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Clevertex - Grado Zero Espace Srl

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A search to the first intelligent textile material could lead us all the way back to 1929. The research of<br />

March and co-workers studied the crease recovery of cellulose fabrics in wet and dry state.<br />

One of the first examples considered as an intelligent textile is GORETEX 1 . It was developed about<br />

twenty years ago. The fabric is a breathing membrane exuding sweat without admitting the rain to get<br />

in. In a strict sense, it is not a smart material as its properties do not change under the influence of the<br />

surroundings. It can better be classified as a functional textile, its function being the breathability [3].<br />

A study about intelligent textiles is in a first stage reduced to a study about smart materials.<br />

In a second phase, it is to be considered in which way these smart materials can be processed into a<br />

textile material.<br />

A textile material is traditionally a woven fabric, a knitted fabric, a braided fabric or a non-woven. The<br />

building stones of the textile material are fibres, which can be further developed into yarns or<br />

filaments. Innumerable combinations of these source materials result into a whole range of textile<br />

materials. Each of these materials already has a number of properties, such as:<br />

• dimensions : length – width – thickness<br />

• transformability<br />

• permeability<br />

• absorptive power<br />

• stiffness<br />

• tensile strength<br />

• ...<br />

It is clear that the intelligent character of the textile material can be introduced on different levels.<br />

It can occur on fibre level, a coating can be applied, other yarns can be added to the textile material,<br />

and it is even possible to closely connect completely independent appliances with the textile.<br />

As mentioned before, three components may be present. Sensors provide a nerve system to detect<br />

signals, thus in a passive smart material, the existence of sensors is essential. The actuators act upon<br />

the detected signal either directly or from a central control unit; together with the sensors, they are the<br />

essential element for active smart materials. At even higher level, like very smart materials, another<br />

kind of unit is essential, which works like a brain, with cognition, reasoning and activating capacities.<br />

1 GORE-TEX is a membrane from polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) with a very small pore size. This prevents water droplets,<br />

which are 20.000 times bigger than the pores, from penetrating into the membrane whereas vapour molecules exuded by a<br />

transpiring body can migrate through the pores.<br />

4

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