BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING I GUIDE
Could use more finesse, but it sure is rich.
A blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot. —S.H.
84
David Girard 2008 Estate Vineyard
Mourvèdre (El Dorado); $34. Light
in color and in body, like a Pinot Noir, this
Mourvèdre has forward, rich flavors of cherries
and orange zest, accented with sweet, toasty oak.
It’s simple and rather sweet, like melted pie filling.
—S.H.
84
Hovey 2008 Rolleri Cuvée Tempranillo
(Calaveras County); $16.
Soft, slightly sweet and fruity, with raspberry jam,
chocolate and pepper spice flavors. A country
wine with a simple structure. —S.H.
84
Lava Cap 2007 Reserve Grenache
(El Dorado); $18. The hot climate in
which the grapes were grown shows in this wine’s
extreme softness and jammy ripeness. It’s almost
sweet, like a cherry and raspberry pastry. —S.H.
84
Long Gamma 2007 Red (Sonoma
County); $12. This blend of Zinfandel,
Syrah and Petite Sirah is soft and fruity. It has
simple, rather sweet raspberry tart, vanilla and
black pepper flavors. Okay for an everyday red
wine. —S.H.
84
Still Waters 2007 Malbec (Paso
Robles); $28. Soft, fruity and very
oaky, with vanilla and caramel aromas and flavors
dominating. The raspberry and milk chocolate
flavors are almost sweet. Seems pricey for
what you get. —S.H.
83
Four Brix 2008 California; $35. A
fairly coarse wine, thin in texture and
tart, with unbalanced green peppercorn, mint,
berry and cola flavors. Syrah, Mourvèdre,
Grenache and Counoise. —S.H.
83
R Collection 2007 Lot No. 3 Field
Blend (California); $15. This blend
of many varieties is full-bodied, dry and tannic.
It’s the sort of red wine to drink with barbecue
and not worry about analyzing. —S.H.
ROSÉ WINES
91
Jorian Hill 2009 Hope Springs
Eternal Rosé (Santa Ynez Valley);
$18. Kudos to Jorian Hill for crafting a rosé that’s
truly dry. It’s a sophisticated, elegant blush wine
with subtle raspberry, herb, rose petal, spice and
mineral flavors, finished with a wonderfully clean
scour of acidity. This Provençal blend of Syrah,
Grenache and Mourvèdre is one of the best rosés
of the yearn and is reasonably priced. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
85
Bonterra 2009 Rosé (Mendocino
County); $14. Here’s an easy-drinking,
inexpensive rosé that’s perfect for summer occasions.
Made from an unusual blend of Sangiovese,
Zinfandel, Carignane and Grenache, it’s
dryish, crisp and clean, with berry and spice flavors.
—S.H.
83
Curtis 2009 Heritage Rosé (Santa
Barbara County); $14. This is a
Provençal-style blush made of Mourvèdre,
Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. It’s a little sugary
sweet, with raspberry, orange and vanilla
flavors. —S.H.
CALIFORNIA
WHITE WINES
CHARDONNAY
93
Petroni 2008 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley); $30. A very nice Chardonnay
that offers enough richness to justify the price,
yet retains an elegant restraint that won’t overpower
food. Dry, creamy and brisk, it shows
pineapple tart, ripe white peach, buttered toast
and vanilla flavors, with a mouthwatering minerality.
Production was 800 cases. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
92
Etude 2008 Chardonnay
(Carneros); $38. Although there’s a lot
of oak on this wine, it’s not heavy or fat in the
excessive California style, because the underlying
wine is so crisp and elegant. Call it Chablisian.
It shows mineral, Meyer lemon and lime flavors,
with brilliant acidity. Really quite a fine Carneros
Chardonnay. —S.H.
92
Foxen 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Steel Cut Chardonnay (Santa
Maria Valley); $32. Drier and more minerally
than Foxen’s other Chardonnays, because it
is the least oaked. It’s vibrant in grilled pineapple,
mango, apricot and vanilla spice flavors,
brightened by beautiful acidity. Alcohol is quite
5 6 | W I N E E N T H U S I A S T | D E C E M B E R 1 , 2 0 1 0
high, but the wine never tastes hot or unbalanced.
—S.H.
92
Riverbench 2008 Chapel View
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley);
$30. This valley in Santa Barbara County continues
to prove its relevance to California Chardonnay,
as proven once again by this dry, crisply
elegant and decadently delicious wine. It bursts
in the mouth with juicy pineapple, white peach
and honeysuckle flavors, generously oaked, but is
balanced in acidity and minerals. —S.H.
92
Sonoma-Cutrer 2008 Russian River
Ranches Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast); $23. This is a lovely Chardonnay, a
super restaurant wine list bottle. Dry and creamy,
it offers pleasantly rich pineapple, lime pie, green
apple, exotic spice and buttered toast flavors,
accented with crisp, clean acidity. —S.H.
92
Talley 2008 Chardonnay (Arroyo
Grande Valley); $26. Shows the
weight, complexity and sheer deliciousness that
this bottling almost always displays. Chardonnay
fans will love the oaky, creamy flavors of pineapple
tart, pear and lemon jam and buttered toast.
The winemaker recommends pairing with black
cod, and if you have a Chinese restaurant that
makes a good version of this honey and
soy inspired dish, it will be heaven. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
91
Talley 2008 Chardonnay (Edna
Valley); $22. A really nice, elegant
Chardonnay at a good price. The wine is dry and
lightly oaked, showing rich pineapple, peach,
vanilla and buttered toast flavors enhanced with
crisp acidity. Only 731 cases were produced of
this lovely, food-friendly wine. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
90
Foxen 2009 Tinaquaic Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley);
$32. Some will criticize this Chardonnay for
being too oaky and sweet, but it sure is delicious.
It just brims with pineapple, yellow apricot,
crème brûlée, honey and buttered toast flavors
that are balanced with crisp acidity. If you like
that California style, you’ll love this opulent
wine. —S.H.
90
Saintsbury 2008 Chardonnay
(Carneros); $18. A very nice Chardonnay
for this price. It’s barrel fermented and aged
on the lees in the classic style, which gives smoky,