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La Freccia Marzo 2020

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DISCOVERING POMPEII<br />

JOURNEY TO THE<br />

WORLD’S LARGEST<br />

OPEN-AIR MUSEUM.<br />

FRESCOES, PAINTINGS,<br />

MOSAICS, DOMUS,<br />

TAVERNS AND TOMBS<br />

AMONGST RECENT<br />

AND SENSATIONAL<br />

DISCOVERIES<br />

Pompeii is unique in the world.<br />

This is not only because of<br />

the extraordinary state of<br />

conservation of its ruins but due to<br />

it being a palimpsest of numerous<br />

urban existences cut short in 79 AD<br />

before suddenly recommencing in the<br />

century of the Enlightenment, with the<br />

start of official excavations in 1748. From<br />

then to today, 270 years of new life have<br />

passed, a historical journey comprised<br />

of people engaged in excavations,<br />

restorations, reflections on how to<br />

manage an incredible heritage, and<br />

appreciative visitors coming in even<br />

greater numbers each year (today<br />

averaging around four million).<br />

Between those two emblematic<br />

moments of destruction and<br />

rediscovery – 79 and 1748 – came<br />

another extensive, more mysterious,<br />

underground existence – whilst<br />

above the blanket of ash and lapilli<br />

was a fertile cultivated countryside,<br />

beneath lay the walls of rooms and<br />

buried streets repeatedly revisited<br />

to rummage through the ruins. This<br />

centuries-long treasure hunt pushed<br />

ordinary people who lived, cultivated<br />

and worked above the vanished city<br />

to create pits, tunnels and burrows to<br />

search for precious objects. People<br />

have long been digging in Pompeii,<br />

both lawfully and illicitly.<br />

Today, those who stroll along the<br />

dusty streets of the ancient city, who<br />

enter its houses to admire paintings<br />

and mosaics, can barely perceive this<br />

temporal stratification, being led to<br />

believe that what can be seen – the<br />

spaces, architecture, decorations –<br />

Due gladiatori alla fine della lotta, in una scena di un affresco scoperto di recente nella Regio V<br />

Two gladiators at the end of the fight, in a the scene of the last fresco found in the Regio V<br />

is a set image of a reality stopped<br />

in its tracks once and for all by the<br />

eruption of Vesuvius and extracted<br />

from the incessant flow of time. The<br />

city continues to offer thrills and<br />

reflections, to inspire fashions and<br />

forms of art, whilst the official workers<br />

recall the incessant commitment (in<br />

removing the lapilli, the restorations,<br />

the reconstructions) and also the<br />

damage that man has inflicted<br />

over time (carelessness, incorrect<br />

operations, clandestine excavations –<br />

sometimes more ruthless than nature).<br />

What is the excavated city of today,<br />

our contemporary Pompeii? We can<br />

say that today’s Pompeii is the one<br />

experiencing a new life, an example of<br />

redemption following the dark years<br />

of scandals and collapses (including<br />

the most striking one of the Schola<br />

Armaturarum in 2010). At that time, the<br />

prolonged lack of systematic checks<br />

and constant maintenance led to<br />

situations of degradation so advanced<br />

that they could not be safeguarded by<br />

standard interventions alone. Pompeii<br />

needed a Grande Progetto – a Great<br />

Project – able to address all the critical<br />

issues in a pervasive and extensive way,<br />

finally in an urban scale. Commenced<br />

in 2012 but only coming into full force<br />

between 2014 and 2019, thanks to a<br />

new law (the Valore Cultura decree)<br />

and the commitment of two ministers,<br />

Massimo Bray and Dario Franceschini,<br />

the Grande Progetto Pompei has<br />

led to a change in governance (with<br />

the Carabinieri General Giovanni<br />

Nistri as General Director of the GPP,<br />

today replaced by General Mauro<br />

Cipolletta, and the author as Special<br />

Superintendent and now Director<br />

General of the Archaeological Park),<br />

putting in place qualified forces and<br />

skills, enlivened by a common goal to<br />

do a good job and do it quickly.<br />

In this way, fundamental operations<br />

and activities were undertaken to<br />

conserve and preserve Pompeii,<br />

solving many of the problems never<br />

before addressed, securing the entire<br />

archaeological area, restoring and<br />

reopening whole zones, buildings<br />

and roads denied to the public for too<br />

long. In opening access to 32 hectares<br />

out of the 44 excavated plus new<br />

pathways, including one for people<br />

with disabilities, special attention<br />

was paid to fruition, to the public<br />

archaeology, defining communication<br />

and dissemination systems that now<br />

transmit a completely new image of<br />

Pompeii.<br />

With the Grande Progetto, we finally<br />

returned to digging, which had not<br />

been done since the 1960s. The works<br />

to secure the excavation sources, a<br />

project that involved the re-shaping<br />

and stabilisation of the escarpments<br />

65

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