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PUKETITIRI AND
KAWEKA FOREST PARK
by catherine’s cousin anne johnston
Over 40 years ago I visited the Magills at Puketitiri in
the foothills of the Kaweka mountain range and the area
made such an impression on me then, I longed to return.
And, in 2021, I did. What drew me to akaututu this part of
New Zealand? I remembered the sense of isolation, the
serenity, the silence but for birds, the beautiful trees and
crisp mountain air.
The Māori translation of Puketitiri is “the hills over
which the mutton birds flew”. The once thriving Puketitiri
settlement is 54k north west of Napier on the Puketitiri
Rd and then on to Balls Clearing Reserve a further 5k on
the Pakaututu Rd. The reserve was named after Jack Ball
who built a cabin in the only natural clearing in the dense
bush in 1890. Jack was a colourful character with only
one eye. His companions were reputed to be a one eyed
dog and a one eyed horse and he pulled his own plough!
Ball’s Clearing Reserve is an outstanding example of
dense virgin bush, the only such example left in Hawke’s
Bay. The giant podocarps are over 600 years old. They
escaped the milling in the 1930s and the forest fires of
the 1940s which wiped out most of the forest. The reserve
is managed by DOC and has a large grassy area at
the carpark, with picnic shelters and toilets. There is a
network of walking tracks from 10 mins to 40 mins duration.
However if you are a bird watcher or photographer,
the distances vary considerably!
The podocarp forest consists of Rimu, Matai, Miro,
and Kahikatea with lower growth of fushia and five finger
trees. The floor is a profusion of ground ferns and
mosses. In February it was all looking a bit sad from lack
of rain but I had the good fortune to spot a ground orchid,
since identified as Gastrodia Cuninghamii. I heard
Kereru, Tui and Korimako (bellbird) but did not see them.
However, I was frequently accompanied by cheeky,
chirpy Piwakawaka (fantail) far too busy to let me photograph
them. I believe there are long tail bats in the forest
which can often be seen at dusk.
It was great to be back up at ‘Puk’ again. There is so
much historic and natural history in this part of Hawke’s
Bay and I won’t wait so long to return next time.
Above: Fabulous photographer and happy wanderer Anne Johnston is happy as, parked up at Puk; Opposite, top left: It’s country
roads for Rob, please, everytime; Anne took the bird and flora images.
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Puketitiri – the bush, the bach, the legacy