BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING I GUIDE
91
Livia Fontana 2006 (Barolo); $45.
From the Castiglione Falletto subzone,
this classic Barolo delivers delicate aromas of
spice, eucalyptus, root beer, hazelnut, underbrush
and smoked ham. You’ll even notice savory elements
of prosciutto or bresaola. The mouthfeel is
elegant and bright with drying tannins. Imported
by Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L.
91
Luigino Grimaldi 2006 Vigna San
Biagio (Barolo); $NA. This Barolo
delivers simple and clean fruit tones (think cherry
and raspberry) that are shrouded in delicate veils
of root beer, white mushroom, bresaola, shaved
mineral and dried herbs. On the whole, this is a
tight and compact wine that is elegant and complex.
Pair it with wild mushroom crepes with
creamy gruyère cheese. —M.L.
91
Marcarini 2006 La Serra (Barolo);
$57. Here’s an earthy, savory expression
of Barolo from the prized La Serra cru that truly
shows Nebbiolo typicity. You’ll recognize aromas
of iron and mineral backed by cola, white mushroom,
tar and cassis fruit. That earthy personality
is followed by drying, dusty tannins and the wine
is exceptionally long on the finish. Imported by
Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
91
Mario Gagliasso 2004 Riserva
(Barolo); $NA. Elegance and finesse
characterize this wine and suggest that it may
already be suitable to drink within the next five
years or so. Aromas include dark chocolate, tar,
espresso grinds and smoked beef. Those aged tertiary
fragrances are emerging now and the wine is
thick, firm and luscious on the close. Imported by
Acid Inc Selections. —M.L.
91
Mauro Veglio 2006 Castelletto
(Barolo); $50. Barolo Castelletto opens
with ripe aromas of blackberry and strawberry
with background tones of old leather, spice,
espresso bean, tar and root beer. There are drying
mineral tones as well and the wine ends with
young, slightly astringent tannins. Imported by
Wine Warehouse Imports. —M.L.
91
Michele Chiarlo 2006 Cannubi
(Barolo); $100. Here’s a light, bright
and tonic Cannubi-based Barolo that delivers aromas
of wild blueberry, white almond, spice, violets,
licorice and cherry cola. There’s a touch of
red apple in there as well and the wine washes
clean over the palate, imparting structure and
freshness along the way. Drink after 2015.
Imported by Kobrand. —M.L.
91
Monchiero 2006 Rocche (Barolo);
$NA. This Barolo with fruit sourced
from the Rocche cru in Castiglione Falletto offers
slightly aged aromas of old spice, candied fruit,
smoked ham and cured beef. The wine is elegant
and very drying on the finish. Hold until 2015.
Imported by Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.L.
91
Monti 2006 Barolo; $NA. Here is a
clean and straightforward Barolo from
the Monforte d’Alba area that offers feminine
aromas of blue flower, pressed rose, licorice, ginger
and root beer. The wine delivers a compact,
streamlined feel and a very polished, fine
finish. —M.L.
91
Nada Giuseppe 2006 Barolo; $NA.
Giuseppe Nada brings us a gorgeous
Barolo that oozes elegance and intensity. The
wine is redolent of tar, black currant, spice and
dried licorice powder. The tannins are drying and
fine and leave a long, polished sensation in the
mouth. It’s a very nice ensemble. Imported by
Bayfield Importing Ltd. —M.L.
91
Oddero 2006 Villero (Barolo); $65.
Putting your nose into a glass of Oddero
Barolo Villero is like sniffing a handful of Langhe
soil. This wine speaks highly of its territory with
aromas of smoke, earth, forest berry, white truffle,
hazelnut, cola, root beer, hummus and dried
apple skins. In the mouth, the tannins are impressively
polished and fine. Imported by Soilair
Selection. —M.L.
91
Paolo Manzone 2006 Meriame
(Barolo); $45. Barolo Meriame is a sur-
prisingly tonic and bright wine with a ruby color
and amber highlights. The wine is elegant and
smooth on the nose with wild berries, ginger,
hummus and powdered licorice. It finishes with
bright menthol and balsam nuances. Imported by
Grape Expectations (CA). —M.L.
91
Pecchenino 2006 San Giuseppe
(Barolo); $NA. Here’s a dark and
brooding Barolo that opens with masculine aromas
of dark fruit, Indian spice, black tea, tar, resin
and licorice. The intensity and complexity are
impressive. The wine needs five more years of
bottle aging to soften those young tannins.
Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
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91
Pecchenino 2006 Le Coste
(Barolo); $106. This expression of
Nebbiolo from the Le Coste vineyard opens with
fresh and vibrant aromas of cherries, raspberries
and cassis. Those fruit notes are enhanced by
spice, vanilla and smoky highlights that brighten
up the wine’s firm but streamlined mouthfeel.
Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
91
Poderi Colla 2006 Dardi Le Rose
Bussia (Barolo); $73. Despite its
young age now, the 2006 Dardi Le Rose Bussia
Barolo will go on record as a classy, charming
wine with long aging potential. The mineral
tones are well etched and are followed by luscious
layers of red fruit and spice. The tannins
still need time to soften. Imported by Empson
(USA) Ltd. —M.L.
91
Prunotto 2006 Barolo; $60.
Prunotto tends to exemplify a ripe,
almost jammy style of Barolo with succulent
cherry and smoked meat characteristics followed
by vanilla, cinnamon, mineral, blackberry and
licorice. The intensity is wonderful here but the
wine still needs a few extra aging years in the bottle
to relax those young tannins. Imported by
Winebow. —M.L.
91
Roccheviberti 2006 Rocche di Castiglione
(Barolo); $NA. Here’s a compact,
streamlined wine that very much lives up to
Barolo tradition. Aromas here include ethereal
balsam notes, eucalyptus, coffee, tar, black fruit,
mineral and honey-roasted ham. In the mouth,
the wine leaves a tight, tart and long-lasting
impression. Imported by Domace Vino. —M.L.
91
Scarzello 2006 Vigna Merenda
(Barolo); $56. Barolo Vigna Merenda
opens with a bright bouquet composed of cherry,
spice, floral and balsam elements. This is also an
extremely mineral-driven wine that exposes a
vein of graphite or crushed stone at its core.
Thanks to the wine’s natural structure and long
persistency, it would make a perfect pairing partner
to any dish with black truffles. Imported by
Vignaioli. —M.L.
91
Schiavenza 2006 Broglio (Barolo);
$NA. Broglio is a vineyard in the Serralunga
d’Alba area of the Langhe and this
expression of Nebbiolo offers a ruby color with
orange highlights, followed by aromas of cola,
wild berry, lemon zest and leather. The mouthfeel