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McCormick+Schmitz Handbook for value chain research on - PACA

McCormick+Schmitz Handbook for value chain research on - PACA

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piece rates increase their costs and harm their competitiveness. Indeed higher pay means<br />

higher costs unless the workers’ per<str<strong>on</strong>g>for</str<strong>on</strong>g>mance improves as a result of the better pay. If<br />

your <str<strong>on</strong>g>research</str<strong>on</strong>g> is to help negotiati<strong>on</strong>s, you need to know by how much costs would<br />

increase if workers wages or piece rates were to be raised by, say, 10%. In order to<br />

answer this questi<strong>on</strong> you need to know the share of labour costs in total costs.<br />

A cost breakdown is a sensitive piece of in<str<strong>on</strong>g>for</str<strong>on</strong>g>mati<strong>on</strong> <str<strong>on</strong>g>for</str<strong>on</strong>g> the manufacturer. Do not expect<br />

to obtain it through a sample survey. In-depth interviews with a small number of<br />

producers are more promising, but d<strong>on</strong>’t start the interview with questi<strong>on</strong>s <strong>on</strong> costs and<br />

profits! Once you have obtained the resp<strong>on</strong>dent’s trust it should be possible to fill in<br />

Table 12.1. In the interview, there are two strategies you can follow: you ask the questi<strong>on</strong><br />

<strong>on</strong> percentages of costs and margins (last column in Table) and then apply these<br />

percentages to <strong>on</strong>e or two typical products made by the enterprise and then check that the<br />

margins given ring true. Or you do it the other way round, you start with a typical<br />

garment (ideally <strong>on</strong>e that you have seen being made during the visit) and then work out<br />

the percentages. Then do then the same with another product – or, at least, ask whether<br />

the same percentages can be applied to many other products made by this firm.<br />

Table 12.1 : Costs and profit margins (per unit of output)<br />

Materials<br />

Labour<br />

Overheads (machines,<br />

electricity, rent, etc.)<br />

Costs of producti<strong>on</strong><br />

Profit margin<br />

Selling price<br />

Value in local currency<br />

Percentages<br />

Having obtained this cost breakdown, try to obtain an additi<strong>on</strong>al piece of in<str<strong>on</strong>g>for</str<strong>on</strong>g>mati<strong>on</strong>,<br />

namely the share of payments to homeworkers in total labour costs and in total costs.<br />

Keep in mind that this can vary enormously. For example, a blouse with extensive<br />

embroidery often absorbs a lot of homework, whereas the same blouse without<br />

embroidery might be made entirely within the factory. In view of such product variati<strong>on</strong>s,<br />

73

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