BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

a firm, refreshing and spicy feel to the mouth.
Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L.
85
Tenuta Olim Bauda 2009 Centive
(Moscato d’Asti); $17. Freshness and
deep floral fragrances emerge from the foamy
and creamy nose of this well-made Moscato
d’Asti. It delivers a soft, plush feel in the mouth
and would pair with dried biscuits or sponge
cake. Imported by US Wine Imports. —M.L.
85
Vinchio-Vaglio Serra 2008 Valamasca
(Moscato d’Asti); $14. Valamasca
is a bright and foamy Moscato d’Asti with
cheerful aromas of white flower, honey, peach
and dried hay. The creamy effervescence feels
thick and smooth in the mouth and the wine
would pair with baked desserts or fruit. Imported
by Ionia Atlantic. —M.L.
84
Vino dei Fratelli 2008 Moscato
d’Asti; $15. Soapy, foaming and very
fragrant on the nose, this luminous Moscato
d’Asti delivers aromas of wild flower, dried herbs
and even a touch of dill. Luscious sweet nuances
wash clean over the palate. Imported by Quintessential
Wines. —M.L.
BRACHETTO
86
Giacomo Vico 2008 Birbet Brachetto
(Piedmont); $17. Here’s a
ruby-colored sparkling dessert wine that would
pair with chocolate-covered strawberries, panna
cotta or apricot tart. Fruity and cheerful, aromas
here include raspberry, white cherry and cranberry.
Creamy foaming is capped by bright crispness
to keep the mouth refreshed. Imported by
Adventures In Wine. —M.L.
84
Vinchio-Vaglio Serra 2008 Nivasco
Brachetto (Piedmont); $15. Here’s a
ruby red sparkler that should be served with
desserts, especially creamy ones such as panna
cotta with forest berries or creamy fruit pie. Aromas
include raspberry and blueberry and the
wine is simple and fresh on the close. Imported
by Ionia Atlantic. —M.L.
AUSTRIA
RED WINES
BLAUFRÄNKISCH
93
Kollwentz 2007 Point
Blaufränkisch (Burgenland); $NA.
Rich red fruits, wood spice and austere tannins
have produced a wine that is intense and powerful.
Layers of freshness and acidity moderate this
dark concentration. Age for at least five
years. Imported by Vos Selections. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
92
Judith Beck 2007 Altenberg
Blaufränkisch (Burgenland); $60.
Firm and structured, packed with ripe berry
fruits, a touch of pepper and firm, solid tannins.
The delicious fruit is sustained by acidity, and a
dry, elegant structure. Imported by Adventures
In Wine. —R.V.
89
Kollwentz 2008 Leithagebirge
Blaufränkisch (Burgenland); $36.
Wood-dominated wine, at this stage suppressing
the concentrated fruit, rich black berries and elegant
tannins. The wine needs at least four years.
Imported by Vos Selections. —R.V.
88
Judith Beck 2008 Blaufränkisch
(Burgenland); $20. Smooth, just
lightly peppery, with bitter cherry and sweet tannins.
This is delicious, pure juicy wine, finished
with tight acidity. Imported by Adventures In
Wine. —R.V.
PINOT NOIR
90
Kollwentz 2007 Dürr Pinot Noir
(Burgenland); $NA. A 900-foot vineyard
offers just the right cool conditions for great
Pinot Noir. This is impressive, toast and raspberry
fruit flavors vying with spice and acidity. It needs
3–4 years for the wood to integrate completely.
Imported by Vos Selections. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
89
Judith Beck 2007 Pinot Noir (Burgenland);
$50. Lovely red berry fruits,
with great acidity and fine perfumes. The elegance
of the wine is spoilt slightly by a rustic edge,
although the red berry aftertaste is fresh and clean.
Imported by Adventures In Wine. —R.V.
89
Zull 2006 Pinot Noir (Niederösterreich);
$36. Very true to the variety,
with red cherry flavors, and soft tannins. The
wine is ripe, juicy, very perfumed, all finished
with great acidity. Imported by Magellan Wine
Imports. —R.V.
ZWEIGELT
88
Judith Beck 2009 Zweigelt (Burgenland);
$20. A tasty, juicy wine with
ripe red cherry fruit and lively acidity. Soft, beautifully
ripe, ready to drink. Imported by Adventures
In Wine. —R.V.
88
Zull 2009 Zweigelt (Niederösterreich);
$17. Bitter cherry and sweet ripe
fruit in this rounded, barrel-aged wine. Gentle
tannins underline the fruitiness and the broad
brush texture. Imported by Magellan Wine
Imports. —R.V.
87
Kollwentz 2009 Föllikberg
Zweigelt (Burgenland); $30. Red
berry aromas follow through to an attractive,
simple, juicy wine, a core of tannins surrounded
by chunky, rustic fruits. Imported by Vos Selections.
—R.V.
OTHER RED WINES
93
Judith Beck 2007 Judith (Burgenland);
$60. Judith Beck’s namesake
wine is rich, opulent, piled high with ripe fruit
and sweet, structured tannins. The wine has floral
notes, chocolate and great complexity. For aging
over 4–5 years. Imported by Adventures In Wine.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
92
Judith Beck 2007 Pannobile (Burgenland);
$60. A classic Austrian
blend of Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch and St Laurent,
this is big, bold and ripe, structured, powerful
and dense. Pure juicy black berry fruits drive
right through the tight tannins. Age for 3–4 years.
Imported by Adventures In Wine. —R.V.
90
Judith Beck 2008 Heideboden
(Burgenland); $28. From young vines,
this is a big, berried wine, dense and concentrated.
Sweet cherries, juicy texture and light tannins
give a tasty, ripe wine. Imported by
Adventures In Wine. —R.V.
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