Portugal

318
COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS
12
VISEU
Visitor Information
The Viseu Tourist Board is on Avenida Gulbenkian (& 23/242-09-50). Hours vary
throughout the year, so call ahead.
WHAT TO SEE & DO IN VISEU
Exploring the Town
Viseu offers much to see and explore at random. Wander below the cubistic network of
overlapping tiled rooftops, and through the narrow alleys and encroaching macadam
streets. If your time is limited, head to Largo da Sé, the showplace of Viseu. Here, on
one of the most harmonious squares in Portugal, you’ll find the town’s two most important
buildings.
Largo da Sé (Cathedral) The severe Renaissance facade of this cathedral evokes
a fortress. Two lofty bell towers, unadorned stone up to the summit of the balustrades,
with crowning cupolas, are visible from almost any point in or around town. The secondstory
windows—two rectangular and one oval—are latticed and symmetrically surrounded
by niches containing religious statuary.
On your right, you’ll first find the two-story Renaissance cloister, adorned with classic
pillars and arcades faced with tiles. The cathedral interior is essentially Gothic but infused
with Manueline and baroque decorations. Plain, slender Romanesque columns line the
nave, supporting the vaulted Manueline ceiling with nautically roped groining . The
basic color scheme inside plays brilliant gilding against muted gold stone. The emphasis
is on the Roman arched chancel, climaxed by an elegantly carved retable above the
main altar. The chancel makes ingenious use of color counterpoint, with copper, green
gold, and brownish yellow complementing the gilt work. The ceiling continues in the
sacristy.
Largo da Sé. & 23/243-60-65. Free admission. Daily 9am–noon and 2–6pm.
Museu de Grão Vasco This museum, next door to the cathedral, was named
after the 16th-century painter, also known as Vasco Fernandes. The Portuguese master’s
major works are on display; especially notable is La Pontecôte, in which lancelike tongues
of fire hurtle toward the saints, some devout, others apathetic. There’s also an intriguing
collection of sculpture from the 13th to the 18th centuries, with a stunning Throne of
Grace from the 1300s.
Paço dos Três Escalões. & 23/242-20-49. www.ipmuseus.pt. Admission 4€, free for children under 15.
Tues 2–6pm; Wed–Sun 10am–6pm.
Shopping
Viseu has many handicrafts shops. On Rua Direita, the main street, you’ll find merchants
selling pottery, wrought iron, and woodcarvings. The most comprehensive stock
is at the Casa da Ribeira, Largo Nossa Senhora da Conceição, Praça da República
(& 23/242-97-61), which carries selections from many of the region’s best artisans.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Avenida Avenida is a personalized small hotel right off Rossio, the
town’s main plaza. It’s the domain of the personable Mario Abrantes da Motto Veiga, who
has combined his collection of African and Chinese antiques with pieces of fine old
Portuguese furniture. The small guest rooms vary in size and character. For example,
room no. 210B boasts a high-coved bed and an old refectory table and chair; an adjoining
chamber has a wooden spindle bed and a marble-topped chest.