BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING I GUIDE
92
Rocche Costamagna 2006 Bricco
Francesco (Barolo); $NA. Named
after the winery’s founder, Francesco Costamagna,
Bricco Francesco is a ripe and juicy Barolo
with pulpy fruit and intense aromas of cherry,
tobacco, strawberry and cola. There’s a bit of
vanilla and sweet spice as well and the wine is
generously textured with smooth tannins.
Imported by Laird & Company. —M.L.
92
Tenuta Arnulfo 2006 Costa di Bussia
(Barolo); $50. Here’s a very attractive
and seductive Barolo with chiseled mineral
tones that really help the wine stand out in a
crowd. Layers of graphite and slate give purity,
linearity and clarity to this austere and elegant
expression. Earthy tones, as well as forest berry
flavors, appear on the long finish. Imported by
Siena Imports. —M.L.
92
Tenuta Rocca 2006 Tenuta Rocca
(Barolo); $48. Founded in 1986,
Tenuta Rocca is a hilltop property in Monforte
d’Alba that overlooks some of the most beautiful
landscapes in the Langhe. This wonderful Barolo
opens with sweet smells of candle wax, nutmeg,
ginger, chocolate and bright red fruit.
The wine imparts a squeaky clean, polished feel
in the mouth. Imported by Hey Day Corporation.
—M.L.
92
Terre da Vino 2006 Paesi Tuoi
(Barolo); $NA. With the whimsical
name Paesi Tuoi (“your countries”), this youthful
Barolo will definitely appeal to refined, international
taste buds. The wine opens beautifully with
loads of rose, violet and blue flower. In the
mouth, it shows soft, silky tannins and bright acidity.
Drink after 2015. Imported by International
Wine Traders. —M.L.
92
Virna Borgogno 2006 Cannubi
Boschis (Barolo); $NA. From the celebrated
Cannubi Boschis cru, here’s a bright and
luminous Barolo that opens with a deep ruby
color and aromas of cherry, cola and cassis. Black
fruit, tar and spice appear on the palate and the
wine tastes tart, plumy and surprisingly succulent
compared to most Nebbiolo-based wines.
Imported by Ionia Atlantic. —M.L.
91
Anselma 2006 Famiglia Anselma
(Barolo); $NA. The rigorously en
famille Anselma estate offers a bold and innovative
interpretation of Barolo with loads of red
fruit, cola and exotic spice. Despite its big aro-
matic personality, the wine is subdued and elegant
in the mouth with silky smoothness and a
long, mineral-driven finish. —M.L.
91
Barale Fratelli 2004 Vigna
Castellero Riserva (Barolo); $NA.
Riserva Vigna Castellero is an approachable and
elegant food wine with focused aromas of wild
berry and cassis, backed by mineral, cola and
powdered licorice. There’s a polished and fine
nature to the mouthfeel and the wine would
stand up to juicy filet mignon topped with foie
gras and mushroom pâté. Imported by Lo Duca
Bros. —M.L.
91
Borgogno Giacomo e Figli 2004
Vigna Liste Riserva (Barolo); $102.
The Riserva Barolo from the Vigna Liste cru
proves to be an enticing and inviting wine with
pristine aromas of forest berry, cola and leather.
The wine’s persona is traditional and elegant and
there’s enough structure and freshness to ensure
long cellar aging: at least five to 10 more years.
Imported by Indigenous Selections. —M.L.
91
Boroli 2006 Villero (Barolo); $71.
Boroli is a dynamic winery worth keeping
a close eye on. Barolo Villero takes a traditional
approach that speaks highly of the beautifully
hilly area that shaped the wine. Delicate aromas
include wild berries, dried orange zest, apple
skin, licorice, tar and cigar box. In the mouth, the
wine is streamlined and tight. Imported by Dalla
Terra Winery Direct. —M.L.
91
Brovia 2006 Rocche (Barolo); $NA.
Here’s a distinctive expression of Nebbi-
olo with aromas of sweet cherry, vanilla, caramel,
ground clove, cassis and moist pipe tobacco. The
wine is tart and streamlined in the mouth with
impressive intensity and persistency. Imported by
Rosenthal Estate. —M.L.
91
Cascina Cucco 2006 Cerrati
(Barolo); $NA. Lively cherry, black-
berry, cola and cedar tones mark the bouquet of
this ruby-colored Barolo from the Cerrati cru.
Toasted oak and spice aromas are delicately
woven within and the wine finishes with crisp
freshness and firm tannins. Imported by Italia
Wine Imports. —M.L.
91
Cascina del Monastero 2004 Bricco
Riund Riserva (Barolo); $NA. The
2004 Bricco Riund Riserva makes a very nice first
impression thanks to the elegant and fine nature
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of its aromas. There’s a definite aromatic lift here,
spurred forward by buoyant aromas of root beer,
cherry, menthol, white stone and dried currants.
Give it a few more years in the bottle to soft those
firm tannins. Imported by Metropolis Wine Merchants,
Inc. —M.L.
91
Cascina Luisin 2006 Leon (Barolo);
$55. Barolo Leon makes a wonderful
first impression thanks to its aromas of ripe berry
fruit, Indian spice, cola, licorice and ginger.
There’s deep dimension and personality here and
the wine ends with firmly polished tannins.
Imported by Zig Zagando. —M.L.
91
Cavallotto 2004 Vignolo Riserva
(Barolo); $NA. The Vignolo Barolo
Riserva opens with ripe aromas of black cherry
and strawberry followed by leather, tobacco, tar
and black licorice. The wine still has more aging
to do: the mouthfeel is sharp, generous and polished.
—M.L.
91
Ceretto 2005 Zonchera (Barolo);
$51. Zonchera Barolo is presented as
the estate’s soft and most “modern” interpretation
of Barolo (a sometimes austere and shy
wine). This expression, on the other hand, is bold,
bright and packed tight with fresh fruit nuances
as well as tangy spice and tobacco. You don’t need
to cellar age this wine long because it’s perfectly
ready to drink now. Imported by Wilson Daniels
Ltd. —M.L.
91
Ciabot Berton 2004 Riserva
(Barolo); $90. This 2004 Riserva
Barolo opens with beautifully seasoned and
savory aromas of balsam, hummus, dried tobacco
and white stone. The wine is firm with dusty tannins
that leave a drying impression in the mouth.
Imported by Superior Wines LLC. —M.L.
91
Comm. G. B. Burlotto 2006 Acclivi
(Barolo); $50. Milky chocolate and
creamy almond paste open the nose of this ripe
and rich Barolo. Shadings of citrus, spice, plum,
licorice and root beer add to the complexity. This
is a pure, elegant and traditional expression of
Nebbiolo that needs another five to 10 years in
the cellar. Imported by Bacchanal Wines. —M.L.
91
Contratto 2003 Cerequio (Barolo);
$120. The celebrated Cerequio cru is
known for its elegant and refined wines. However,
in this hot vintage, you can taste the maturity
of the fruit thanks to the wine’s aromas of