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Illustration: Kat Heyes marie-odile briet Reality bites for French gastronomy — THE TALKER — P A R I S On August 19, after months of suspense, French television channel TF1 fi nally brought its most sizzling programme of the new season out of the oven: MasterChef. This is super-size reality TV, with an epic casting process (18,000 amateur chefs were auditioned in 25 French cities) and swanky production values. Just as so-called intellectuals love vegging out in front of French Pop Idol, we’re willing to bet our best Japanese ceramic knife that even the snobbiest of foodies will be gobbling up MasterChef served TF1-style. Our British friends, however, can’t believe we’re getting so excited over such an old-hat concept. Indeed, their version of MasterChef is a stalwart of the BBC. Here in France we’re only just getting a taste of prime-time cook-offs: the M6 channel launched its version of Come Dine with Me in 2008 – after it had already taken off in 16 countries. Meanwhile Top Chef, an American buy-in, has been a huge hit since it fi rst aired in early <strong>2010</strong>. M6 is also home to France’s only real TV chef, Cyril Lignac, Jamie Oliver’s Aveyronnais avatar, who has followed in his original’s footsteps in uninspired style (Cyril at the school canteen, Cyril with young no-hopers). Adored by the public yet snubbed by his peers and critics, the young Gallic chef is still struggling for legitimacy. It seems that in France a “real” chef is expected to fl ee the cameras. Apparently our culinary icons (Gagnaire, Ducasse and Passard) declined TF1’s offer. Many “starred” chefs were afraid of being scolded by the big Michelin man. Under threat for years from the onslaught of Spanish, Danish and Anglo-Saxon chefs, the microcosm that is French gastronomy hesitates to grab its only lifeline, which would be to meet real people in their living rooms. Even if, in the short term, it won’t help them sell more tasting menus. In 2008 Nicolas Sarkozy suggested that putting French gastronomy on the Unesco World Heritage list might stem its decline. Here’s hoping that his wife will sweet-talk him into watching MasterChef. La téléréalité hexagonale s’attaque à un gros gibier // Chaud devant ! Après des mois de suspense, TF1 a fi nalement sorti du four, le 19 août, son programmephare de la rentrée : MasterChef. De la télé-réalité XXL, avec un casting de péplum (18 000 cuisiniers amateurs auditionnés dans 25 villes de France) et des moyens délirants. On parie ? De même que les intellos aiment s’encanailler devant la Nouvelle Star, MasterChef à la sauce TF1, même les plus snobs des « foodies » vont adorer. On en mettrait notre main à couper au couteau en céramique japonais. Seuls nos amis britanniques auront du mal à croire qu’on s’excite sur une telle vieillerie. Chez eux, MasterChef, le légendaire concours culinaire de la BBC, moult fois lifté, bat des records de longévité à l’antenne. En France, on goûte tout juste aux battles de cuisine en prime time. Le Dîner presque parfait de M6, lancé en 2008, existait déjà dans 16 pays. Top Chef, diffusé début <strong>2010</strong>, cartonnait depuis un bail outre-Atlantique. C’est également à M6 qu’on doit notre unique chef TV national, Cyril Lignac, avatar aveyronnais de Jamie Oliver, téléguidé pour marcher sur ses traces (Cyril à la cantine, Cyril avec des jeunes en galère…). Adoré du public, mais snobé par ses pairs et la critique, le jeune cuisinier se cherche toujours une légitimité. Comme si, en France, un « vrai » chef devait fuir les caméras. Il paraît que nos idoles culinaires (Gagnaire, Ducasse, Passard…) ont décliné la proposition de TF1. Que pas mal d’étoilés sollicités ont eu peur de se faire gronder par le gros Bibendum. Mis au défi depuis des années par les cuisiniers espagnols, danois ou anglo-saxons, le microcosme de la « haute gastronomie » hexagonale hésite à saisir la seule planche de salut : aller à la rencontre des « vrais gens » dans leur salon. Même si, à court terme, ça ne fait pas vendre plus de menus-dégustation ! En 2008, Nicolas Sarkozy, vaguement conscient du déclin de la cuisine française, proposait de la classer… au Patrimoine de l’Unesco ! Pourvu que Carlita le convainque un de ces soirs de regarder MasterChef. Marie-Odile Briet est journaliste indépendante et collabore au supplément Styles de l’Express METROPOLITAN 9
Page 1: September - 2010 - Septembre THE FA
Page 4 and 5: - regulars - 07 the talker London,
Page 6 and 7: MAASMECHELEN VILLAGE, NEAR BRUSSELS
Page 10 and 11: Jean Neuhaus, the inventor of the B
Page 12 and 13: Professional day: 15 October 2010 1
Page 14 and 15: Illustratie: Kat Heyes frédéric m
Page 16 and 17: GET A WORKOUT WHILE YOU WALK TM IT
Page 18 and 19: PARIS Secret Paris If the idea of d
Page 20 and 21: Culture LONDON Treasures from Budap
Page 22 and 23: PARIS Festival d’Île de France T
Page 24 and 25: © Bal du Moulin Rouge 2010 - Mouli
Page 26 and 27: Illustration: Kat Heyes Radius:Brus
Page 28 and 29: At The O2 , North Greenwich * Book
Page 30 and 31: 30 METROPOLITAN discreet charm by F
Page 32 and 33: INVITATION JERMYN STREET PRESENTS T
Page 34 and 35: Made of crystal clear ice and maint
Page 37 and 38: LONDON Breakfast in a bottle Soho
Page 39 and 40: — LE PETIT- DÉJEUNER — Petit-d
Page 41 and 42: NOBU BERKELEY Starting at £32, the
Page 43 and 44: CHEZ MICHEL Thierry Breton’s rest
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Page 47: STEFAN, 44: CONSULTANT FOR THE CYCL
Page 50: MARC JACOBS BLUMARINE WESTWOOD PLAI
Page 53 and 54: NEW-shop online www.lacoste.com
Page 55 and 56: — INSIDER STYLE — metro sensual
Page 57 and 58: Coming from Canada, and having work
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Photograph: Will Sanders METROPOLIT
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Photos : G. Dussart / Rapho FRENCH
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À l’abri des regards indiscrets
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la conversation kristina blahnik Kr
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Photograph: Shahram Sanai / camerap
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Mentor, muse, stylist, icon: Isabel
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Above: with husband Detmar, by Chri
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Avec Isabella, on ne s’ennuyait j
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Photograph: camerapress Geliefde On
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108 METROPOLITAN Head heart After t
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Jones’s smile curls up a little t
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METROPOLITAN 113 METROPOLITAN 97
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