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objects that you might find baffling, but which exert powerful iconic appeal to the Portuguese.<br />

What, for example, are soaps by Claus Porti, and how, exactly, should that<br />

kitschy plastic model of Saint Anthony be constructed and at what time of the year? Look<br />

for lavender waters, kitchen tools, handicrafts, artists’ supplies, books, and pomades that<br />

evoke waves of memories for the Portuguese. Rua Anchieta 11. & 21/346-50-73. www.avida<br />

portuguesa.com. Metro: Chiado.<br />

Empório Casa Bazar In the Príncipe real district, this is like some vast emporium of<br />

flea market kitsch, and, as such, is one of the most amusing stores in Lisbon. Expect<br />

one-of-a-kind gift or household items that might have come from anywhere, certainly<br />

Iberia, but also Italy or Brazil. You might pass over those plastic Portuguese saints but<br />

latch onto some enchanting Portuguese ceramics. Rua Dom Pedro V 65. & 21/096-40-93.<br />

www.emporiocasa.pt. Metro: Rato.<br />

Markets<br />

See also the Ribeira Nova market in the “Secrets of Lisbon” box on p. 130.<br />

Feira da Ladra Nearly everything you can imagine is for sale at this open-air street<br />

market, which competes with the flea markets of Madrid and Paris in terms of surprising<br />

finds. Vendors peddle their wares on Tuesday and Saturday; for the finest pickings, go in<br />

the morning. The market is about a 5-minute walk from the waterfront in the Alfama<br />

district or a short walk from the Estação Santa Apolónia metro stop. It’s best to start your<br />

browsing at Campo de Santa Clara and then work your way up the hilly street, lined with<br />

portable stalls and individual displays. Note that haggling is expected here.<br />

Metals<br />

Casa Maciel Lda Founded in 1810 as a specialized tinker shop that created the city’s<br />

best lanterns and original cake molds, this house has distinguished itself in numerous<br />

national and international contests. You can select from the in-house patterns or have the<br />

artisans create pieces from your designs; the store will also ship items. Rua da Misericórdia<br />

63–65. & 21/342-24-51. Metro: Chiado. Tram: 28. Bus: 10, 24, 29, or 30.<br />

Shopping Centers<br />

Centro Colombo In the Luz district, this vast complex is the biggest shopping<br />

center on the Iberian peninsula. Its array of merchandise is stunning, a dazzling<br />

showcase of the capitalistic system, with more than 420 stores. There’s everything here<br />

from an indoor amusement park to a health club, even 10 screens showing different<br />

movies. For your dining selection, you face a bewildering choice of 60 restaurants, ranging<br />

from a pizza parlor to a Chinese eatery to Burger King. Avenida Lusíada. & 21/711-36-<br />

36. Metro: Colégio Militar. .<br />

Centro Vasco da Gama This modern shopping mall is hailed as the finest in <strong>Portugal</strong>,<br />

with 164 shops, 36 restaurants, 10 movie theaters, a health club, and a playground.<br />

Along with Portuguese-made products, you’ll also find a lot of designer labels in clothing,<br />

including Vuitton and Hugo Boss selling at cheaper prices than you might find in other<br />

western European capitals. The shops keep hours that benefit almost all customers:<br />

They’re open daily 10am to midnight. Av. Dom João II within Parque das Nações. & 21/893-<br />

06-00. www.centrovascodagama.pt. Metro: Estação Oriente.<br />

151<br />

EXPLORING LISBON 6<br />

LISBON SHOPPING: FROM ANTIQUES TO WINE

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