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ocks, tropical plants grow in such profusion that the place resembles a rainforest.<br />

The park lies at the top of Avenida da Liberdade, crowned by a statue<br />

of the Marquês de Pombal with his “house pet,” a lion. There’s a 1.20€ fee to<br />

enter the greenhouse, which is open daily 9am to 5:30pm. Metro: Parque or<br />

Marquês de Pombal. Bus: 2, 11, 12, 27, 32, 38, 44, 45, or 83.<br />

Cemitério dos Ingleses (British Cemetery) The British Cemetery lies up<br />

Rua da Estrela at one end of the Estrela Gardens. It’s famous as the burial<br />

place of Henry Fielding, the novelist and dramatist who’s best known for Tom<br />

Jones. Fielding went to Lisbon in 1754 to try to recover his health; his posthumous<br />

tract Journal of a Voyage to Lisbon tells the story of that trip. He<br />

reached Lisbon in August and died 2 months later. A monument honoring<br />

him was erected in 1830. Open daily 8am to 2pm; ring the bell for entry. Bus:<br />

9, 20, 27, or 38.<br />

Jardim Botânico (Botanical Garden) Connected with the National Costume<br />

Museum is the Parque do Monteiro-Mor, Largo Julio de Castilho, Lumiar.<br />

It’s one of Lisbon’s most beautiful botanical gardens. A restaurant (& 21/758-<br />

58-52) lies on the park grounds. The park is open Tuesday through Sunday<br />

from 10am to 6pm. Admission is 1.50€ and free for children under 14. It’s free<br />

to all Sunday until 2pm. A combination ticket with the National Costume<br />

Museum (& 21/759-03-18) costs 3€ for adults and 1.50€ for students, teachers,<br />

and children under 14. Metro: Lumiar. Bus: 1, 3, 7, or 36.<br />

died in 1955. The modern, multimillion-dollar center is in a former private estate that<br />

belonged to the count of Vilalva.<br />

The collection covers Egyptian, Greek, and Roman antiquities; a remarkable assemblage<br />

of Islamic art, including ceramics and textiles from Turkey and Persia; Syrian glass,<br />

books, bindings, and miniatures; and Chinese vases, Japanese prints, and lacquerware.<br />

The European displays include medieval illuminated manuscripts and ivories ,<br />

15th- to 19th-century paintings and sculpture, Renaissance tapestries and medals,<br />

important collections of 18th-century French decorative works, French Impressionist<br />

paintings, René Lalique jewelry, and glassware.<br />

In a move requiring great skill in negotiation, Gulbenkian managed to buy art from<br />

the Hermitage in St. Petersburg. Among his most notable acquisitions are two Rembrandts:<br />

Portrait of an Old Man and Alexander the Great. Two other well-known paintings<br />

are Portrait of Hélène Fourment, by Peter Paul Rubens, and Portrait of Madame Claude<br />

Monet, by Pierre-Auguste Renoir. In addition, we suggest that you seek out Mary Cassatt’s<br />

The Stocking. The French sculptor Jean-Antoine Houdon is represented by a statue<br />

of Diana. Silver made by François-Thomas Germain, once used by Catherine the Great,<br />

is also here, as is one piece by Thomas Germain, the father.<br />

131<br />

EXPLORING LISBON 6<br />

THE TOP ATTRACTIONS: THE ALFAMA, BELEM & MUSEUMS

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