McCormick+Schmitz Handbook for value chain research on - PACA

6. Homeworkers in <strong>chain</strong>s: types of homeworkers
Garment <strong>value</strong> <strong>chain</strong>s include a wide variety of sizes and types of firms, linked by both
<strong>for</strong>mal and in<strong>for</strong>mal relationships. Homeworkers are part of many of these <strong>chain</strong>s. They
do both ‘making through’ of complete garments and ‘section work’, i.e., one particular
process such as fastening on pockets, collars, or cuffs. Some also do specialised work,
such as finishing, embroidery, quality inspection, or packing.
6.1 Types of homeworkers: production processes
The International Labour Office has grouped these activities - and the homeworkers - into
three main categories (ILO 2000). First are those involved in the craft-based industries
that are generally found in rural areas. Examples of craft work include the weaving of
textiles on hand-operated looms in India, production of batik cloth in Indonesia, or
making of traditional clothing in Latin America. The workers have traditionally been
regarded as self-employed because they have considerable autonomy over both production
and marketing. They procure their own materials, design and make their products, and
find their own marketing channels. Often they involve other family members in the work.
Manufacturing homework differs from craft-based homework in that workers receive raw
material from a prime contractor or intermediary and have to follow very strict
instructions in carrying out the work. Manufacturing homework retains a craft-based
character and uses traditional skills, but the workers are essentially subcontracted to
produce specific items that are designed and marketed by others. The production of
carpets is an example of the type of production which lends itself to this <strong>for</strong>m of home
subcontracting. In the garment industry, manufacturing homework work consists of
‘making through’ of complete garments. In Japan, the most expensive kimonos are
produced at home by highly skilled women workers. The high quality blouses made by
Agnes are another example (see Box 1.2 above). Because of its craft character and the
skills required, manufacturing homework is less susceptible to abuses than industrial
homework.
Industrial homework is the <strong>for</strong>m of homework that is most fully involved in the
globalization of the clothing industry. Industrial homeworkers usually carry out operations
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