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224<br />

ESTREMADURA<br />

9<br />

FATIMA<br />

day arrive from Lisbon. The 1 1 ⁄2-hour trip costs 8€ one-way. For information and schedules,<br />

call & 24/953-16-11.<br />

BY CAR From Batalha (see above), continue east along Route 356 for 15km (9 1 ⁄4<br />

miles).<br />

Visitor Information<br />

The tourist office is on Avenida Dom José Alves Correia da Silva (& 24/953-11-39;<br />

www.rt-leiriafatima.pt) and is open daily from 10am to 1pm and 3 to 7pm. In August,<br />

it’s open daily 10am to 9pm.<br />

EXPLORING THE TOWN<br />

A PILGRIMAGE TO FÁTIMA On May 13 and October 13, pilgrims overrun the<br />

town, causing the roads leading to Fátima to be choked with pilgrims in donkey carts,<br />

on bicycles, or in cars, beginning on the 12th of each month. Many also approach on<br />

foot; some even “walk” on their knees in penance. Once in Fátima, they camp out until<br />

day breaks. In the central square, which is larger than St. Peter’s in Rome, a statue of the<br />

Madonna passes through the crowd between about 10am and 12:30pm. When it does,<br />

some 75,000 handkerchiefs flutter in the breeze.<br />

Then as many as are able crowd in to visit a small slanted-roof shed known as the<br />

Chapel of the Apparitions. Inside stands a single white column marking the spot where<br />

a small holm oak once grew. An image of the Virgin Mary reputedly appeared over this<br />

oak on May 13, 1917, when she is said to have spoken to three shepherd children. That<br />

oak long ago disappeared, torn to pieces by souvenir collectors. The original chapel constructed<br />

here was dynamited on the night of March 6, 1922, by skeptics who suspected<br />

the church of staging the so-called miracle.<br />

While World War I dragged on, three devout children—Lúcia de Jesús and her cousins,<br />

Jacinta and Francisco Marto—claimed that they saw the first appearance of “a lady”<br />

on the tableland of Cova da Iria. Her coming had been foreshadowed in 1916 by what<br />

they would later cite as “an angel of peace,” who is said to have appeared before them.<br />

Attempts were made to suppress their story, but it spread quickly. During the July<br />

appearance, the lady was reported to have revealed three secrets to them, one of which<br />

prefigured the coming of World War II; another was connected with Russia’s “rejection<br />

of God.” The final secret, a “sealed message” recorded by Lúcia, was opened by church<br />

officials in 1960, but the contents of that message were only recently published. According<br />

to the Vatican, it predicted that Pope John Paul II would be shot. Acting on orders<br />

from the Portuguese government, the mayor of a nearby town threw the children into<br />

jail and threatened them with torture, even death in burning oil. Still, they would not be<br />

intimidated and stuck to their story. The lady reportedly made six appearances between<br />

May and the final one on October 13, 1917, when the children were joined by an estimated<br />

70,000 people who witnessed the famous Miracle of the Sun. The day had begun<br />

with pouring rain and driving winds. Observers from all over the world testified that at<br />

noon “the sky opened up” and the sun seemed to spin out of its axis and hurtle toward<br />

the earth. Many at the site feared the Last Judgment was upon them. Others later<br />

reported that they thought the scorching sun was crashing into the earth and would<br />

consume it in flames. Many agreed that a major miracle of modern times had occurred.<br />

Only the children reported seeing Our Lady, however.

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