GG_N55_Complet_FRA-web

BODEGAS PIQUERAS IS NOW
RUN BY JUAN PABLO AND ÁNGEL
BONETE PIQUERAS
As a wine region, though, located between 800 and 1,100 metres above sea level
inland from the Mediterranean coastline, Almansa boasts many positive points.
Its soils are poor, diurnal shift is significant – temperatures can range from 10°C
by night to 35°C by day – the wind promotes healthy vines and of course, sunshine
is abundant. “Here, everything is organic”, explains Cantos. “The only concern is
drought”. Fortunately, the native grape varieties and in particular Garnacha Tintorera
(Alicante Bouschet) and Monastrell (Mourvèdre), have the ability to adapt particularly
well to the dearth of water. This year, for example, the winery’s production
was barely affected by the serious drought that swept across Spain, unlike other
varieties such as Syrah. “That’s a lesson for the future”, comments Cantos.
As it happens, he has a soft spot for Garnacha Tintorera and Monastrell, particularly
a combination of the two. In fact, he claims that the blend of both varieties is
what lends Almansa’s wines their outstanding persona. No other wine region in the
world grows the two cultivars together, or at such a high elevation. “80% of Spain’s
Garnacha Tintorera is found in Almansa”, stresses Cantos. The secret is to strike a
balance between the two varieties which, in successful blends, dovetail perfectly to
produce powerful, generous wines with vibrant acidity and intense colour. “It’s not
always plain sailing however”, admits the winemaker, because neither variety has
a reputation for being easy to work with, particularly Monastrell with its extensive
growing season. “The varieties are more complex than Tempranillo”, requiring
greater care in handling and most importantly, special effort to let them express
their tremendous qualities.
62 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE