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SPAIN<br />

FOCUS<br />

Sometimes they need other grape varieties to fully<br />

achieve their potential, which is when the winemaker<br />

taps into the red varietal range permitted<br />

within the appellation area, using grapes like Syrah,<br />

Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon and Tempranillo to<br />

produce his famous blends. They also need carefully<br />

curated oak maturation to enhance their power,<br />

unlike Syrah for example, notes Cantos. In fact, he<br />

has created a single varietal, sulphite-free Syrah<br />

matured in amphorae to make the winemaking<br />

process more natural and gentle. Although he has<br />

a preference for blends, he also crafts single varietal<br />

wines, invariably made from unique blocks of very<br />

old vines. “They can only be made from outstanding<br />

areas”, he points out.<br />

JUAN PABLO CANTOS SERRANO HAS BROUGHT THE WINERY INTO A NEW ERA<br />

Traditionally, Almansa is a red wine region, but<br />

whites are starting to become a talking point. In<br />

fact, Bodegas Piqueras was the first winery to grow<br />

white grapes in the appellation area (Verdejo and<br />

Sauvignon blanc) forty or so years ago. It makes<br />

increasing amounts of white wine, often matured<br />

in oak to produce food-friendly pours with lovely<br />

volume and great freshness on the palate. Again,<br />

Cantos is not one to shy away from innovation,<br />

dreaming up ideas like creating age-worthy white<br />

wines such as his single varietal Verdejo Gen One<br />

matured in oak barrels – a first for the region.<br />

THE VINES ARE FARMED USING ENVIRONMENTALLY-FRIENDLY TECHNIQUES,<br />

WITH NO PESTICIDES OR CHEMICALS<br />

Bodegas Piqueras is a pioneer and since it was<br />

founded over 100 years ago, it has always stood out<br />

for its love of the land. Its history is intrinsically<br />

linked to that of the appellation – in fact, it was<br />

the driving force behind its creation. Fuelled by a<br />

desire to showcase Almansa’s winegrowing heritage,<br />

it has made another leap forward by recruiting<br />

Juan Pablo Cantos. Choosing to go down the<br />

quality route seems to be reaping rewards because<br />

the bodega now exports to over 50 countries, including<br />

Canada and Finland, where it became the first<br />

Spanish winery to export. The company continues<br />

to amass good scores and medals, and Almansa is<br />

(finally) starting to shine. There is justice after all!<br />

SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />

63

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