BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

and drying mineral. It’s an elegant and refined
wine with noticeable acidity and a sharp finish,
yet the 2007 summer heat shows up in the wine’s
flavors and fleshy aromas. Imported by Michael
Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
90
Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2007
Sanadaive (Barbaresco); $NA.
Here’s a sharp, focused expression of Nebbiolo
with aromas of caper and green olive backed by
characteristic aromas of pressed violets, tar and
spice. The wine is firm and drying in the mouth
and shows the best traits of traditional, territorydriven
Barbaresco. Imported by Monsieur Touton
Selection Ltd. —M.L.
90
Barale Fratelli 2007 Serraboella
(Barbaresco); $NA. The historic Barale
Fratelli estate offers this bright Barbaresco
from the Serraboella cru. The beautiful wine is
pristine and tight with loads of berry fruit and
spice. It’s tart, spicy and clean on the finish. Pair it
with ravioli with lamb-based meat sauce.
Imported by Lo Duca Bros. —M.L.
90
Ca’ del Baio 2007 Asili (Barbaresco);
$44. This pretty Barbaresco
from the Asili cru offers bright fruit intensity with
layers of white cherry, wild blueberry and plum.
Those fresh tones are backed by softer shadings
of smoke, spice and mineral. The wine is focused,
sharp and firm on the long finish. Imported by
Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L.
90
Ca’ du Rabajà 2007 (Barbaresco);
$24. Known for its panoramic, familyrun
bed & breakfast, Ca’ du Rabajà’s base Barbaresco
offers a light, bright appearance with
aromas of white chocolate, vanilla, orange zest
and wild berry. There’s smoke, licorice and tar in
there as well and the wine offers a tart but drying
finish. Imported by Rare Wine Company. —M.L.
90
Ca’Romè 2007 Söri Rio Sordo (Barbaresco);
$87. The 2007 Söri Rio
Sordo is far more impressive than the 2006 edition.
Warm temperatures and a long growing season
have surely played an important part in
developing the aromas of black fruit, sweet spice,
plum and dried prune that come forward. The
wine shows elegance and integration with a firm,
unyielding tannic structure. Imported by Empson
(USA) Ltd. —M.L.
90
Cascina Morassino 2007 Ovello
(Barbaresco); $45. The steep Ovello
vineyard overlooks the hilltop hamlet of Barbaresco
and beautifully trellised countryside. This
cru expression shows aromas of spice, mesquite,
cedar, clove and black fruit. In addition, there are
distinguishable aromas of blue flower and green
olive, backed by silky tannins and a smooth but
drying finish. Imported by Fourcade & Hecht
Wine Selections. —M.L.
90
Cascina Saria 2007 (Barbaresco);
$30. Cascina Saria is a relatively new
producer in the Langhe, although the family has
been growing grapes for generations. This Barbaresco
shows tart aromas of berry fruit and
white cherry, but it also offers accents of red
apple, spice, wet earth and smoked bacon.
There’s more heft and consistency in the mouth,
and the fruit flavors show the thick and chewy
qualities of a hot vintage. Imported by Baldocchino
Fine Wines. —M.L.
90
Castello di Verduno 2007 Rabajà
(Barbaresco); $65. Here’s a very ele-
gant and ethereal expression of Nebbiolo with
measured aromatic accents of drying mineral,
wild berries and Indian spice. This is a delicate
and feminine wine with freshness, tartness and a
very fine quality of tannin. Imported by Oliver
McCrum Wines. —M.L.
90
Ceretto 2006 Asij (Barbaresco);
$45. A little sister to the estate’s more
expensive Bricco Asili cru expression of Barbaresco,
this tonic, clean and firm wine is redolent
of black currant, cherry cola, wild raspberry,
violets, tar and Spanish cedar. It’s a firm, determined
and polished wine. Imported by Wilson
Daniels Ltd. —M.L.
90
Eredi Lodali 2007 Lorens (Barbaresco);
$75. Winemakers for many
long generations, the Lodali family (now with
Walter Lodali at the helm) is slowly penetrating
the international wine consciousness. The 2007
Lorens Barbaresco offers pronounced aromas of
smoke, tobacco, tar and licorice embellished by
red rose and violet. The wine is smooth, silky with
polished tannins and an elegant finish. Imported
by Siema LLC. —M.L.
90
Francone 2007 I Patriarchi (Barbaresco);
$NA. Fragrant and delicate,
with aromas of blue flower, scented candle, forest
berry, earth and perfume, this Barbaresco shows
the ethereal nature of Nebbiolo. It performs
beautifully in the mouth thanks to the smooth,
silky tannins. Imported by De Benedetto
Imports. —M.L.
90
Fratelli Casetta 2005 Riserva (Barbaresco);
$NA. This Riserva Barbaresco
from the warm 2005 vintage delivers
subtle hints of wild berry and cassis backed by
white truffle and earthy tones. At the far back are
aromas of dried beef or smoked ham and the
wine would pair well with veal in cream sauce.
The acidity and tannins should keep your palate
refreshed. Imported by Sober LLC. —M.L.
90
Giacosa Fratelli 2007 Basarin (Barbaresco);
$52. You’ll love this traditional
expression of Barbaresco and its excellent
balancing act between the elegance of its natural
fruit aromas and the spicy oak-related tones
that embellish it. There’s a touch of raw fruit or
citrus zest as well and the wine closes in a silky,
smooth fashion. Imported by Bedford International.
—M.L.
90
Giacosa Fratelli 2005 Basarin
Vigna Gianmaté (Barbaresco);
$52. This vineyard-designate Barbaresco shows
refined aromas of currant, cassis, tar, licorice,
white truffle and root beer. This wine offers
balance and intensity with a firm tannic close.
Drink after 2015. Imported by Bedford International.
—M.L.
90
Giuseppe Cortese 2007 Rabajà
(Barbaresco); $50. Giuseppe Cortese’s
bold Barbaresco from the Rabajà cru shows a
strong bouquet of spice, liquid smoke, mesquite
and cola. The natural fruit appears at the back
and the wine carries over the palate with enormous
freshness and intensity. Imported by
Winebow. —M.L.
90
Michele Chiarlo 2007 Asili (Barbaresco);
$40. The Asili cru is always a
top performer, and although this vintage from
acclaimed winemaker Michele Chiarlo is excellent,
it’s not quite outstanding. There’s a hint of
apple skin or orange zest that imparts a buoyant
and immediate disposition. It’s tight and bright
with fresh acidity but could use a little more pulp
to carry it through the years. Imported by
Kobrand. —M.L.
90
Molino 2007 Teorema (Barbaresco);
$NA. Here’s a powerful and
intense Barbaresco with tones of cherry liqueur,
spice, licorice, leather and espresso coffee. The
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