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Clevertex - Grado Zero Espace Srl

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fibroin, keratin and collagen, dried, crimped, dipped again in water and thermo-set in the wet state<br />

under high pressure at 110°C for ten minutes, yielding shape-memory silk. As the twisted structure is<br />

stored in the memory, the silk yarn reversibly recovers its curled shape by steaming after it has been<br />

untwisted and uncurled. The silk yarn can be applied in various textile products, like outer garments,<br />

tights and knitted yarns [140].<br />

2.5.2 Applications in the clothing sector<br />

2.5.2.1 Research projects and products<br />

Alloys<br />

In practice, a shape memory alloy is usually in the shape of a spring. The melting point of this alloy lies<br />

around 1340°C, which makes it extremely suitable for protective clothing. The Ni-Ti relation is chosen<br />

in such a way that the springs are flat in unheated condition, in other words at room temperature. Due<br />

to the low shift modulus, they can easily be opened. Thus, at increasing temperatures the springs will<br />

open up. This results into a considerable increase of the shift modulus, which makes it difficult for<br />

them to close. The springs only have a one-way function: when cooling down, they will not regain their<br />

original shape. When the springs are used in heat-resistant clothing, the garment cannot be used<br />

again once it is being exposed to the heat.<br />

The pioneering UK Defense Clothing & Textiles Agency (DCTA R&TG) in this field created an<br />

intelligent suit suitable for protective clothing for firefighters at the end of the nineties. It consists of two<br />

separate layers, in which cotton bands are introduced in order to incorporate the springs. The springs<br />

are only fixed at the outside layer, so that they are minimally obstructed when expanding. The springs<br />

used are conic and have a 25mm diameter. Air is a good insulator. Under the influence of the<br />

transformed springs, both textile layers will move away from each other as a result of which an<br />

insulating air layer is formed between them.<br />

A doll wearing the garment is exposed for 8seconds to a propane burner, emitting an 80kW/m² flux of<br />

warmth. Because of the heat, the springs open up and create an insulating air layer between both<br />

textile layers.<br />

The results of this test set-up were very satisfactory. For comparison, at the backside of the doll,<br />

where no springs were attached, burns in the second and the third degree were found.<br />

The inner layer used: a Proban ® - cotton woven<br />

114

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