Portugal

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EXPLORING MADEIRA MADEIRA & PORTO SANTO
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Porto Muniz. Your meal begins here when the waiter comes around and serves you a
heaping basket of homemade bread and a carafe of the local wine. The soups—especially
the wonderfully spicy fish soup—are hearty and the portions are generous. The best main
courses are the grilled fish of the day. The filet of swordfish, with rice studded with
morsels of seafood, is our favorite. The cooks also prepare a nightly selection of fresh
vegetables. Main courses are 8€ to 16€. Major credit cards are accepted. It’s open daily
from noon to 10pm.
After leaving Porto Moniz, you can continue southwest along N101, going back along
a winding road via Ribeira Brava and Câmara de Lobos until you finally make the full
circuit back into Funchal.
Santana & Central Madeira
For a final look at Madeira, you can cut through the center of the island, heading north
from Funchal. This route takes you to such scenic highlights as Pico do Arieiro and
Santana, and is one of the finest parts of Madeira for mountain hiking.
Pico do Arieiro
This mountain and the settlement built on its side, 36km (22 miles) north of Funchal,
really evoke the island’s volcanic nature. When the 1,780m (5,838-ft.) peak is not covered
by clouds (it’s likely to be obscured Dec–Mar), the panoramic views are stunning.
Pico do Arieiro is the third-tallest mountain on the island. To reach it, follow Rua 31 de
Janeiro out of Funchal, and take N103 as it climbs to Monte. When you reach the pass
at Poiso, some 10km (61 ⁄4 miles) north of Monte, take a left and continue to follow the
signposts into Pico do Arieiro. The best access (and most scenic route) to Pico Ruivo is
from Pico do Arieiro. The hike is 8km (5 miles) on foot and takes approximately 4 hours.
Once at the miradouro (belvedere) at Pico do Arieiro, you’ll have a panoramic
sweep of the central mountains of Madeira. To the southeast is the village of Curral das
Freiras (see above). To the immediate northeast you can take in a panorama of Penha
d’Águia (Eagle’s Rock), a rocky spike that is one of the most photographed sites in
Madeira. You will also have a view of Pico Ruivo to the northwest (Madeira’s highest
point, at 1,860m/6,101 ft.), which can be accessed from Pico do Arieiro by a difficult
8km (5-mile) hill walk.
Ribeiro Frio
Instead of taking the left fork at Poiso (see above) and heading for Pico do Arieiro, you
can go straight to reach Ribeiro Frio, an enchanting spot 11km (63 ⁄4 miles) north of Poiso.
Ribeiro Frio (Cold River) is a little village in the Madeira Forest Park (a protected area
of trees and mountains in the center of Madeira that is spared from development) that
occupies a dramatic setting in view of waterfalls, jagged peaks, and sleepy valleys.
You can take one of the most dramatic walks in Madeira from Ribeiro Frio. Just follow
the signposts from Ribeiro Frio directing you to the Balcões . This walk passes along
Levada do Furado and takes you on footpaths cut out of basalt rock until you reach the
belvedere, whose dizzying perch overlooks the jagged peaks of the Pico do Arieiro, Pico
das Torres, and Pico Ruivo. This 40-minute walk is of only moderate difficulty and is
suitable for the average visitor with no special hiking skills.
If the mountain air gives you an appetite, head south from Balcões for a 5-minute
drive to Victor’s, on N103 in Ribeiro Frio (& 29/157-58-98), a chaletlike mountain
restaurant known for afternoon tea and good regional food and wine. Trout from the area
hatchery (prepared in a variety of ways) is a specialty; we prefer it grilled golden brown.