Portugal

The medieval fortress on Berlenga, Forte de São João Batista, was
destroyed in 1666 when 28 Portuguese tried to withstand a force of 1,500
Spaniards who bombarded it from 15 ships. Rebuilt toward the end of the 17th
century, it now houses a hostel. You can take a stairway from the fortress to the
lighthouse, stopping along the way to look over the panorama of the archipelago.
A cobblestone walk from the top of the lighthouse site takes you down
to a little bay with fishermen’s cottages along a beach.
The Furado Grande is a long marine tunnel that leads to a creek walled in
by the granite cliffs. Under the fortress is a cave the locals call the blue grotto,
but its pool is really closer to emerald green. The clear waters of the grotto and
the island itself make Berlenga a mecca for snorkelers and scuba divers. Local
waters contain an array of fish, including bream, red mullet, and sea bass. To
reach the island, head first for Peniche, 92km (57 miles) north of Lisbon. A ferry
makes two trips a day to the island in July and August; the first leaves at
9:30am. A same-day round-trip ticket costs 18€. From September to June, one
ferry a day leaves at 10am and returns at 6pm. This boat ride is rough: If you’re
prone to getting seasick, take the proper precautions.
town. Once a private mansion, this is now a charming, graceful inn, consisting of three
floors plus a basement that has been turned into a saloon with a pool table and bar.
Bedrooms vary in size and dimensions, but all are comfortable, excellently maintained,
and with midsize private bathrooms.
Rua da Fonte Nova, 2461-601 Alcobaça. & 26/259-83-00. Fax 26/259-84-30. www.challetfontenova.pt.
10 units. 125€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Bar. In room: A/C, TV, hair
dryer, free Wi-Fi.
Hotel D. Inês de Castro One of the town’s leading inns, this small hotel is strictly
functional and of recent construction. It is, nonetheless, comfortable and convenient for
an overnight stopover. Bedrooms are midsize and tastefully furnished, with immaculately
maintained tiled bathrooms. Rated three stars by the government, the hotel serves a
generous breakfast.
Rua Costa Veiga 44–48, 2460-028 Alcobaça. & 26/258-23-55. Fax 26/258-12-58. www.hotel-inesde
castro.com. 37 units. 50€–100€. MC, V. Amenities: Breakfast room. In room: A/C, TV.
Inexpensive
Hotel Santa Maria The most attractive modern hotel in town is ideally located
in a quiet but central part of the historic city, on a sloping street just above the plaza in
front of the monastery. Guest rooms are small and a bit cramped, but filled with polished
paneling cut into geometrical shapes. They contain comfortable contemporary chairs,
and some have views and balconies over the monastery and square. If parking is a problem,
the hotel will open its garage for free.
217
ESTREMADURA 9
ALCOBACA