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Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Coach Museum) The most visited<br />

attraction in Lisbon, the National Coach Museum is the finest of its type in the<br />

world. Founded by Amélia, wife of Carlos I, it’s housed in a former 18th-century riding<br />

academy connected to the Belém Royal Palace. The coaches stand in a former horse ring;<br />

most date from the 17th to the 19th centuries. Drawing the most interest is a trio of<br />

opulently gilded baroque carriages used by the Portuguese ambassador to the Vatican at<br />

the time of Pope Clement XI (1716). Also on display is a 17th-century coach in which<br />

the Spanish Habsburg king, Phillip II, journeyed from Madrid to Lisbon to see his new<br />

possession.<br />

Praça de Afonso de Albuquerque. & 21/361-08-50. Admission 4€, 1.60€ ages 14–25, free for children<br />

under 14. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; closed holidays.<br />

Padrão dos Descobrimentos Like the prow of a caravel from the Age of Discovery,<br />

the Memorial to the Discoveries stands on the Tagus, looking ready to strike out<br />

across the Sea of Darkness. Notable explorers, chiefly Vasco da Gama, are immortalized<br />

in stone along the ramps.<br />

At the point where the two ramps meet is a representation of Henry the Navigator,<br />

whose genius opened up new worlds. The memorial was unveiled in 1960, and one of<br />

the stone figures is that of a kneeling Philippa of Lancaster, Henry’s English mother.<br />

Other figures in the frieze symbolize the crusaders (represented by a man holding a flag<br />

with a cross), navigators, monks, cartographers, and cosmographers. At the top of the<br />

prow is the coat of arms of <strong>Portugal</strong> at the time of Manuel the Fortunate. On the floor<br />

in front of the memorial lies a map of the world in multicolored marble, with the dates<br />

of the discoveries set in metal.<br />

Praça da Boa Esperança, Av. de Brasília. & 21/303-19-50. www.padraodescobrimentos.egeac.pt. Admission<br />

2.50€. May–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–7pm; Oct–Apr Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.<br />

Torre de Belém The quadrangular Tower of Belém is a monument to <strong>Portugal</strong>’s<br />

Age of Discovery. Erected between 1515 and 1520, the Manueline-style tower is <strong>Portugal</strong>’s<br />

classic landmark and often serves as a symbol of the country. A monument to <strong>Portugal</strong>’s<br />

great military and naval past, the tower stands on or near the spot where the<br />

caravels once set out across the sea.<br />

Its architect, Francisco de Arruda, blended Gothic and Moorish elements, using such<br />

architectural details as twisting ropes carved of stone. The coat of arms of Manuel I rests<br />

above the loggia, and balconies grace three sides of the monument. Along the balustrade<br />

of the loggias, stone crosses represent the Portuguese crusaders.<br />

The richness of the facade fades once you cross the drawbridge and enter the Renaissance-style<br />

doorway. Gothic severity reigns. A few antiques can be seen, including a<br />

16th-century throne graced with finials and an inset paneled with pierced Gothic tracery.<br />

When a Rossio Is a Rossio Is a Rossio<br />

With apologies to Gertrude Stein (a rose is a rose is a rose), there is some confusion<br />

about the word “Rossio” in Lisbon. The designation can mean three distinctively<br />

different areas: (1) the Rossio train station entered from the Avenida da<br />

Liberdade, (2) the large square, Praça de Dom Pedro IV, and (3) a metro stop,<br />

Praça Figueira.<br />

129<br />

EXPLORING LISBON 6<br />

THE TOP ATTRACTIONS: THE ALFAMA, BELEM & MUSEUMS

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