BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING I GUIDE
wine shows good concentration and excellent persistency
of flavor with lingering nuances of spice
and berry with bright acidity and dry tannins.
Imported by Italia Wine Imports. —M.L.
90
Montaribaldi 2007 Sorì Montaribaldi
(Barbaresco); $NA. With
47 acres of vine, the Taliano family presents a
thickly concentrated expression of Nebbiolo with
pulpy fruit notes of cassis and blackberry. There’s
a bit of smoked ham, wet earth, vanilla and white
truffle in there as well and the wine closes with a
dense, velvety finish. —M.L.
90
Pertinace 2007 Marcarini (Barbaresco);
$49. Garnet ruby with
orange highlights—characteristic coloring of the
Nebbiolo grape—give this wine an elegant, classic
appearance. Aromas focus on dried berries,
spice and licorice and the wine is polished,
smooth and firm in the mouth. Pair it with
braised meat or lamb stew. Imported by MW
Imports. —M.L.
90
Piazzo Armando 2007 Fratin (Barbaresco);
$40. Graphite notes of pencil
shaving, polished river stone and slate make for a
beautifully mineral-driven nose. You’ll also get
very ripe notes of cherry and raspberry backed
by opulent shadings of new leather and black tar.
Imported by Angelini Wine. —M.L.
90
Piazzo Armando 2005 Nervo
Vigna Giaia Riserva (Barbaresco);
$45. This Riserva Barbaresco presents thick
extraction and an orange tinge to its garnet-ruby
color. Aromas here recall spice, earth, tar, licorice
and subtle fresh fruit nuances. The natural acidity
and bone-dry tannins suggest this wine should
stay lively for more years to come. Imported by
Angelini Wine. —M.L.
90
Produttori del Barbaresco 2005
Pora Riserva (Barbaresco); $70.
Here’s a bright and very polished Riserva Barbaresco
with clean and focused aromas of white
cherry, cola, wild berries and dried currants. This
expression from the Pora cru (known for its cellar-worthy
wines) shows good acidity and drying
tannins. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
90
Produttori del Barbaresco 2006
(Barbaresco); $35. This historic producer
sources some of the best local fruit for its
elegant Barbaresco. Aromas include cassis, dried
blueberry and cola, but there’s also a good dose
of licorice, spice and dark smoke. The wine
shows excellent texture with firm, drying tannins
and a bright, polished feel. Imported by Vias
Imports. —M.L.
90
Produttori del Barbaresco 2007
(Barbaresco); $37. Smoke, barbecue
and tar emerge from the nose of this ethereal and
elegant Barbaresco. You’ll also get delicate fruity
notes of pressed wild berries and white cherry.
The wine is tart and fresh with drying tannins and
a polished feel. Pair it with boiled beef and mint
sauce. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
90
Rizzi 2007 Pajoré (Barbaresco);
$58. This unique Barbaresco delivers
power and personality with aromas of cherry
liqueur, tar, asphalt, mesquite and slight touches
of barbecue smoke. More than fruity aromas, you
get floral ones here, especially red rose and violet.
In the mouth, the wine is silky, tight and fresh.
Imported by Opici Import Company. —M.L.
90
Terre da Vino 2007 La Casa in Collina
(Barbaresco); $NA. Terre da
Vino is a massive presence in the Langhe, representing
some 11,000 acres of vines and 2,500
growers. The winery produces excellent Barbera
and classic expressions of Barbaresco like this
wine. Aromas include red berries, wild flowers,
tar, licorice and spice. The wine is polished, clean,
persistent and focused. Imported by International
Wine Traders. —M.L.
89
Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa 2007
Tettineive (Barbaresco); $NA. Tet-
tineive Barbaresco shows nice integration of
wood and fruit. The wine offers elegance over
intensity and although all the aromas are clean
and correct, there is a slight point of dried dill or
chopped herb in the background. —M.L.
89
Ca’ del Baio 2007 Valgrande (Barbaresco);
$44. Here’s an up-and-com-
ing Langhe producer who has already made a big
splash with the Italian wine press. Valgrande is
the estate’s most traditional Barbaresco aged in
big oak casks. This vintage offers mature notes of
wild berries and plum followed by elegant shadings
of pipe tobacco and old spice. It shows
medium persistency with drying tannins.
Imported by Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L.
89
Cascina Luisin 2007 Rabajà (Barbaresco);
$26. This Barbaresco from
the celebrated Rabajà cru presents aromas that
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are typical of the Nebbiolo grape: pressed blue
flowers, tar, licorice, currants and wet earth. The
presentation is correct but lacks specific definition
although the wine is bright, polished and
more focused in the mouth. Imported by Zig
Zagando. —M.L.
89
La Spinona 2007 Bricco Faset (Barbaresco);
$NA. Smoke, toast,
mesquite and barbecue tones emerge from the
nose of this nicely concentrated Barbaresco from
La Spinona. There’s not much fruit here as the
wine’s aromas are mostly occupied by the secondary
perfumes acquired through wood aging.
Expect those to evolve and become more ethereal
with time. Imported by Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. —M.L.
89
Pasquale Pelissero 2007 Bricco
San Giuliano (Barbaresco); $30.
This is a delicate, feminine expression of Nebbiolo
with pretty layers of spice and forest fruit surrounded
by tar, graphite and white stone. In the
mouth, the wine is firm and fresh. There is a
slightly tart or raw note that will soften with
more time in the bottle. Imported by Grape
Expectations (CA). —M.L.
89
Pertinace 2007 Vigneto Nervo
(Barbaresco); $49. From the Vigneto
Nervo cru of Barbaresco, this well-concentrated
wine delivers notes of dark spice, leather,
tobacco, mesquite wood and oak. The natural
aromas associated with Nebbiolo are still buried,
so give this wine time to unwind with a few more
years of cellar aging. In the mouth, it shows soft,
meaty fruit with a smooth, velvety texture.
Imported by MW Imports. —M.L.
89
Produttori del Barbaresco 2005
Rio Sordo Riserva (Barbaresco);
$70. Black spice, root beer, tar and a touch of
smoke are backed by prune, plum and dried currants.
You’ll also recognize aromas of green olive
or caper and this Riserva Barbaresco is very elegant
and feminine overall. Don’t wait too long to
drink this wine, it’s at its height now. Imported by
Vias Imports. —M.L.
89
Prunotto 2007 (Barbaresco); $50.
With fruit sourced from Barbaresco,
Treiso and Neive, this elegant wine will surprise
you with its aromatic intensity. Bright aromas of
cinnamon, clove, black pepper and mature currant
pop out on the nose. Subtle shades of
licorice, prune and tobacco appear in the back-