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the majority of our customers, combined with our high levels of customer service, has contributed to our customer<br />
retention rates in excess of 90% in recent years.<br />
By selling our products primarily on a wholesale basis and producing them mostly to order, we avoid certain of the<br />
commercial risks faced by those of our competitors whose distribution strategy is based on selling to retail<br />
customers through their own outlets. The most important of these risks is, we believe, the need to estimate<br />
customer demand since making incorrect estimates could result in significant inventories of unsold finished goods<br />
at the end of a season.<br />
We also sell our apparel and accessories on a wholesale basis through a network of 102 franchised stores (including<br />
corner shops inside department stores) located in Europe, Asia, North America and the Middle East and 29 directly<br />
operated retail boutiques located in major cities and exclusive vacation resorts around the world, with most of these<br />
points of sale consisting of single-brand Malo or Ferré boutiques that we acquired together with our purchase of<br />
these brands.<br />
In connection with our retail rationalization strategy, during 2004 we closed our directly operated Malo stores in<br />
London, New York and Chicago, and intend to continue rationalizing our retail operations and are presently<br />
evaluating opportunities to convert additional directly operated stores to franchised points of sale on a case-by-case<br />
basis. Going forward, we expect to pursue future retail growth exclusively through franchising and similar<br />
arrangements. In this way, we believe we can reduce the operating expenses and capital expenditures associated<br />
with our directly operated retail stores, improve our profitability and increase our free cash flow.<br />
To this end, in February 2005 we entered into an agreement with Arts, a leading Eastern Europe retailer of apparel<br />
and accessories, pursuant to which Arts has committed to opening at least 16 new franchised multi-brand<br />
accessories stores by the Spring-Summer 2006 season throughout Eastern Europe and Russia, with the possibility<br />
of opening up to an additional 125 stores in this region by 2009 if certain conditions and financial targets are met.<br />
In order to protect the distinctiveness and exclusive images of our product lines, we require that the stores<br />
displaying our products adhere to stringent standards for decor, image and merchandising mix. Before and after<br />
each season, we evaluate each of our customers on the basis of sales performance and the quality of its display and<br />
promotion. Our credit department monitors the financial condition of our customers and has the capacity to<br />
promptly cancel orders and suspend delivery of finished goods if it deems such action to be advisable. Similarly,<br />
the design, product presentation and other key factors necessary to ensure that our branded products are properly<br />
sold and marketed by our franchised stores are controlled by us and provided for in franchise agreements we enter<br />
into with our franchisees. These agreements typically have a term of five years, provide for minimum purchase<br />
requirements and give us control over shop design, advertising and other key factors in order to protect the image<br />
and prestige of our owned and licensed brands.<br />
We begin marketing our new collections to our customers in June and July of each year (for the following year’s<br />
Spring-Summer collection) and in January and February (for the following year’s Fall-Winter collection). The<br />
marketing phase of the product development cycle typically lasts approximately two months and principally<br />
consists of showing sample items in our showrooms to selected customers. We currently operate 10 showrooms<br />
located in Milan, Rome, Naples, Vicenza, Bari and Palermo in Italy, and in New York, Paris, Düsseldorf and Hong<br />
Kong. In addition, we make use of 18 showrooms operated by third parties located in Bologna, Reggio Calabria<br />
and Turin in Italy, and in Antwerp, Athens, Chippendale, Copenhagen, Guadalajara, Madrid, Mexico City, Munich,<br />
Porto, Sydney, Tokyo, Seoul, Osaka, Toronto, Vienna and Zurich. Once our customers begin placing orders, we<br />
generate sales projections for each garment or accessory in a collection, and we then continuously update these<br />
projections as additional orders are received. We confirm orders only for those items whose sales projections<br />
justify production; all other items are eliminated from the final collection.<br />
We support the marketing of our products with extensive advertising designed to appeal to our target market of<br />
youthful, fashion-conscious consumers. In addition, we benefit from brand-name advertising carried out by our<br />
licensors. Our advertising expenditures totaled €30.6 million, €44.5 million and €36.3 million in 2002, 2003 and<br />
2004, respectively, representing 4.6%, 6.6% and 5.1% of our net revenues in those years. We advertise principally<br />
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