Portugal

The house is filled with art and artifacts, providing a warm, luxurious atmosphere. Of
all the accommodations, we most prefer the Dona María bedroom, with an exquisite
bedroom set of furniture, including not only the bed, but the dresser, commode, table,
and chairs. Breakfast is offered on a family-style table built in 1854 of the preciously rare
Madeira wood pau santo, or holy wood. A shared veranda and reading room are on the
second floor, and a living and dining room are downstairs. There is also a small veranda
for sunset watching.
Estrada dos Marmeleiros 89, 9050-209 Funchal, Madeira. & 29/123-53-97. www.madeira-island.com/
hotels/quintas/quintadafonte. 4 units. 77€–100€ double. No credit cards. Bus: 20, 21, 21C, 22, 23, or 26.
Amenities: Breakfast room. In room: TV, no phone.
4 WHERE TO DINE IN FUNCHAL
Many visitors to Madeira dine at their hotels, but there’s no reason you can’t sneak away
for a regional meal at one of the Funchal restaurants listed below. This list just happens
to begin with the pick of the hotel restaurants.
EXPENSIVE
Les Faunes FRENCH Try to dine at least once at Les Faunes, the island’s finest
hotel dining room, which takes its name from the series of Picasso lithographs decorating
the walls. Live piano music accompanies your meal, and winter guests often dress for
dinner, the men in black tie.
The chef offers a variety of French specialties and some typical Portuguese dishes. To
begin, you can try everything from Portuguese soup to the chef’s own smoked fish.
Favorite entrees are caldeirada (fish stew) and lobster (grilled or poached). The chef’s
special pride is swordfish with banana. You can select from the dessert cart or ask for a
hot soufflé, preferably made of passion fruit or strawberries.
In Reid’s Palace, Estrada Monumental 139. & 29/171-71-71. www.reidspalace.com. Reservations required.
Jacket and tie required for men. Main courses 17€–31€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 7–10pm. Closed in summer.
Bus: 5 or 6.
Quinta Palmeira INTERNATIONAL/PORTUGUESE The best and most
elegant restaurant in Madeira is in a beautiful country home dating from 1735. In fair
weather, a table on the spacious veranda is the most desirable on the island. Manuel Jose
da Sousa, the owner, insists on only the finest ingredients and the most talented chefs.
They concoct such dishes as tender, perfectly seasoned grilled filet of beef on toast with
Roquefort, served with Madeira wine. Among the fish selections, the curried shrimp is
excellent, and the sautéed swordfish or salmon goes perfectly with lemon and butter
sauce. Some meat dishes have island flair, appearing with regional fruit such as bananas
or passion fruit. For a refreshing change of pace, opt for the homemade avocado ice
cream for dessert.
Av. do Infante 17–19. & 29/122-18-14. Reservations required. Main courses 17€–35€. AE, DC, MC, V.
Daily 11:30am–midnight. Bus: 9, 10, 12, 16, 43, or 44.
MODERATE
Casa Madeirense INTERNATIONAL/PORTUGUESE Owner Filipe Gouveia
extends a hearty welcome and is delighted when guests enjoy his elegant regional decor
of azulejos (tiles) and hand-painted murals. His lively bar evokes a thatched-roof house
395
MADEIRA & PORTO SANTO 15
WHERE TO DINE IN FUNCHAL