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Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication - Knucklebuster

Old School Chopper Frame Fabrication - Knucklebuster

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<strong>Old</strong> <strong>School</strong> <strong>Chopper</strong> <strong>Frame</strong> <strong>Fabrication</strong><br />

from http://64.172.168.34/neatstuff/<br />

Part 1<br />

The easiest frame to build is a traditional old school styled chopper since there aren’t any complicated bends or compound<br />

miters to cut so we decided to show the chassis fabrication process from A to Z as we do it. Others probably have different<br />

techniques but this system has worked for us over the past thirty years and guarantees a good straight frame using a minimum<br />

of special tools or really fancy jigs. About half of the frame is constructed without a traditional building jig being used to<br />

begin with so this is a good project to start with if you want to build a traditional frame jig but you don’t have a frame to use<br />

as a mock-up. As work progresses on the chassis you can fabricate a jig one piece at a time when it’s needed.<br />

The frame for this particular project is derived from the stock 1948 Harley hardtail design but we stretched the downtubes<br />

four inches, the backbone two inches and raised the rear axle plates plates one inch and shifted them two inches rearward.<br />

These changes result in a lower than stock frame having a perfectly straight backbone line from the steering neck to the rear<br />

axle when viewed from the side for the classic chopper look.<br />

These instructions are intended to accompany part of the material that we provide with our large-scale building plans. This is<br />

the first time that we have published them separately and while we have tried to modify the diagrams and exhibits to fit into<br />

the size limitations imposed by a web page some of the pictures may be to small to be readable. If you don't have our plans<br />

and you reach a stumbling block on your project please contact us and we'll see if we can help you out.<br />

The frame we're building for this particular project will accept Panhead, Shovel and Evo engines and Knuckleheads and<br />

Flatheads with a front motor mount spacer. It's designed to use a 140 or 150 rear tire with standard chain.<br />

Our goal for this particular project is to have a rolling chassis for under $1500 or about $6000 less than if we bought<br />

one ready-made.<br />

To start with you need thirty feet of 1.25”x.120” ERW tubing. We’d suggest that you buy two full twenty-foot lengths since<br />

this will give you some extra material in case you make a few miscalculated cuts or bends. You’ll also need two feet of<br />

1x2x.120 rectangular steel tube for cross members. To start the project you won’t need a steering neck or axle plates until<br />

further down the line so<br />

you can get this frame<br />

started with very little upfront<br />

cash outlay.<br />

After you’ve secured the<br />

tubing you can cut it into<br />

working lengths using an<br />

abrasive cutoff saw if you<br />

have one otherwise use a<br />

sawsall or even a small<br />

tubing cutter. As a last<br />

resort a regular old<br />

hacksaw will get the job<br />

done but will eat up a good<br />

chunk of time and give you<br />

some nasty blisters.<br />

Figure 1 illustrates the<br />

primary chassis<br />

components of a typical V-<br />

Twin rigid frame that<br />

consists of the following<br />

primary elements:

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