Portugal

186
ESTORIL, CASCAIS & SINTRA
7
SINTRA: BYRON’S “GLORIOUS EDEN”
WHERE TO STAY
Very Expensive
Tivoli Palácio de Seteais This is one of the most luxurious palaces to stay
in all of Portugal. Lord Byron worked on Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage in the front garden
of this palace, which later became a hotel. Seteais looks older than it is—a Dutch Gildemeester
built it in the late 18th century. The fifth marquês de Marialva, who sponsored
many receptions and galas for the aristocrats of his day, later took over and restored the
palace.
The hotel lies at the end of a long driveway. An arched entryway dominates the formal
stone architecture. The palace is on the crest of a hill; most of its drawing rooms, galleries,
and chambers overlook the formal terraces, flower garden, and vista toward the sea.
A long hall and a staircase with white-and-gilt balustrades and columns lead to the lowerlevel
dining room, drinking lounge, and garden terraces. The library and adjoining music
room are furnished with period pieces. The main drawing room contains antiques and a
fine mural extending around the cove and onto the ceiling.
There are only 30 units, and advance reservations are necessary. The beautiful, spacious
rooms are furnished with antiques or tasteful reproductions.
Rua Barbosa do Bocage 8, Seteais, 2710-517 Sintra. & 21/923-32-00. Fax 21/923-42-77. www.tivoli
hotels.com. 30 units. 520€–680€ double; 590€–750€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; bikes; outdoor freshwater pool; room service; outdoor tennis
court (lit); free Wi-Fi in lobby. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.
Expensive
Penha Longa Hotel & Golf Resort This is the grandest resort in the
Sintra area, especially for golfers, as it offers two world-class courses designed by Robert
Trent Jones, Jr. Its recreational facilities beat all other resorts in the area—no competition
at all. Long before it became a grand hotel, the site was a retreat of royalty since the 14th
century, and it still has a landmark monastery on the grounds. The present building is a
graceful palazzo-style structure set among the rolling hills, clear lakes, and lush gardens
of the southern tier of the Sintra mountains.
The guest rooms are luxuriously furnished with private balconies opening onto panoramic
views and large marble bathrooms. Everything is here from Bulgari bath amenities
to espresso coffee machines to plush bathrobes. The most elite services are found on
the Club Level on the top floor. Five gourmet restaurants and the best spa in the area are
just part of its many attractions.
Estrada da Lagoa Azul-Malveira, 2714-511 Sintra. & 21/924-90-11. Fax 21/924-90-11. www.penhalonga.
com. 194 units. 180€–305€ double; 325€–799€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 4 bars;
babysitting; children’s center; exercise room; 2 golf courses; 2 freshwater pools (indoor and outdoor);
room service; spa; 4 outdoor tennis courts (lit); Wi-Fi (20€ per hour). In room: A/C, TV, CD player, hair dryer,
minibar.
Pestana Sintra Golf Those who want the best of both worlds—the glories
of Sintra and the beaches of Cascais—might want to lodge at one of the best equipped
hotels in the area, featuring a wide array of sports, both land and sea. The hotel also lies
close to some of the best golf courses in the area and is one of the most modern and
efficient in the area, with spacious bedrooms, tasteful furnishings, and grand comfort.
The bedrooms seem to have more extras than most we have inspected, everything from
a working desk to a shaving mirror. One aspect we especially like are the furnished balconies
opening onto views of the pool. The location is 8 kilometers (5 miles) southeast
of the center of Sintra reached along N9.