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BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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<strong>BUYING</strong> I <strong>GUIDE</strong><br />

Vietti. You’ll fall in love with the wine’s rich intensity<br />

and the ensuing complexity that becomes<br />

apparent as the wine spends more time in the<br />

glass. Thanks to a continuing evolution, you’ll recognize<br />

aromas of wild berry, smoke, crushed<br />

stone, licorice, cola and mesquite. The tannins<br />

are silky and smooth. Hold ten years or more.<br />

Imported by Dalla Terra <strong>Wine</strong>ry Direct. Cellar<br />

Selection. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Brezza 2006 Cannubi (Barolo);<br />

$NA. Here’s yet another extraordinary<br />

wine from the famed Cannubi cru of Barolo. In<br />

this expression from the Brezza family, you’ll be<br />

rewarded with bright aromas of forest berry,<br />

licorice, earth, leather and cola. The wine is<br />

intense, generous and very elegant. Pair it with<br />

chicken in morel mushroom sauce. Imported by<br />

Admiralty Beverage. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Bric Cenciurio 2006 Coste di Rose<br />

(Barolo); $NA. Here’s another Barolo<br />

from the Coste di Rose cru that will blow your<br />

mind. This is a big, bold expression of Nebbiolo<br />

with thick and longlasting aromas backed by<br />

impressive intensity in the mouth. Espresso bean,<br />

cherry, spice, leather and licorice all make an<br />

appearance and the finish can be counted in<br />

many long, long delicious minutes. Imported by<br />

Italia <strong>Wine</strong> Imports. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Cascina Ballarin 2004 Bricco Rocca<br />

Riserva Tistot (Barolo); $NA.<br />

Impressive on so many levels, this vineyard designate<br />

Riserva Barolo shows excellent aromatic<br />

intensity and purity. Black cherry, plum, smoke,<br />

spice, asphalt, root beer and black tar are evident<br />

elements of the bouquet. The mouthfeel is<br />

full, firm and generous with a lingering vanilla<br />

fade. Imported by Ideal <strong>Wine</strong> and Spirits Co.<br />

Inc. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Castello di Verduno 2004 Monvigliero<br />

Riserva (Barolo); $90.<br />

Although this Riserva already has six years of age,<br />

it opens with surprisingly bright and youthful<br />

tones of cherry, blackberry and cassis. Those fruit<br />

aromas are folded within evident oak-driven aromas<br />

of spice and vanilla. The mouthfeel is firm,<br />

polished and this Barolo should age more years<br />

in the bottle. Imported by Oliver McCrum<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Ceretto 2005 Bricco Rocche<br />

Brunate (Barolo); $88. Thanks to its<br />

dense clay soils, the Brunate cru delivers wines<br />

with high color saturation and aromatic caliber.<br />

This Barolo offers layers of black fruit, plum,<br />

spice, tobacco, cola and dark chocolate. The wine<br />

is firm and finely textured with power, dimension<br />

and personality on the long finish. Imported by<br />

Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Claudio Alario 2006 Riva (Barolo);<br />

$NA. Barolo Riva is a fantastic wine with<br />

enormous personality and charm. At the outset,<br />

the wine appears modern and bold with determined<br />

aromas of black fruit and spice. But wait a<br />

second and the wine will surprise you with its sassy<br />

complexity and finesse. Give it 10 more years of<br />

cellar aging. A Marc de Grazia selection; various<br />

American importers. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Claudio Alario 2006 Sorano<br />

(Barolo); $NA. Barolo Sorano (from<br />

the Serralunga d’Alba area) is an impressive wine<br />

with big color and extraction followed by aromas<br />

of cherry liqueur, spice, vanilla, clove and ginger.<br />

The wine is chewy and succulent in the mouth<br />

with firm tannins that will soften with time. A<br />

Marc de Grazia selection; various American<br />

importers. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Cordero di Montezemolo 2006<br />

Enrico VI (Barolo); $NA. Enrico VI is<br />

an elegant and unique expression of Nebbiolo<br />

with impressive finesse and sophistication. Save<br />

this bottle for an important occasion and cellar<br />

age the wine five to 10 more years at a minimum.<br />

Aromas include coffee, tar, dried tobacco, leather<br />

and delicate forest fruit. There are hints of vanilla<br />

and toast on the close that will soften with time.<br />

Imported by Omniwines Distribution. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Elvio Cogno 2006 Cascina Nuova<br />

(Barolo); $45. Wow, what a wonderful<br />

wine, delivering rich notes of black fruit, vanilla,<br />

cherry and spice. But the aromas are in no way<br />

obvious. In fact, this is an ethereal and elegant<br />

wine that pays attention to the little details,<br />

like the light shadings of polished stone and violets<br />

that liven up the long finish. Drink after<br />

2018. Imported by Vias Imports. Cellar Selection.<br />

—M.L.<br />

94<br />

Enzo Boglietti 2006 Fossati<br />

(Barolo); $NA. The Barolo Fossati<br />

from La Morra opens with huge intensity and<br />

determined aromas of black cherry, tobacco,<br />

licorice, mesquite wood and crushed mineral.<br />

What really sets this wine apart is the immediacy<br />

and confident delivery of its aromas. That same<br />

1 8 | W I N E E N T H U S I A S T | D E C E M B E R 1 , 2 0 1 0<br />

self-awareness transfers to the mouth, where the<br />

wine is long, satisfying and rich. Imported by<br />

Cutting Edge Selections. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Gianfranco Alessandria 2006 San<br />

Giovanni (Barolo); $NA. Here’s a<br />

fantastic addition to your cellar collection of<br />

Barolos. Gianfranco Alessandria’s San Giovanni<br />

Barolo is at the top of its class. The wine is elegant<br />

and ethereal with dark, spicy concentration<br />

and loads of pulpy fruit, licorice, ginger, cola and<br />

leather. Open this bottle in ten years or so.<br />

Imported by T. Edward <strong>Wine</strong>s Ltd. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Gianni Gagliardo 2006 Cannubi<br />

(Barolo); $125. A Barolo superstar on<br />

the rise—keep a close watch on the wines of<br />

Gianni Gagliardo and family. This expression<br />

from the prized Cannubi cru offers impressive<br />

intensity and personality with enticing aromas of<br />

black fruit, cola, root beer, cured beef, cedar and<br />

white truffle. The wine is ethereal and elegant<br />

but the tannic touch is firm enough to promise a<br />

long cellar future ahead. Imported by Enotec<br />

Imports, Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Gianni Voerzio 2006 La Serra<br />

(Barolo); $100. Barolo La Serra from<br />

Gianni Voerzio would make a perfect companion<br />

to pulled pork smoked over hardwood charcoal.<br />

There’s a sassy spice element here backed by<br />

plush layers of blueberry, blackberry and plum.<br />

The tannins are still on the young, astringent side;<br />

give this wine some time to unwind in the cellar.<br />

Imported by BelVino LLC. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Giuseppe Rinaldi 2006 Cannubi<br />

San Lorenzo Ravera (Barolo); $95.<br />

With fruit sourced from some of Barolo’s best<br />

vineyard crus, this beautiful wine offers fullness,<br />

character and longevity. Textbook Nebbiolo aromas<br />

include wild berry, blue flower, white pepper,<br />

cola and tar. The mouthfeel is spicy, fresh and<br />

well structured. Pair this wine with steak au<br />

poivre (in 5–10 years or so). Imported by Vinifera<br />

Imports. —M.L.<br />

94<br />

Luigi Pira 2006 Vigna Marenca<br />

(Barolo); $65. The Luigi Pira estate<br />

delivers a knockout Barolo (from the Marenca<br />

vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba) with impressive<br />

integrity of fruit, vibrant cherry and blackberry<br />

backed by warming aromas of chocolate and<br />

spice. The wine is velvety-rich and opulent in the<br />

mouth. Drink after 2018. Imported by Michael<br />

Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. Cellar Selection. —M.L.

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