BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

89
Scorpion Mezcal Anejo 1 Year
(Scorpion Mezcal SA de CV, Oaxaca,
Mexico); 40% abv, $65. Aging the spirit
one full year in oak yields a muddy brown color as
well as a powerfully Bourbon-like, caramel aroma,
with hints of agave and pepper and cinnamon
spice. The flavors also are sweet, with notes of
vanilla, oak, tobacco and leather. A smooth, peppery
finish reminds this is mezcal, not Bourbon
after all. One revolting scorpion is revealed at the
bottom of the bottle.
89
Scorpion Mezcal Reposado (Scorpion
Mezcal SA de CV, Oaxaca,
Mexico); 40% abv, $45. This aged spirit has a
light straw color, and an intriguing mix of smoky
spice and caramel aromas. Allowed to sit, the
caramel scent intensifies. The flavor starts as
vaguely sweet and vanilla-like, with a soft feel on
the tongue, then turns peppery, and finishes with
anise and a strong alcohol bite. Despite two offputting
scorpions at the bottom of the bottle, a
sophisticated approach to mezcal.
88
Minero (Del Maguey, Ltd. Co.,
Oaxaca, Mexico); 49.2% abv, $70.
Clear color and vegetal aromas of green pepper,
green jalapeno, along with black pepper and a hint
of smoke and dried oregano. A sweet, fruity flavor
at first quickly unfolds to lots of smoke and
jalapeno pepper, and a spicy, bitingly alcoholic finish.
A bracing backbone for mixed drinks.
88
Illegal Joven Mezcal (Illegal Mezcal,
Oaxaca, Mexico); 40% abv,
$54. This smooth, well-balanced mezcal seems
unremarkable at first, but has a certain addictiveness.
The clear color and sweet, vegetal, slightly
smoky fragrance seems pleasant but ordinary. But
the alluring honeyed pepper notes and silky
mouthfeel bring you back for more.
88
Illegal Reposado Mezcal (Illegal
Mezcal, Oaxaca, Mexico); 40%
abv, $68. Restrained, mellow, balanced, elegant
—not something usually expected from the mezcal
category. The aged mezcal has a light gold
color and soft aromas—a whisper of pepper, a hint
of smokiness, later opening to a big caramel scent.
Peppery flavors and some agave sweetness finish
with a sharp bite, which might mellow over ice.
88
Maria Mezcal Anejo (Destileria
Dona Maria Chagoya, Oaxaca,
Mexico); 40% abv, $65. This mezcal retained
more agave character compared to other anejos.
With a light amber color and a smoky, sweet
honey scent, the flavor reflected agave sweetness
reminiscent of maple syrup along with spicy clove
notes and a faint green pepper, vegetal twang.
Smooth, black peppery finish.
87
Illegal Anejo Mezcal (Illegal Mezcal,
Oaxaca, Mexico); 40% abv,
$103. A pervasively peppery mezcal. Medium
amber color and smooth feel. Chile pepper aroma
with hint of vanilla and licorice, sweet and spicy
flavor finishes peppery, with some caramel
aftertaste.
86
Tobala (Del Maguey, Ltd. Co., Oaxaca,
Mexico); 47.2% abv, $125. This
single-village mezcal made from wild mountain
maguey (agave) has a clean, peppery flavor and
high, sweet fragrance with a peppery zing.
85
Mezcalero Release #2 (Distileria
los Danzantes, Oaxaca, Mexico);
48.1% abv, $84. A brisk, even slightly raw,
unaged mezcal that clears the sinuses. Clear color
and astringent, super-smoky scent precede a faint
agave-sweet flavor, then a big dose of pepper and
spicy, lingering finish.
85
Scorpion Mezcal Anejo 5 Year
(Scorpion Mezcal SA de CV, Oax-
aca, Mexico); 40% abv, $180. This limitededition
mezcal was aged for five years in oak.
Perhaps the angel took more than his share,
because this gave the perception of the most alcohol
bite, though it was labeled at a mere 80 proof.
The muddy brown liquid has a strong alcohol
nose, as well as smoky and spicy notes balanced by
a toffee-like fragrance. Very spicy and alcoholic
flavor, finishing with caramel and anise, and again,
harsh alcohol, so much that it burns. Elegantly
packaged in a curved glass bottle with one inelegant
scorpion at the bottom.
85
Vida (Del Maguey, Ltd. Co., Oaxaca,
Mexico); 42% abv, $36. This
clear and light-bodied mezcal has a faintly smoky
aroma and a mildly peppery flavor. A potent, alcoholic
finish fades into black pepper.
84
Fidencio Mezcal Joven “sin humo”
(Fabrica de Mezcal del Amigos,
Oaxaca, Mexico); 40% abv, $45. This clear,
delicate, almost gin-like mezcal is the debut offering
from Fidencio, and the “con humo” (with
smoke) and aged versions could prove very interesting
with this unusual base. This light-bodied
product has pepper and overripe pineapple aromas,
a soft feel and a faintly floral/menthol flavor
with a light, peppery finish. It’s not very flavorful,
but intriguing nevertheless.
84
Felino Reposado (Escorpion La
Estanzuela, Zacatecas, Mexico);
40% abv, $33. A slightly aged, light amber mezcal
with a good give-and-take of raw agave flavors
and the softening influence of the barrel. Assertive
aromas of caramel and spicy pepper, in equal
measure. Agave, honey, and pepper flavors, with a
long anise and oaky finish disrupted by a too-hot
alcohol bite.
84
Scorpion Mezcal Silver (Scorpion
Mezcal SA de CV, Oaxaca, Mexico);
40% abv, $38. This clear liquid has an overwhelmingly
fruity pineapple-and-pepper scent,
like a flavored vodka. Oddly overripe sweetness,
then a spicy/peppery finish on the tongue and a
strong alcohol burn. I could see this adding zing to
cocktails made with tropical or exotic fruits.
83
Oro de Oaxaca Mezcal (Licorera
Oaxaquena SA de CV, Oaxaca,
Mexico); 40% abv, $29 Oro means “gold,”
though the liquid appears more of a pale straw
than golden. Not much aroma, slight green pepper.
Smoky, complex flavor, vegetal notes. Pleasantly
warm, slightly oily feel. Not much of a finish
—some pepper & tannic pucker. This was the
only mezcal to arrive with a worm in the bottom of
the bottle, which resembles a tiny turd.
83
Maria Mezcal Reposado (Destileria
Dona Maria Chagoya, Oaxaca,
Mexico); 40% abv, $45 Light golden color,
thin body. This aged mezcal has an intensely
sweet, caramel aroma with dissonant pepper and
pine notes. The flavors are piny and smoky, with a
peppery, dry finish.
82
Pechuga (Del Maguey, Ltd. Co.,
Oaxaca, Mexico); 49.4% abv, $200.
This expensive, triple-distilled single-village mezcal
is a bartender favorite, but I just don’t understand
why. The scent on this clear liquid was
reminiscent of pizza with smoked mozzarella:
tomato, black pepper and oregano, and light
smoke. But the flavors reflected none of this.
Instead, it had distinctive and intense licorice and
petrol-like flavors, like ouzo without any sweetness
and a faintly peppery, astringent finish. Oily,
viscous feel.
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