Portugal

connections can be made. The one-way fare from Lisbon to Cascais, Estoril, or Sintra is
1.80€ to 4€ per person (& 21/261-30-00; www.carris.pt).
FUNICULARS Lisbon has a trio of funiculars: the Glória, which goes from Praça dos
Restauradores to Rua São Pedro de Alcântara; the Bica, from the Calçada do Combro to
Rua da Boavista; and the Lavra, from the eastern side of Avenida da Liberdade to Campo
Mártires da Pátria. A one-way ticket on any of these costs 1.40€ (& 21/261-30-00;
www.carris.pt).
FERRY Long before the bridges across the Tagus were built, reliable ferryboats chugged
across the river, connecting the left bank with the right. They still do, and have been
rebuilt and remotorized so they’re no longer noisy. Many Portuguese who live on the
bank opposite Lisbon take the ferry to avoid the heavy bridge traffic during rush hour.
Most boats leave from Cais de Alfândega (Praça do Comércio) and Cais do Sodré,
heading for Cacilhas. The trip is worth it for the scenic views alone. Arrivals are at the
Estação do Barreiro, where trains leave about every 30 minutes for the Costa Azul and
the Algarve. Ferries depart Lisbon throughout the day about every 15 to 20 minutes; trip
time across the Tagus is 15 minutes. The cost of the continuing train ticket includes the
ferry. The separate ferry fare from the center of Lisbon to Cacilhas is .81€ (& 808/20-
30-50; www.transtejo.pt).
BY TAXI
Taxis in Lisbon tend to be inexpensive and are a popular means of transport for all but
the most economy-minded tourists. They usually are diesel-engine Mercedes. The basic
fare is 2.50€ for the first 153m (502 ft.), .10€ for each extra 162m (531 ft.), plus 20%
from 10pm to 6am. The law allows drivers to tack on another 50% to your bill if your
luggage weighs more than 66 pounds. Portuguese tip about 20% of the modest fare. For
a Rádio Táxi, call & 21/811-90-00 (www.retalis.pt).
Many visitors stay at a Costa do Sol resort hotel, such as the Palácio in Estoril or the
Cidadela in Cascais. If you stay there, you’ll probably find taxi connections from Lisbon
prohibitively expensive. Far preferable for Costa do Sol visitors is the electric train system
(see above).
BY CAR
In congested Lisbon, driving is extremely difficult and potentially dangerous—the city
has an alarmingly high accident rate. It always feels like rush hour in Lisbon. (Theoretically,
rush hours are Mon–Fri 8–10am, 1–2pm, and 4–6pm.) Parking is seemingly
impossible. Wait to rent a car until you’re making excursions from the capital. If you
drive into Lisbon from another town or city, call ahead and ask at your hotel for the
nearest garage or other place to park. Leave your vehicle there until you’re ready to
depart.
CAR RENTALS The major international car-rental companies are represented in Lisbon.
There are kiosks at the airport and offices in the center. They include Avis, Av. Praia
da Vitória 12C (& 21/351-45-60; www.avis.com), open daily from 8am to 7pm; and
Hertz, Rua Castilho 72 (& 21/381-24-30 or 21/381-24-35; www.hertz.com), open
Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm, Saturday 9am to 1pm and 2 to 7pm, and Sunday 9am
to 1pm and 3 to 7pm; Budget, Rua Castillo 167B (& 21/386-05-16; www.budget.
com), is open daily 9am to 7pm.
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SETTLING INTO LISBON 5
GETTING AROUND