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BUYING I GUIDE wine shows good concentration and excellent persistency of flavor with lingering nuances of spice and berry with bright acidity and dry tannins. Imported by Italia Wine Imports. —M.L. 90 Montaribaldi 2007 Sorì Montaribaldi (Barbaresco); $NA. With 47 acres of vine, the Taliano family presents a thickly concentrated expression of Nebbiolo with pulpy fruit notes of cassis and blackberry. There’s a bit of smoked ham, wet earth, vanilla and white truffle in there as well and the wine closes with a dense, velvety finish. —M.L. 90 Pertinace 2007 Marcarini (Barbaresco); $49. Garnet ruby with orange highlights—characteristic coloring of the Nebbiolo grape—give this wine an elegant, classic appearance. Aromas focus on dried berries, spice and licorice and the wine is polished, smooth and firm in the mouth. Pair it with braised meat or lamb stew. Imported by MW Imports. —M.L. 90 Piazzo Armando 2007 Fratin (Barbaresco); $40. Graphite notes of pencil shaving, polished river stone and slate make for a beautifully mineral-driven nose. You’ll also get very ripe notes of cherry and raspberry backed by opulent shadings of new leather and black tar. Imported by Angelini Wine. —M.L. 90 Piazzo Armando 2005 Nervo Vigna Giaia Riserva (Barbaresco); $45. This Riserva Barbaresco presents thick extraction and an orange tinge to its garnet-ruby color. Aromas here recall spice, earth, tar, licorice and subtle fresh fruit nuances. The natural acidity and bone-dry tannins suggest this wine should stay lively for more years to come. Imported by Angelini Wine. —M.L. 90 Produttori del Barbaresco 2005 Pora Riserva (Barbaresco); $70. Here’s a bright and very polished Riserva Barbaresco with clean and focused aromas of white cherry, cola, wild berries and dried currants. This expression from the Pora cru (known for its cellar-worthy wines) shows good acidity and drying tannins. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. 90 Produttori del Barbaresco 2006 (Barbaresco); $35. This historic producer sources some of the best local fruit for its elegant Barbaresco. Aromas include cassis, dried blueberry and cola, but there’s also a good dose of licorice, spice and dark smoke. The wine shows excellent texture with firm, drying tannins and a bright, polished feel. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. 90 Produttori del Barbaresco 2007 (Barbaresco); $37. Smoke, barbecue and tar emerge from the nose of this ethereal and elegant Barbaresco. You’ll also get delicate fruity notes of pressed wild berries and white cherry. The wine is tart and fresh with drying tannins and a polished feel. Pair it with boiled beef and mint sauce. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. 90 Rizzi 2007 Pajoré (Barbaresco); $58. This unique Barbaresco delivers power and personality with aromas of cherry liqueur, tar, asphalt, mesquite and slight touches of barbecue smoke. More than fruity aromas, you get floral ones here, especially red rose and violet. In the mouth, the wine is silky, tight and fresh. Imported by Opici Import Company. —M.L. 90 Terre da Vino 2007 La Casa in Collina (Barbaresco); $NA. Terre da Vino is a massive presence in the Langhe, representing some 11,000 acres of vines and 2,500 growers. The winery produces excellent Barbera and classic expressions of Barbaresco like this wine. Aromas include red berries, wild flowers, tar, licorice and spice. The wine is polished, clean, persistent and focused. Imported by International Wine Traders. —M.L. 89 Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa 2007 Tettineive (Barbaresco); $NA. Tet- tineive Barbaresco shows nice integration of wood and fruit. The wine offers elegance over intensity and although all the aromas are clean and correct, there is a slight point of dried dill or chopped herb in the background. —M.L. 89 Ca’ del Baio 2007 Valgrande (Barbaresco); $44. Here’s an up-and-com- ing Langhe producer who has already made a big splash with the Italian wine press. Valgrande is the estate’s most traditional Barbaresco aged in big oak casks. This vintage offers mature notes of wild berries and plum followed by elegant shadings of pipe tobacco and old spice. It shows medium persistency with drying tannins. Imported by Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L. 89 Cascina Luisin 2007 Rabajà (Barbaresco); $26. This Barbaresco from the celebrated Rabajà cru presents aromas that 3 4 | W I N E E N T H U S I A S T | D E C E M B E R 1 , 2 0 1 0 are typical of the Nebbiolo grape: pressed blue flowers, tar, licorice, currants and wet earth. The presentation is correct but lacks specific definition although the wine is bright, polished and more focused in the mouth. Imported by Zig Zagando. —M.L. 89 La Spinona 2007 Bricco Faset (Barbaresco); $NA. Smoke, toast, mesquite and barbecue tones emerge from the nose of this nicely concentrated Barbaresco from La Spinona. There’s not much fruit here as the wine’s aromas are mostly occupied by the secondary perfumes acquired through wood aging. Expect those to evolve and become more ethereal with time. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. 89 Pasquale Pelissero 2007 Bricco San Giuliano (Barbaresco); $30. This is a delicate, feminine expression of Nebbiolo with pretty layers of spice and forest fruit surrounded by tar, graphite and white stone. In the mouth, the wine is firm and fresh. There is a slightly tart or raw note that will soften with more time in the bottle. Imported by Grape Expectations (CA). —M.L. 89 Pertinace 2007 Vigneto Nervo (Barbaresco); $49. From the Vigneto Nervo cru of Barbaresco, this well-concentrated wine delivers notes of dark spice, leather, tobacco, mesquite wood and oak. The natural aromas associated with Nebbiolo are still buried, so give this wine time to unwind with a few more years of cellar aging. In the mouth, it shows soft, meaty fruit with a smooth, velvety texture. Imported by MW Imports. —M.L. 89 Produttori del Barbaresco 2005 Rio Sordo Riserva (Barbaresco); $70. Black spice, root beer, tar and a touch of smoke are backed by prune, plum and dried currants. You’ll also recognize aromas of green olive or caper and this Riserva Barbaresco is very elegant and feminine overall. Don’t wait too long to drink this wine, it’s at its height now. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. 89 Prunotto 2007 (Barbaresco); $50. With fruit sourced from Barbaresco, Treiso and Neive, this elegant wine will surprise you with its aromatic intensity. Bright aromas of cinnamon, clove, black pepper and mature currant pop out on the nose. Subtle shades of licorice, prune and tobacco appear in the back-
ground and the wine is bright, firm and enduring in the mouth. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. 89 Rizzi 2007 Nervo Fondetta (Barbaresco); $49. The Rizzi family of Barbaresco does amazing work with its specific vineyard crus. One of its best sites is the Fondetta vineyard, although this vintage seems more nervous and raw than in past years. Clover, spice and green capers are some of the more interesting aromatic characteristics of this wine. You’ll also get bright fruit and lemon zest on the close. Imported by Opici Import Company. —M.L. 88 Bel Colle 2007 Roncaglie (Barbaresco); $53. This bright Barbaresco aged in oak and chestnut barrel shows focused aromas of cherry, wild berry and white almond backed by spice and leather. The intensity of the aromas is not huge, but the wine is compact and neatly focused overall. Drink it with pheasant or game hen. Imported by Aventine Hill LLC. —M.L. 88 Bricco Grilli 2007 Serragrilli (Barbaresco); $NA. This Barbaresco from the Serragrilli cru in Neive delivers raw notes of Spanish cedar, chopped fruit and carrot backed by touches of citrus zest and cola. The wine is ripe, chewy and thick in the mouth with a velvety finish. —M.L. 88 Cascina delle Rose 2007 Tre Stelle (Barbaresco); $68. Here’s a light and elegant Barbaresco from the 2007 vintage with focused tones of spice, orange rind, tobacco and drying mineral. The wine is thin and compact with bright acidity that makes for an excellent match to oven-roasted pasta with delicate veal ragù. Imported by George Wines. —M.L. 88 Cascina Morassino 2007 Morassino (Barbaresco); $57. Here’s a genuine and fresh expression of Barbaresco with loads of fruit-driven aromas including cherry, cassis, raspberry and fresh plum. There’s great acidity and brightness too and the wine finishes with tart berry flavor on the close. Imported by Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections. —M.L. 88 Dante Rivetti 2005 Bricco Riserva (Barbaresco); $56. This Riserva expression of Barbaresco opens with a light ruby color and charred aromas of wood, spice and smoke. You’ll also identify cherry cola, tar, licorice and violet. The mouthfeel is silky with an enduring impression of smoked meat flavors on the finish. Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. 88 Grasso Fratelli 2007 Vallegrande (Barbaresco); $NA. Here is a very nicely balanced Barbaresco with sweet spice notes and plump fruit tones of wild berry, cherry and blackberry. What the wine offers in harmony, it lacks in overt intensity: it shows flat, broad character in the mouth with wet earth and mineral tones on the finish. —M.L. 88 La Ca’ Nova 2007 Montestefano (Barbaresco); $52. Three brothers, Pietro, Giulio and Franco, collaborate on this garnet-colored Barbaresco with classic Nebbiolo fragrances of wet earth, wild berries and pressed violets. The aromatic nuances are a bit muddled at first but the wine’s mouthfeel is bright and fresh. Imported by Tricana Imports. —M.L. 88 Nada Giuseppe 2005 Casot Riserva (Barbaresco); $NA. This light and compact Barbaresco Riserva offers ethereal notes of spice, root beer, white berry and wet earth. There’s a hint of clove, cinnamon and natural rubber as well and the wine is smooth, polished and firm on the close. Imported by Bayfield Importing Ltd. —M.L. 87 Cascina delle Rose 2007 Rio Sordo (Barbaresco); $64. This tight and firm Barbaresco from the Rio Sordo cru exhibits an orange tinge to its garnet color and shows aromas of licorice, exotic spice, old leather and dried tobacco leaf. The wine seems older than it actually is, but those polished tannins should pull it forward a few more years at least. Imported by George Wines. —M.L. 87 Vigin 2007 Noemy (Barbaresco); $NA. Founded by Orlando Viglino in 1947 and now run by grandson Davide, Vigin produces a light, garnet-colored Barbaresco with sharp aromatic accents that include red apple, tar, wet earth, slate and mineral tones backed by plum and dried prune. It offers bright acidity, firm tannins and a thin consistency. Imported by Domace Vino. —M.L. 84 Feyles 2007 Barbaresco; $NA. This Barbaresco opens with an awkward aroma of bruised apple skin followed by cola, lemon zest and spice. From an aromatic point of view, the wine makes a direct and immediate impact and in the mouth, it imparts gritty, earthytasting tannins. —M.L. ROERO 89 Cascina Chicco 2006 Valmaggiore Riserva (Roero); $38. Here’s a ripe and soft expression of Roero Riserva with jammy notes of strawberry and raspberry folded within drying aromas of black mineral and exotic spice. Those telltale tannins are present although this expression is slightly more supple and plush. Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. 89 Giovanni Almondo 2006 Giovanni Almondo Riserva (Roero); $NA. This Roero Riserva delivers a sophisticated nose with deep layers of spice, dark fruit and pressed flowers. The wine is bright and clean in the mouth with extremely drying tannins and lingering smoke and toast nuances. —M.L. 89 Matteo Correggia 2006 Roche d’Ampsej Riserva (Roero); $NA. Wood tones of leather, spice and tobacco are folded within dark berry fruit, cassis and blue flower to create a well-rounded and balanced Roero Riserva. You still get those distinctively drying tannins on the close although this expression puts more emphasis on softness and succulence. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. 88 Angelo Negro & Figli 2006 Sudisfà Riserva (Roero); $NA. Smoke, ash and graphite notes form an elegant frame to wild berries, orange zest and blue flowers. Cherry wood and mesquite appear in the mouth and the wine is capped by tight, drying tannins. Imported by Nardone Wine. —M.L. 88 Cascina Cà Rossa 2007 Audinaggio (Roero); $39. This Roero offers very good intensity of aromas that are characterized by layers of white cherry, wild berry and exotic spice. The wine offers a soft, velvety feel in the mouth although those tight tannins definitely appear on the close. Imported by Vinity Wine Company. —M.L. 88 Cascina Val del Prete 2007 Bricco Medica (Roero); $46. Bricco Medica Roero offers beautiful aromas of blue flowers, tangerine skin and cassis berry. It’s a tad softer than other expressions although the finish is tan- W i n e M a g . c o m | 3 5
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Page 3 and 4: Gainey 2008 Limited Selection 95 Pi
Page 5 and 6: Marcarini 2006 Brunate (Barolo); 93
Page 7 and 8: L’Ecole No. 41 2007 Merlot 91 (Co
Page 9 and 10: Tangent 2009 Paragon Vineyard 91 Sa
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Page 15 and 16: packed with grapefruit juice flavor
Page 17 and 18: PIEDMONT RED WINES BAROLO 97 Rivett
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Page 21 and 22: 93 Grimaldi Bruna 2006 Badarina (Ba
Page 23 and 24: 92 Giacomo Grimaldi 2006 Le Coste (
Page 25 and 26: plum, prune and spice cake. Clay so
Page 27 and 28: is drying and firmly tannic. Import
Page 29 and 30: chestnuts and sage. Imported by Sco
Page 31 and 32: delivers impressive extraction and
Page 33: and drying mineral. It’s an elega
Page 37 and 38: 84 Marco Porello 2007 Torretta (Roe
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Page 41 and 42: a firm, refreshing and spicy feel t
Page 43 and 44: wine finishes with high, vibrant ac
Page 45 and 46: 86 Heritage 2008 Blanc de Blancs (B
Page 47 and 48: weight and density. Give it a few y
Page 49 and 50: fruit. It offers waves of cherries,
Page 51 and 52: 88 Starmont 2007 Merlot (Napa Valle
Page 53 and 54: structured, but a delicious Pinot f
Page 55 and 56: 87 Rangeland 2007 Zinfandel (Paso R
Page 57 and 58: creamy notes to the underlying pine
Page 59 and 60: 87 Farrier 2008 Hay Hook Sauvignon
Page 61 and 62: 88 Schramsberg 2007 Blanc de Blancs
Page 63 and 64: 89 Fidelitas 2006 Optu Red Wine (Co
Page 65 and 66: 88 Nefarious Cellars 2008 Defiance
Page 67 and 68: peachy fruit, honeysuckle and Engli
Page 69 and 70: 87 Korta 2009 Estate Bottled Cabern
Page 71 and 72: grape and price should smell like.
Page 73 and 74: 86 Santa Rita 2006 Reserva Shiraz (
Page 75 and 76: Viña La Rosa 2009 La Palma Sauvi-
Page 77 and 78: 89 Scorpion Mezcal Anejo 1 Year (Sc
Page 79: an English old ale: sweet dark frui

BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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