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McCormick+Schmitz Handbook for value chain research on - PACA

McCormick+Schmitz Handbook for value chain research on - PACA

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gendered <str<strong>on</strong>g>chain</str<strong>on</strong>g> map looks like. Its main limitati<strong>on</strong> is that some of the most significant<br />

variati<strong>on</strong>s can be found within the broad categories used in this map. For example, in the<br />

sphere of producti<strong>on</strong> you may want to distinguish between the 98% female work<str<strong>on</strong>g>for</str<strong>on</strong>g>ce in<br />

sewing operati<strong>on</strong>s and the 90% male work<str<strong>on</strong>g>for</str<strong>on</strong>g>ce in the cutting room. These or other more<br />

detailed distincti<strong>on</strong>s are best brought out in sub-maps c<strong>on</strong>cerned with particular parts of a<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>chain</str<strong>on</strong>g>.<br />

Earnings<br />

In order to work out the average earnings in different <str<strong>on</strong>g>chain</str<strong>on</strong>g>s and different stages in the<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>chain</str<strong>on</strong>g>s, you will need to draw <strong>on</strong> a range of sources. The wage in garment retailing in the<br />

US or European countries can be calculated from the official statistics of the<br />

Government’s Labour Office, <str<strong>on</strong>g>for</str<strong>on</strong>g> example, the US Bureau of Labour Statistics. Average<br />

earnings in garment producti<strong>on</strong> may also be available from government sources but check<br />

them against other sources. Labour uni<strong>on</strong>s are the obvious source. Some labour uni<strong>on</strong>s<br />

have their own <str<strong>on</strong>g>research</str<strong>on</strong>g> wing; <str<strong>on</strong>g>for</str<strong>on</strong>g> example, the South African Clothing Federati<strong>on</strong><br />

collects and publishes wage data. The problem with these sources is that they probably do<br />

not provide data <str<strong>on</strong>g>for</str<strong>on</strong>g> the specific locati<strong>on</strong> and <str<strong>on</strong>g>chain</str<strong>on</strong>g> in which you are interested. For such<br />

disaggregated data you will probably need to enlist the help of the local labour uni<strong>on</strong> and<br />

corroborate their data with those from a few enterprises in the <str<strong>on</strong>g>chain</str<strong>on</strong>g>s c<strong>on</strong>cerned.<br />

In the case of homeworkers, you need their help to work out the average earnings. Do so<br />

with different homeworkers, like Agnes and Maria. You will need the piece rate of a few<br />

typical products in order to work out their earnings. A critical assumpti<strong>on</strong> c<strong>on</strong>cerns the<br />

number of hours worked. Since you want comparable data, the earnings presented in the<br />

map should be based <strong>on</strong> the number of hours typical of full-time factory workers. Or you<br />

can, as shown in Figure 9.1, show the hourly earnings. This would then need to be<br />

complemented with data <strong>on</strong> the fluctuati<strong>on</strong>s in working hours.<br />

53

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