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80 covered the streets and squares, houses collapsed, roofs were thrown onto foundations and the foundations crumbled.” All told, 30,000 inhabitants were crushed beneath the tumbling debris. When the survivors of the initial shocks ran from their burning homes toward the mighty Tagus, they were met with walls of water 12m (39 ft.) high. Estimates vary, but approximately 60,000 drowned or died in the 6-day holocaust. After the ashes had settled, the Marquês de Pombal, the prime minister, ordered that the dead be buried and the city rebuilt at once. To accomplish that ambitious plan, the king gave him virtually dictatorial powers. What Pombal ordered constructed was a city of wide, symmetrical boulevards leading into handsome squares dominated by fountains and statuary. Bordering these wide avenues would be black-and-white mosaic sidewalks, the most celebrated in Europe. Today, the mixture of old and “new” (post-earthquake) here is so harmonious that travelers consider Lisbon one of the most beautiful cities on earth. Foun- 5 tains abound; one, the Samaritan, dates from the 16th century. The boulevards flank new high-rise apartment houses, while in other quarters, laundry hanging from 18th-century houses flaps in the wind. The Tagus, the river flowing through Lisbon, has been called the city’s eternal lover—and in many ways it is the most vital part of the city. From the Bairro Alto (Upper City), cable cars run down to the waterfront, where boats from Africa unload their freight. This is also a city that gives nicknames to everything, from its districts to its kings. Fernando, who built one of the most characteristic walls around Lisbon, was honored with the appellation “the Beautiful.” Streets bear colorful names or designations, such as Rua do Açúcar (Street of Sugar). Praça do Comércio, the bull’s-eye center of the Lisbon waterfront, is also known as Black Horse Square. SETTLING INTO LISBON Many who have never been to Lisbon know it well from watching World War II spy movies on TV. In the classic film Casablanca, Lisbon embodied the passage point to the Americas for refugees stranded in northern Africa. During the war, Lisbon, officially neutral, was a hotbed of intrigue and espionage. It was also a haven for thousands of refugees, including deposed royalty. LISBON TODAY No longer the provincial town it was as late as the 1970s, postmillennium Lisbon has blossomed into a cosmopolitan city often beset with construction pains. Many of its old structures are simply falling apart and must be either restored or replaced. Some of the formerly clogged streets of the Baixa have been turned into cobblestone pedestrian malls. Lisbon is growing and evolving, and the city is considerably more sophisticated than it once was, no doubt due in part to <strong>Portugal</strong>’s joining the European Union (E.U.). The smallest capital of Europe is no longer a backwater at the far corner of Iberia. Some 1.8 million people now live in Lisbon, and many of its citizens, having drifted in from the far corners of the world, don’t even speak Portuguese. Textiles, shoes, clothing, china, and earthenware are among its leading industries. Sections along Avenida da Liberdade, the main street of Lisbon, at times evoke thoughts of Paris. As in Paris, sidewalk portrait painters will sketch your likeness, and artisans will offer you jewelry claiming that it’s gold (when you both know it isn’t). Handicrafts, from embroidery to leatherwork, are peddled right on the streets as they are in New York. Consider an off-season visit, especially in the spring or fall, when the city enjoys glorious weather. The city isn’t overrun with visitors then, and you can wander about and take in its attractions without being trampled or broiled during the hot, humid weather of July and August.
Av. Eng. D. Pacheco Av. Joaquim Auto-Estrada 1/10 mile 0 To Zoo, Benifica, Gulbenkian Museum Rua Joaquim Bonifácio N Rua da Escola do Exército Rua Luciano Cordeiro Praça do Marquês de Pombal Rua Castilho A. d. AguiarESTEFÂNIA AMOREIRAS Rua Palmira Av. Almirante Reis Rua dos Anjos Rua Gomes Freire R. d. Moçambique Paço da Rainha Rua Luciano Cordeiro Baptista Rue do Passadiço Rua Rodrigues Sampaio Rua de San José Av. da Liberdade Rua Alexandre Herculano Rua Rodrigo de Fonseca Rua das Amoreiras To Estoril, Sintra, Parque de Monsanto 100 meters 0 Largo de Santa Bárbara Church Rua Braamcamp Rua Barata Rua Rosa Araújo Rua de S. Filipe Nery Rua Silva Carvalho Information Railway Rua Dom João V Campo de Ourique Rua Castilho Rua do Salitre Largo do Rato Rio do Sol ao Rato Rua Nova de S. Mamede Silva Carvalho Rua Ferr. Borges Largo de Santa Bárbara Rua Maria da Fonte R. Renato Rua da Fé Rua da Escola Rua Damasceno Rua de S. Rua da Rua Instituto Bacteriologico Graça Rua Senhora da Gloria Rua da Palma Lázaro Av. da Liberdade Rua de Alegria Imprensa Nacional Rua de São Bento Av. Pedro Álvares Cabral Carvalho Rua do Cabo PORTUGAL Praça da Alegria RATO Rua de Lisbon Jardim Jardim Botânico Botânico Rua Saraiva Rua S. de Monte Rua do Benformoso Rua da Conç. da Gloria Rua Leite de Vasconcelos Calç. de San Rua de Cavaleiros Rua de San José Praça dos Rua de Gloria Praça Praça do do Principe Principe Real Real Rua de S. Marçal Rua da Restauradores Rua das Taipas Rua de Santo Amaro Rua de Pedro V Rua Eduardo Coelho Rua da Rosa Século Rua da Verónica Rue d. V. do Operàrio Rua S. Boaventura Rua da Quintinha Rua de São Bento Rua de S. Bernardo Jardim Jardim Jardim de de de Estrêla Estrêla Estrêla Rua da Estrêla GRAÇA Largo de Graça da Caiçada ESTRÊLA Rua Bela Vista C. da Graça Rua do Castelo to André Rua d. Betesga Rua da Atalaia Rua do Rua da Rosa Rua de dos Polais Rua Borges Carneiro To Municipal Museum Teatro Nacional Rua das Francesinhas Estrêla Praça da Figueira Rossio Station Praça Rossio Museu St. Roque Rua da Lapa BAIXA BAIRRO ALTO Calçada do Rua dos Remedios Rua da Esco las Gerais Rua da Madalena Rua dos Fanqueiros Combro Calhariz Rua do Sol Rua da Prata Rua Augusta Rua do Ouro Rua Garret Praça Camões Rua F. Tomás R. do Puço Av. Dom Carlos I Rua du Quelhas Rua das Praças Rua do Meio Santa Apolónia Station Museu Militar Castelo São Jorge Rua da Madres LAPA Rua S. João Esperança Rua Garcia de Orta THE ALFAMA Rua da Costa Rua das Olaris Lisbon Av. Infante D. Henrique Calçada Marquês de Abrantes Museu de Artes Decorativas R. do Limoeiro Rua de S. Mamede Rua Dom Luis I Rua de S. Julião Museu Nacional de Arte Contemporânea Teatro São Carlos Rua C. do Sé Rua do Comércio Rua Vitor Rua d. Bacaloeiros Cordon Rua da Boavista Rua de S. Paulo Largo de Santos Rua da Rua das Janelas Verdes Rio Tejo (Tagus River) Sé (Cathedral) Av. Vinte e Quatro de Julho Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga 81 SETTLING INTO LISBON 5
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Portugal
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Portugal 21st Edition by Darwin Por
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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9 ESTREMADURA 208 1 Obidos. . . . .
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LIST OF MAPS Best Portugal Itinerar
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FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS, ICONS & A
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2 THE BEST OF PORTUGAL 1 FROMMER’
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4 THE BEST OF PORTUGAL 1 THE BEST B
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6 THE BEST OF PORTUGAL 1 THE BEST H
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8 THE BEST OF PORTUGAL 1 THE BEST P
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10 THE BEST OF PORTUGAL 1 THE BEST
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12 THE BEST OF PORTUGAL 1 THE BEST
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2 Portugal in Depth Portugal, posit
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16 PORTUGAL IN DEPTH 2 LOOKING BACK
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22 PORTUGAL IN DEPTH 2 PORTUGAL’S
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24 PORTUGAL IN DEPTH 2 THE LAY OF T
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26 PORTUGAL IN DEPTH 2 PORTUGAL IN
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28 PORTUGAL IN DEPTH 2 EATING & DRI
Page 42 and 43: 30 PORTUGAL IN DEPTH 2 EATING & DRI
Page 44 and 45: 32 PORTUGAL CALENDAR OF EVENTS PLAN
Page 46 and 47: 34 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS & CUSTOMS PLA
Page 48 and 49: 36 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND P
Page 58 and 59: 46 MONEY & COSTS PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Page 60 and 61: 48 HEALTH PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO POR
Page 62 and 63: 50 SPECIALIZED TRAVEL RESOURCES PLA
Page 64 and 65: 52 SPECIALIZED TRAVEL RESOURCES PLA
Page 66 and 67: 54 SUSTAINABLE TOURISM PLANNING YOU
Page 68 and 69: 56 THE ACTIVE VACATION PLANNER PLAN
Page 70 and 71: 58 ESCORTED GENERAL-INTEREST TOURS
Page 72 and 73: 60 STAYING CONNECTED PLANNING YOUR
Page 74 and 75: 62 TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS PLANNING
Page 76 and 77: 64 TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS PLANNING
Page 78 and 79: 66 most crowded and glamorous in th
Page 80 and 81: 68 SUGGESTED PORTUGAL ITINERARIES 4
Page 94 and 95: 82 SETTLING INTO LISBON 5 ESSENTIAL
Page 96 and 97: 84 SETTLING INTO LISBON 5 NEIGHBORH
Page 98 and 99: 86 SETTLING INTO LISBON 5 GETTING A
Page 100 and 101: 88 SETTLING INTO LISBON 5 FAST FACT
Page 102 and 103: 90 SETTLING INTO LISBON 5 WHERE TO
Page 134 and 135: 6 Exploring Lisbon Many visitors us
Page 136 and 137: 124 EXPLORING LISBON 6 THE TOP ATTR
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130 EXPLORING LISBON 6 THE TOP ATTR
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132 EXPLORING LISBON 6 MORE ATTRACT
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138 EXPLORING LISBON 6 WALKING TOUR
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144 EXPLORING LISBON 6 OUTDOOR & RE
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146 EXPLORING LISBON 6 LISBON SHOPP
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152 EXPLORING LISBON 6 LISBON AFTER
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7 Estoril, Cascais & Sintra Lured b
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162 ESTORIL, CASCAIS & SINTRA 7 EST
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164 ESTORIL, CASCAIS & SINTRA 7 EST
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166 ESTORIL, CASCAIS & SINTRA 7 CAS
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176 ESTORIL, CASCAIS & SINTRA 7 GUI
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178 ESTORIL, CASCAIS & SINTRA 7 GUI
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180 ESTORIL, CASCAIS & SINTRA 7 SIN
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192 ESTORIL, CASCAIS & SINTRA 7 ERI
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8 South of the Tagus Historically c
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196 SOUTH OF THE TAGUS 8 AZEITAO ES
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198 SOUTH OF THE TAGUS 8 SESIMBRA T
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200 SOUTH OF THE TAGUS 8 PORTINHO D
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202 SOUTH OF THE TAGUS 8 SETUBAL ou
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204 SOUTH OF THE TAGUS 8 SETUBAL ar
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206 SOUTH OF THE TAGUS 8 PALMELA sp
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9 Estremadura is a land of contrast
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210 ESTREMADURA 9 OBIDOS Visitor In
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212 ESTREMADURA 9 OBIDOS The Beache
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214 ESTREMADURA 9 OBIDOS A Side Tri
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216 ESTREMADURA 9 ALCOBACA Off the
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218 ESTREMADURA 9 NAZARE Rua Franci
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220 ESTREMADURA 9 NAZARE comes to h
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222 ESTREMADURA 9 BATALHA Visitor I
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224 ESTREMADURA 9 FATIMA day arrive
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226 ESTREMADURA 9 FATIMA Rua João
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228 The sea is the source of life,
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230 THE ALGARVE 10 SAGRES: “THE E
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232 THE ALGARVE 10 LAGOS Costa do O
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234 THE ALGARVE 10 LAGOS SHOPPING A
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236 THE ALGARVE 10 PORTIMAO Estrada
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238 THE ALGARVE 10 PORTIMAO EXPLORI
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240 THE ALGARVE 10 PORTIMAO Here yo
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242 THE ALGARVE 10 PORTIMAO Rates i
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244 THE ALGARVE 10 PORTIMAO Monchiq
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246 THE ALGARVE 10 SILVES garden wi
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248 THE ALGARVE 10 ALBUFEIRA GOLF M
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250 THE ALGARVE 10 ALBUFEIRA Mooris
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252 THE ALGARVE 10 ALBUFEIRA atmosp
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254 THE ALGARVE 10 QUARTEIRA HAVING
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256 THE ALGARVE 10 QUARTEIRA for 20
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258 THE ALGARVE 10 ALMANCIL of Faro
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260 THE ALGARVE 10 ALMANCIL WHERE T
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262 THE ALGARVE 10 FARO 8 FARO 258k
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264 THE ALGARVE 10 FARO open onto t
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266 THE ALGARVE 10 FARO SÃO BRÁS
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268 THE ALGARVE 10 VILA REAL DE SAN
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270 THE ALGARVE 10 VILA REAL DE SAN
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272 ALENTEJO & RIBATEJO 11 TOMAR 1
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274 ALENTEJO & RIBATEJO 11 TOMAR Th
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276 ALENTEJO & RIBATEJO 11 TOMAR Tr
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278 ALENTEJO & RIBATEJO 11 ESTREMOZ
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280 ALENTEJO & RIBATEJO 11 ELVAS WH
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282 ALENTEJO & RIBATEJO 11 EVORA Av
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284 ALENTEJO & RIBATEJO 11 EVORA Ig
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286 ALENTEJO & RIBATEJO 11 EVORA co
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288 ALENTEJO & RIBATEJO 11 BEJA ESS
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290 ALENTEJO & RIBATEJO 11 VILA NOV
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12 Coimbra & the Beiras Encompassin
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294 COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS 12 LEIRIA
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296 COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS 12 FIGUEIR
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298 COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS 12 COIMBRA
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308 COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS 12 BUCACO
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310 COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS 12 CURIA R
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312 COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS 12 AVEIRO
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314 COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS 12 AVEIRO
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316 COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS 12 CARAMUL
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318 COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS 12 VISEU V
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320 COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS 12 VISEU R
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322 The city perches on a rocky gor
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324 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 PORTO Tuy-V
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326 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 FAST FACTS:
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328 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 PORTO Rua D
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330 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 PORTO Ramos
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332 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 WALKING TOU
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334 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 WALKING TOU
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336 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 PORTO Thoug
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338 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 PORTO parki
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340 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 PORTO Rua J
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342 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 PORTO cream
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344 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 PORTO lobst
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346 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 ESPINHO Man
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348 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 ESPINHO REL
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350 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 VILA DO CON
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352 PORTO & ENVIRONS 13 OFIR & FAO
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354 where grapes from vineyards on
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356 THE MINHO REGION & TRÁS-OS-MON
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380 Porto Santo has beaches and has
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382 MADEIRA ESSENTIALS MADEIRA & PO
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384 GETTING AROUND MADEIRA MADEIRA
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386 FAST FACTS: MADEIRA MADEIRA & P
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388 WHERE TO STAY IN FUNCHAL MADEIR
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396 WHERE TO DINE IN FUNCHAL MADEIR
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398 EXPLORING MADEIRA MADEIRA & POR
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404 SHOPPING IN MADEIRA MADEIRA & P
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406 MADEIRA AFTER DARK MADEIRA & PO
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408 PORTO SANTO MADEIRA & PORTO SAN
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16 Fast Facts, Toll-Free Numbers &
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416 FAST FACTS: PORTUGAL FAST FACTS
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418 FAST FACTS: PORTUGAL FAST FACTS
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420 AIRLINE, HOTEL & CAR RENTAL WEB
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422 Bar Procópio (Lisbon), 158 Bar
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424 Edgar Duarte Abreu (Braga), 361
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426 Madalena, Igreja de (Lisbon), 1
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428 Ponte de Lima, 370 Praça dos R
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430 Terreiro de Sé (Porto), 333 Te
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432 Hotel Miraparque (Lisbon), 98 H
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434 Cervejaria Brilhante (Lisbon),
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NOTES
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NOTES
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Nightlife choices in Lisbon range f
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Portugal

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