Portugal

Alentejo & Ribatejo
The adjoining provinces of
Alentejo and Ribatejo constitute the heartland
of Portugal. Ribatejo is a land of
bull-breeding pastures; Alentejo is a plain
of fire and ice.
Ribatejo is river country; the Tagus,
coming from Spain, overflows its banks in
winter. The region is famed for bluegrass,
Arabian horses, and black bulls. Its most
striking feature, however, is human:
campinos, the region’s sturdy horsemen.
They harness the Arabian pride of their
horses and discover the intangible quality
of bravery in the bulls. Whether visiting
the château of the Templars, which rises
smack in the middle of the Tagus at
Almourol, or attending an exciting festa
brava, when horses and bulls rumble
through the streets of Vila Franca de Xira,
you’ll marvel at the passion of the people.
Ribatejo’s fadistas (fado singers) have long
been noted for their remarkable intensity.
The cork-producing plains of Alentejo
(which means “beyond the Tagus”) make
up the largest province in Portugal. It’s so
large that the government has divided it
into the northern Alto Alentejo (the capital
of which is Évora) and southern Baixo
Alentejo (whose capital is Beja).
Locals in Alentejo insulate themselves
in tiny-windowed, whitewashed houses—
warm in the cold winters and cool during
the scorching summers. This is the least
populated of Portuguese provinces, with
seemingly endless fields of wheat. It’s the
world’s largest producer of cork, whose
trees can be stripped only once every 9
years.
In winter, the men make a dramatic
sight, outfitted in characteristic long
brown coats with two short-tiered capes,
often with red-fox collars. The women are
more colorful, especially when they’re
working in the rice paddies or wheat
fields. Their short skirts and patterned
undergarments allow them to wade barefooted
into the paddies. On top of knitted
cowls, with mere slits for the eyes, women
wear brimmed felt hats usually studded
with flowers.
Although dusty Alentejo is mostly a
region of inland plains, it also has an
Atlantic coast. It stretches from the mouth
of the Sado River all the way to the border
of the Algarve, just south of Zambujeira
do Mar Carvalhal. This stretch of beach is
the least crowded and least developed in
Portugal. Towering rock cliffs punctuate
much of the coastline south of Lisbon,
interrupted by the occasional sandy cove
and tranquil bay. Regrettably, there isn’t
much protection from the often-fierce
waves and winds that rush in from the
Atlantic; the waters are generally too chilly
for most tastes.
Driving is the best way to see the region
because there are numerous towns to see
and excursions to take from the major cities.
Public transportation exists, but often
you’ll have a long, tiresome wait between
connections. Both provinces lie virtually
on Lisbon’s doorstep—in fact, suburbs of
the capital lie on their edges.
If you’ve just explored the Algarve (see
chapter 10), you’ll find Alentejo within
striking distance. The best route to take
into Alentejo from the south is IP-1 from
Albufeira.
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