bright, vivid to taste. Try
serving just chilled. Imported by Magellan Wine
Imports. —R.V.
ROSÉ WINES
86
Zull 2009 Lust & Laune Rosé
(Niederösterreich); $14. Touched by
caramel, this is a bone-dry rosé, very crisp and
fruity, with raspberry, red cherry. Imported by
Magellan Wine Imports. —R.V.
84
Gritsch Mauritiushof 2009 Kalmuck
Pink Zweigelt (Niederösterreich);
$17. Fresh, strawberry-flavored wine—a bright,
crisp, dry rosé, finishing with light acidity.
Imported by Winemonger. —R.V.
AUSTRIA
WHITE WINES
GRÜNER VELTLINER
93
Markus Huber 2009 Berg Grüner
Veltliner Reserve (Traisental); $NA.
A firm and closed wine, packed with quince, pear,
spice held in a mineral structure. It is potentially
rich, but is still closed, needing several months
to broaden out in all its richness. Imported by
Circo Vino. —R.V.
92
Gritsch Mauritiushof 2009 Singerriedel
Grüner Veltliner Smaragd
(Wachau); $40. A very focused wine with a
core of strong structure along with apple, tight
acidity and citrus. This is powerful, intense, with
impressive aging potential. Imported by
Winemonger. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
91
Gritsch Mauritiushof 2009 Steinporz
Grüner Veltliner Smaragd
(Wachau); $42. Initially smooth and rich, this
slowly reveals a taut mineral character that acts as
a powerful structure. Yellow fruits and mangos
are woven into this texture, leaving the final acidity
to suggest aging potential. Imported by
Winemonger. —R.V.
91
Markus Huber 2009 Alte Setzen
Grüner Veltliner Reserve (Traisen-
tal); $NA. Smooth and rich, with ripe, spiced
peach as well as a mineral edge. The acidity tightens
the generous texture of this powerful wine,
leaving the concentration deliciously fresh.
Imported by Circo Vino. —R.V.
91
Norbert Bauer 2009 Haidberg
Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterre-
ich); $NA. A wood-aged Grüner, with a definite
toast and caramel element, concentrated ripe
plums and greengage. The aftertaste reveals
fresher fruit and acidity. Imported by Epicur
Wines. —R.V.
91
Zull 2009 Aussere Bergen Grüner
Veltliner (Niederösterreich); $24.
Planted with cuttings from many Austrian wine
regions, the Aussere Bergen vineyard produces a
ripe, full wine, packed with yellow fruits, spice
and a feeling of opulence, while always balanced.
Imported by Magellan Wine Imports. —R.V.
90
Norbert Bauer 2009 Kellerberg
Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel);
$NA. From cool vineyards, this is an impressive,
steely, crisp wine, mineral in texture, with tight
fruit, fresh but always in tension. Imported by
Epicur Wines. —R.V.
89
Gritsch Mauritiushof 2009 Singerriedel
Grüner Veltliner Federspiel
(Wachau); $27. Very mineral in character, this
tastes of the stones of the steep Singerriedel
vineyard. The wine shows tight texture—acidity
along with green fruit flavors. The aftertaste
brings out citrus freshness. Imported by
Winemonger. —R.V.
89
Josef Ehmoser 2009 Hohenberg
Grüner Veltliner (Wagram-
Donauland); $21. A beautifully rich wine,
4 2 | W I N E E N T H U S I A S T | D E C E M B E R 1 , 2 0 1 0
packed with pear juice and light acidity. The soft
texture balances well with ripe green plum flavors
and a final creamy character. Imported by
Magellan Wine Imports. —R.V.
88
Gritsch Mauritiushof 2009
Axpoint Grüner Veltliner Federspiel
(Wachau); $20. In a ripe style, this is
soft, with creamed apple and pear flavors,
smooth and light. There is a touch of attractive
spice to go with the final acidity. Imported by
Winemonger. —R.V.
88
Zull 2009 Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel);
$17. A powerful, full and ripe
style that still manages to preserve bright apple
and green herb flavors. Crisp fruit and mineral
combine harmoniously. Imported by Magellan
Wine Imports. —R.V.
87
Josef Ehmoser 2009 Von den Terrassen
Grüner Veltliner (Wagram-
Donauland); $14. Soft and fresh style of wine
that feels full without losing its light touch. Delicious
baked apple and nutmeg flavors finish this
bright wine. Imported by Magellan Wine
Imports. —R.V.
87
Norbert Bauer 2009 Altenberg
Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich);
$15. Very fresh, crisp fruit, light and with a
soft, green plum skin texture. The aftertaste is
lively, bright. Imported by Epicur Wines. —R.V.
86
Gritsch Mauritiushof 2009
Kalmuck Grüner Veltliner Feder-
spiel (Wachau); $20. Attractive fresh fruit,
crisp apples and vivid acidity make a great citrus
wine, perfect as an apéritif. Imported by
Winemonger. —R.V.
86
Zull 2009 Lust & Laune Grüner
Veltliner (Niederösterreich); $14.
Fresh and light, with acidity, citrus and grapefruit
flavors plus a touch of pear. Imported by Magellan
Wine Imports. —R.V.
RIESLING
93
Markus Huber 2009 Berg Riesling
Reserve (Traisental); $NA. A beauti-
ful wine that sings out with its delicious fruits and
tight, mineral structure. It has a purity of line,
citrus and apple flavors vying with spice. The