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ROUSSETTE, SAVOY’S STAR GRAPE VARIETY BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES Set amidst the Alps, Savoy likes to scale the heights of wine. In the divine galaxy formed by three appellations – alongside Savoie and Seyssel – Roussette de Savoie shines with its light yellow hues, its unique local grape variety and its hallmark flavours that certainly deserve to be explored. DOMAINE PERRIER AT THE FOOT OF MONT GRANIER 74 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SAVOY APPELLATION DOMAINE MARECHAL, A CAPTIVATING EPIC OF MOUNTAIN WINEGROWING The snow-capped peaks and ski slopes in winter make way for sunshine and hiking in the summer across the steep mountain landscapes. This picture-postcard image recalls the most memorable moments spent in these unspoilt surroundings. Savoy’s vineyards are unique and can be likened to one big garden where the soils mirror the significant changes in geology, from the birth of the Alps to the emergence of part of the Jura mountain range. The Roussette de Savoie protected appellation was legally officialised in 1973 and the wines are made from a single typical, local grape variety, which is one of their defining features. Although the varietal’s footprint remains limited due to the constraints of vineyard sites, Roussette, aka Altesse, is among the region’s star grape varieties. Allegedly, Duke Amédée II of Savoy brought the variety back from Cyprus in 1432 for the wedding of his son to the daughter of the King of Cyprus, hence the name Altesse meaning Highness chosen in her honour. From 2,000 hectares of vineyards, the region produced 107,000 hectolitres of wine in 2022, including 15,000 of Altesse over 300 hectares. “Altesse produces fresh, aromatic wines driven by dried, delicate fruits in their youth”, explains Franck Berkulès, head of communications at the Savoy wine marketing board CIVS. “On the positive side, its wines have good ageability, lasting over 20 years. However, it is very fragile and sensitive to the heat with canes that can break easily”. Roussette de Savoie may well be challenging to produce, but it is nonetheless a staple in these exceptional mountain vineyards which are a unique feature of the French wine scene. The following examples should wet your whistle! SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 75
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PASCAL JOULIN: “BEING A WINEGROWE
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CONTENTS COLUMNS / REPORTS 10 24 42
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EDITORIAL PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITO
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