BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING GUIDE
Champagne
STILL THE ULTIMATE SPARKLING WINE
D
espite all of the time and energy
invested all over the world, one
sparkling wine still stands as the
benchmark by which all others are
judged. Credit the Champenois for
their know-how, their terroir or—more cynically—their
marketing, but give them credit
nonetheless, for Champagne is to most people
the ne plus ultra of sparkling wines.
And among the rarefied world of luxury
cuvées, that certainly remains the case. Krug’s
1998 Clos du Mesnil grabs the crown among this
year’s releases, scoring that elusive perfect 100point
rating, but other wines aren’t far behind.
Bollinger, Dom Perignon, Henriot, Taittinger—
all garner 96 points or more in this issue’s Buying
Guide. Wines at this transcendent level of quality
are fun to read about, even if we can’t afford to
drink them every day. Maybe we can get away
VINTAGE CHAMPAGNES
PRIOR TO 2000
100
Krug 1998 Clos du Mesnil
(Champagne); $1,400. A wine
that has created its own universe. It has a
unique, special softness that allies with the total
purity that comes from a small, enclosed single
vineyard. The fruit is almost irrelevant here,
because it comes as part of a much deeper complexity.
This is a great wine, at the summit of
Champagne, a sublime, unforgettable experience.
Imported by Moët Hennessy USA. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
99
Moët & Chandon 1996 Dom
Pérignon Oenothèque Brut
(Champagne); $385. A magnificent Champagne,
one that is light, delicate, yet packed with
character. It is beautifully balanced, with a bonedry
character, just softened by the toastiness that
is developing. Expect this to age for many years.
Imported by Moët Hennessy USA. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
98
Henriot 1995 Cuvée des
Enchanteleurs Brut (Champagne);
$170. A glorious Champagne, now at
the peak of its powers and maturity. It is rich,
creamy, lightly toasty, cookies and yeast pro-
with just one splurge around the holidays?
If your vinous preferences include ageworthy
red wines, turn to Italian Editor Monica Larner’s
latest reviews of Piedmont’s Barolo and Barbaresco.
These are wines that can age gracefully
for 20 years or more when cellared properly, and
the best time to buy them is on release, so that
you can be certain your bottle has been well
cared for when you open it up in 2025. From
Arborina to Villero in Barolo and Asili to Santo
Stefano in Barbaresco, you’re almost guaranteed
to find your favorite cru represented here.
Elsewhere in this month’s Buying Guide, you’ll
also find reviews of wines from Austria and Eastern
Europe, California, Washington and Chile.
Remember to check out our online Buying
Guide at buyingguide.winemag.com, as only a
selection of wines reviewed for December
appear in print. Cheers! —JOE CZERWINSKI
pelling the fruits and acidity forward into a wonderful
texture. This wine confirms Henriot’s
place at the top tables of Champagne. Imported
by Henriot Inc. —R.V.
97
Bollinger 1997 RD Brut (Champagne);
$260. Disgorged in 2009, this
is a toasty wine, rich and concentrated. The idea
of long aging before disgorging the yeast cells is
to build up the unique complexity of the wine. In
this Bollinger has succeeded magnificently. An
opulent wine, with aging potential for 10 years or
more. Imported by Terlato Wines International.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
97
Henriot 1996 Cuvée des
Enchanteleurs Brut (Champagne);
$185. With all the extreme intensity of this vintage,
this wine brings even more. The start of
cookie yeast and toast character, a vibrant mineral
texture, hints of spice, green herbs and a
final white peach flavor. It is still young, just keep
aging. Imported by Henriot Inc. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
96
Krug 1998 Brut (Champagne);
$350. Although the aromas are toasty,
the flavors are still so fresh, rich, complex. This
is a wonderful expression of taut minerality,
pure citrus zest and then a wood-toast character
that gives the wine both richness and sophistica-
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97
Henriot 1996 Cuvée des
Enchanteleurs Brut
(Champagne); $185. With all the
extreme intensity of this vintage, this
wine brings even more. The start
of cookie yeast and toast character,
a vibrant mineral texture,
hints of spice, green herbs and a
final white peach flavor. It is
still young, just keep aging.
Imported by Henriot Inc.
Cellar Selection.
Louis Roederer 2004 Cristal Brut
(Champagne); $229. Exceptionally
rich and dense, an exceptional wine that reveals
itself in layers, from the first fruit attack to the
mineral texture and the way it gradually fills the
mouth. Selected from old vines, there is a great
flavor in this wine, with the promise of many
years’ aging. Imported by Maisons Marques &
Domaines USA. Cellar Selection.
95
Ceretto 2005 Bricco Rocche Bricco
Rocche (Barolo); $252. Nebbiolo
grapes, with their naturally elegant aromas of
black currant and licorice, speak loudly. So does
winery magic: Tones of spice, leather, cola and
tobacco are derived from 24 months of careful
oak aging. The tannins are fine and tight and this
wine will age ten years or more. Imported by
Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection.