BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Gainey 2008 Limited Selection
95 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $48. An
absolutely lovely Pinot, the best in Gainey’s long
career. Dry, smooth and silky, it defines Pinot’s
more Burgundian side, with mushroomy notes
along with perfectly ripe cherries and raspberries,
accented with brilliant acidity. The oak treatment
is tasteful and blends in seamlessly, offering
a hint of toast. The wine treads an exciting line
between ripeness and earthiness, while keeping
alcohol to a refreshingly low 14.1%. This is a connoisseur’s
wine. Editors’ Choice.
95
Henriot 1998 Millésimé Brut
(Champagne); $95. Just touching
maturity, this is a wonderful wine. With intense
acidity, yeast, minerality and a beautiful final citrus
texture, this is ready to drink but will age for
many years. Imported by Henriot Inc.
95
Laurent-Perrier 1998 Grand Siècle
Alexandra Brut Rosé (Champagne);
$390. A wonderful wine that has preserved its
freshness while welcoming elements of toasty maturity.
It is crisp, definitely on the dry side, with red
currants, bright wild strawberries over the purest
acidity. It’s sure to age over many years, but, if you
must, can be drunk now. Imported by Laurent-Perrier
U.S. Cellar Selection.
94
Alpha Omega 2007 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $82.
There’s a tannic toughness to this young wine. It’s
like chewing on dried black currants. Once they
start to dissolve in the mouth, lovely flavors of
sweet blackberries emerge, and then take over
through a very long, spicy finish. It’s quite a beautiful
Napa Cabernet, but it does need time. Best
2013–2019. Cellar Selection.
94
94
Cakebread 2006 Dancing
Bear Ranch Cabernet
Sauvignon (Howell Mountain);
$105. This is a very rich wine. Complex,
too. With every sip, it seems to
offer a little more of itself. On the
surface, it’s dry, tannic and fruity,
with blackberry, black currant, dark
chocolate and cedar flavors. But it
has mineral and herb nuances that
seem to spring from the soil, and the
depth and finish are impressive.
Drinkable now for sheer luxury, and
should continue to develop over the
next decade.
Chimney Rock 2007 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Stags Leap District);
$61. This is Chimney Rock’s best Stags Leap
Cabernet since the 2005, and continues a string of
successful vintages. Dry and smooth and silky in
the mouth, it’s pretty tannic, but very rich, offering
waves of cherry, blackberry, blueberry, cocoa and
sweet cedar flavors. Absolutely delicious, wonderfully
elegant, and should age well for a decade.
94
Dumas Station
2006 Minnick Hills
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla); $60.
Rich, concentrated, and loaded
with smoky, dark, spicy fruit
flavors, this is a full-on Bordeaux
blend, with Cabernet
Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot.
There’s plenty of barrel
influence, from 70% new
French oak, but it’s welcome,
and appropriate, perfectly matched to the power of
the fruit. An underlayer of woodsy earth and mushroom
adds further complexity. Cellar Selection.
94
Elvio Cogno 2006 Cascina Nuova
(Barolo); $45. Wow, what a wonderful
wine, delivering rich notes of black fruit, vanilla,
cherry and spice. But the aromas are in no way obvious.
In fact, this is an ethereal and elegant wine that
pays attention to the little details, like the light shadings
of polished stone and violets that liven up the
long finish. Drink after 2018. Imported by Vias
Imports. Cellar Selection.
94
Justin 2007 Isosceles Reserve
(Paso Robles); $95. A tremendous
wine that easily held its own against Napa Cabs
and blends, and a worthy followup to the wonderful
2006. Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with
small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Merlot,
the wine is extraordinarily rich and balanced and
refined, showing Paso softness, but no absence
of complexity. Really impresses for the depth and
range of berries, currants, licorice, mocha, herbs,
spices and oak. Now–2015.
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